I Hate Porting Heads!!

[ramcharger]

And cast iron heads are the worst!! I'm blowing rust out my nose, itch all over, my ears are ringing from the die grinder and compressor plus I have to sweep/vacuum my entire shop tommorow. The first two I/E ports are fine and really kind of fun but after that it's pure drudgery, especially with my sh!tty air compressor. Sticking a magnet in the filings is kinda cool though.

Yes, I still have a little touching up to do but they are roughed in. I guess I can only blame myself as I was only going to do a port match, then I decided to do a deep port match, then I had to do the throats and bowls. I just can't leave well enough alone.

Please everyone, stop me from polishing the chambers!

 

[805moparkid]

if i were u i would buy a set of those blue and red polishers, available at any speed shop, and use both the blue and red on Int and Exh. it won't mess up the A/F charge and will net some cfm as well...

here u go! these are them, cross buffs.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SAI-260013/

when i port a head i finish by using the course with some marvel mystery oil, then step down to the fine again with M&M oil then very fine. if ur really worried about the fuel falling out,(which i won't unless its like a mirror finish), just dont use the very fine on the intakes!

other than that looks good!

 

[ramcharger]

Thanks! They're not finished yet and as you mentioned need finishing up. This is the intake side which is pretty much done. I use a dremel buff that looks something like a scotchbrite pad on a stick, lol. They're cheap (under 4 bucks for two) and two will do an entire head easy. Oh yeah, my back is killing me too, I'm getting old.... First pic is the as cast exhaust port, second is a couple of intake ports after the buff.

 

[805moparkid]

yea looking alot better! i dn't know how much ur takin out but u could knock down the valve guide area a bit more and also use a ball style grinder bit to radius around the seat...

good luck to ya!

 

[ramcharger]

yea looking alot better! i dn't know how much ur takin out but u could knock down the valve guide area a bit more and also use a ball style grinder bit to radius around the seat...

good luck to ya!

Yeah, I already thought about the VG's but I figured enough was enough for this particular build. The buff is rated at 220 grit and will radai nicely. It's Jeep 4.0 HO I6 with MPFI (that explains the weird bump in the top of the intake port for the injector). It's really limited to about 5200 rpm anyway and my biggest concern was low lift flow. It's rated at 190 from the factory but I'd be thrilled to see 210 to 220.

 

[805moparkid]

Yeah, I already thought about the VG's but I figured enough was enough for this particular build. It's Jeep 4.0 HO I6 with MPFI (that explains the weird bump in the top of the intake port for the injector). It's really limited to about 5200 rpm anyway and my biggest concern was low lift flow. It's rated at 190 from the factory but I'd be thrilled to see 210 to 220.

yea u could get those numbers easily if u have the parts. when me and an "old timer" friend built my SL6 taught me alot! so now with a heavily ported head and a .510 cam... endless list! after some break in miles we put it on the chassis dyno for some light pulls. it was running lean on the primaries and only spun it to 5K and it pulled 180hp and 240tq! my compression isn't where i want it (9.2:1 vs 10:1) and im looking at 1.6 rockers(340 lobe, ~1.35 stock rockers=.459 vs 1.6 rollers~.544!).

so im trying to get a SL6 to 300hp as a daily driver! i get 18mpg right now!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pviXVh2Uaq0

 

[ramcharger]

Very, very cool! 180 at the wheels is an easy 206 at the crank. I'm running a new stock cam as adjustable rockers for this engine run in the $400+ range. I was looking at a Comp cam with a LSA of 113, lift at .470/.476 and duration at 206/212. I suppose I could gamble that the preload would be correct but if not, it's custom pushrods.

 

[805moparkid]

Very, very cool! 180 at the wheels is an easy 206 at the crank. I'm running a new stock cam as adjustable rockers for this engine run in the $400+ range. I was looking at a Comp cam with a LSA of 113, lift at .470/.476 and duration at 206/212. I suppose I could gamble that the preload would be correct but if not, it's custom pushrods.

thats like the cam i was looking at but my "old timer" said not even to bother! im running a .510 lift "340 lobe" [email protected] dur with a 108 LSA. i know the slants like a 104-108 LSA for most any cam. and i hate comp... JMO!

also my tq curve was amazing! i had 200tq @2500 and was climbing till i let off! she really wants to keep pulling past 5K i imagine at least 6500 but i want new rods and pistons first!

 

[DRENO]

And cast iron heads are the worst!! I'm blowing rust out my nose, itch all over, my ears are ringing from the die grinder and compressor plus I have to sweep/vacuum my entire shop tommorow. The first two I/E ports are fine and really kind of fun but after that it's pure drudgery, especially with my sh!tty air compressor. Sticking a magnet in the filings is kinda cool though.

Yes, I still have a little touching up to do but they are roughed in. I guess I can only blame myself as I was only going to do a port match, then I decided to do a deep port match, then I had to do the throats and bowls. I just can't leave well enough alone.

Please everyone, stop me from polishing the chambers!

C,mon Joe you don't hate porting heads.Isn't it nice to be back in the groove?8)

 

[ramcharger]

thats like the cam i was looking at but my "old timer" said not even to bother! im running a .510 lift "340 lobe" [email protected] dur with a 108 LSA. i know the slants like a 104-108 LSA for most any cam. and i hate comp... JMO!

also my tq curve was amazing! i had 200tq @2500 and was climbing till i let off! she really wants to keep pulling past 5K i imagine at least 6500 but i want new rods and pistons first!

I have no problem with Comp at all, although I think their power range is overestimated and their compression requirements are lower than should be. I have to run a cam with at least 112 LCA due to my fuel injection requirements. OBD1 is quite forgiving but OBD2 is a different story and OBD3 is an entirely different animal. I still have to pass emissions with this so that is another parameter I have to keep in mind.

Although both engine are essentialy I6's, our build parameters are quite different in regards to displacement, induction, rpm capability and performance requirements. I could drop in a 4.2 AMC crank and have 4.5 to 4.7 liters of displacement. My vehicle is also 4WD and needs a broad torque curve. A 108-110 LCA would be great but with FI and my emission requirements, it aint happenen', lol!

You've got a great build going on and please keep us all updated! I know that Memike will really want to know about your present build. BTW, it sounds kick ***. I've never heard a L6 lope like that before and puts the sound of a BMW E46 I posted on another thread to shame.

 

[ramcharger]

C,mon Joe you don't hate porting heads.Isn't it nice to be back in the groove?8)

I think I'm making grooves with this die grinder, lol! I forgot to mention how cold that cheapo die grinder gets after about 15 minutes of use..... 8)

And yeah brother! It's great to be back in the shop!!!!!!!!! Just wait till you see the workbench project, it's almost done!

 

[805moparkid]

I have no problem with Comp at all, although I think their power range is overestimated and their compression requirements are lower than should be. I have to run a cam with at least 112 LCA due to my fuel injection requirements. OBD1 is quite forgiving but OBD2 is a different story and OBD3 is an entirely different animal. I still have to pass emissions with this so that is another parameter I have to keep in mind.

Although both engine are essentialy I6's, our build parameters are quite different in regards to displacement, induction, rpm capability and performance requirements. I could drop in a 4.2 AMC crank and have 4.5 to 4.7 liters of displacement. My vehicle is also 4WD and needs a broad torque curve. A 108-110 LCA would be great but with FI and my emission requirements, it aint happenen', lol!

You've got a great build going on and please keep us all updated! I know that Memike will really want to know about your present build. BTW, it sounds kick ***. I've never heard a L6 lope like that before and puts the sound of a BMW E45 I posted on another thread to shame.

haha yea emissions... well im in AZ now so i have to smog mine to... 450HC at idle and 30mph roll and 5%CO at idle and 3.75%CO 30poh roll.

yea i get excited about 6's! haha and thanks for the comp on my build! i need a tranny and to finish my new diff and i mite be able to take that E45 out... maybe? 3.91 gears posi, 3K stall flash?

 

[ramcharger]

i need a tranny and to finish my new diff and i mite be able to take that E46 out... maybe? 3.91 gears posi, 3K stall flash?

On the dragstrip, yes, on the autobahn.......no. :read2:

Watch this.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DzsdSWTMug

 

[805moparkid]

that was pretty cool! i can't get on an autobahn so im in good shape! the car should be a mid 13 to high 13 sec car for now! with custom pistons and rods, and possible super lightened crank. would like to have the dart down to a 12 sec daily driver but will see.

since im thinking about it. how much does a 68 dart weight? factory buckets, 904, sl6, 9 in drums, 7.25 diff? around 3K? thx

 

[ramcharger]

that was pretty cool! i can't get on an autobahn so im in good shape! the car should be a mid 13 to high 13 sec car for now! with custom pistons and rods, and possible super lightened crank. would like to have the dart down to a 12 sec daily driver but will see.

since im thinking about it. how much does a 68 dart weight? factory buckets, 904, sl6, 9 in drums, 7.25 diff? around 3K? thx

3k + or minus 100 lbs sounds about right with a SL6. Take it to your local truck stop with a "Cat" scale and have it weighed. They don't care and I think it costs about 6 bucks.

What's really amazing is how that BMW went from 194 to 97 in about 5 or 6 seconds....

 

[805moparkid]

3k + or minus 100 lbs sounds about right with a SL6. Take it to your local truck stop with a "Cat" scale and have it weighed. They don't care and I think it costs about 6 bucks.

What's really amazing is how that BMW went from 194 to 97 in about 5 or 6 seconds....

yea helps alot tho with a 7TH GEAR!!

as far as the weight goes i took out the carpet. im looking at getting a glass hood and trunk lid. then do frame connectors with tube front end. should be pretty light!

 

[fishy68]

I know where your coming from Joe. It's exciting the first half hour because you know what the gains will get you but then the work reality sets in. I use a paint respirator to keep the crap out of my nose.

BTW: You need to polish them chambers too. Keeps down the detonation. It won't take long. I promise. LOL

A couple of yrs. back a buddy didn't have any money and wanted me to do a set of 454 heads for him for free. I looked and him and said do you realize how much work that is? He comes back with "it can't be that bad is it?" So I told him bring them over and I'd set him up with the tools and show him what to do. I kept an eye on him to make sure he was doing it right and he did real good but of course after about 2 chambers were done he realized it is very time consuming, and dirty work. He learned a new respect that day I believe.

BTW: I just bought one of the Milwaukee electric die grinders and it sure is a nice step up from the air grinder. No more fighting with the air hose. No more frozen hands in the winter. It weighs quite a bit more than a little air grinder but you get used to it and I find the extra weight helps steady it. You know how sometimes the bits will bounce. I've even broken long bits with little air grinders cause they bounced on me. At $15 a bit that ads up fast.

 

[496dart]

I learned this from a fellow mopar guy- when grinding Aluminum, dip the bit in a bar of soap every 20-30 seconds--that way the bit wont clog up

 

[darndart]

I learned this from a fellow mopar guy- when grinding Aluminum, dip the bit in a bar of soap every 20-30 seconds--that way the bit wont clog up

Eastwood has a cool thing called grinders grease that works equally well with carbide or sandpaper rolls. It keeps them from clogging up and helps keep them cool also.

 

[turbodart68]

I used to use air powered tools but I started using this Makita on a variable switch. Now I have non of the symptoms you speak of.

 

[805moparkid]

Eastwood has a cool thing called grinders grease that works equally well with carbide or sandpaper rolls. It keeps them from clogging up and helps keep them cool also.

yea i use air tool oil, Marvel Mystery oil! works great!

 

[SpeedThrills]

I used to grind cast iron when I worked at an automotive stamping die plant. A tracing/milling machine would rough out the shape of the fender, hood, whatever, from a model, then we would grind, grind, grind and, oh yeah, grind some more, for weeks. That work is done by cnc now. I would clean up and shower, by the time I got home from work, my hands were dirty again. It came out of your pores. It was in my ears, nose, everywhere. You couldn't keep it out. Really fun in the summer. Now, I rust like the tin man when I'm out in the rain! I don't miss that one bit!!!

 

[ramcharger]

yea helps alot tho with a 7TH GEAR!!

as far as the weight goes i took out the carpet. im looking at getting a glass hood and trunk lid. then do frame connectors with tube front end. should be pretty light!

Yeah, having 7 gears on the autobahn helps. :-D

I always used a full face shield it seemed to help.

Also I use a big electric grinder turns around 26,000 rpm,used to spit out carbide bits and burn up sandpaper rolls.

Bought a switch that has a variable output and slowed the beast down,speed isn't always your friend when grinding

This is the last set of aluminum heads I did,have also done quite a few sets of cast iron so I know about the metal taste in you mouth

I'm thinking about getting one of those myself. Electric I think think is the way to go. I was tasting metal for about a day.

I know where your coming from Joe. It's exciting the first half hour because you know what the gains will get you but then the work reality sets in. I use a paint respirator to keep the crap out of my nose.

BTW: You need to polish them chambers too. Keeps down the detonation. It won't take long. I promise. LOL

A couple of yrs. back a buddy didn't have any money and wanted me to do a set of 454 heads for him for free. I looked and him and said do you realize how much work that is? He comes back with "it can't be that bad is it?" So I told him bring them over and I'd set him up with the tools and show him what to do. I kept an eye on him to make sure he was doing it right and he did real good but of course after about 2 chambers were done he realized it is very time consuming, and dirty work. He learned a new respect that day I believe.

BTW: I just bought one of the Milwaukee electric die grinders and it sure is a nice step up from the air grinder. No more fighting with the air hose. No more frozen hands in the winter. It weighs quite a bit more than a little air grinder but you get used to it and I find the extra weight helps steady it. You know how sometimes the bits will bounce. I've even broken long bits with little air grinders cause they bounced on me. At $15 a bit that ads up fast.

Guys who do this for a living earn every penny, no doubt.

I learned this from a fellow mopar guy- when grinding Aluminum, dip the bit in a bar of soap every 20-30 seconds--that way the bit wont clog up

Good idea!

Eastwood has a cool thing called grinders grease that works equally well with carbide or sandpaper rolls. It keeps them from clogging up and helps keep them cool also.

Another one!

I used to use air powered tools but I started using this Makita on a variable switch. Now I have non of the symptoms you speak of.

I'm going to look for one of these soon.

I used to grind cast iron when I worked at an automotive stamping die plant. A tracing/milling machine would rough out the shape of the fender, hood, whatever, from a model, then we would grind, grind, grind and, oh yeah, grind some more, for weeks. That work is done by cnc now. I would clean up and shower, by the time I got home from work, my hands were dirty again. It came out of your pores. It was in my ears, nose, everywhere. You couldn't keep it out. Really fun in the summer. Now, I rust like the tin man when I'm out in the rain! I don't miss that one bit!!!

You'll never have to take your "1aday with Iron" now. :-D

That looks alot like my switch I bought for my sears grinder,I think I bought mine at Grainger.

Keeps the sandpaper rolls from melting and coming apart and the carbide bits from spitting out and biting me

I'll check out the local Grainger.

 

[turbodart68]

I think I bought mine at Grainger IIRC. It will change head porting for you from I hate it to it aint so bad! Still it takes a lot of time and care to properly port heads, but the good thing is a lot of people have more time than money so it makes sense to get the free HP from a good home port job. Just pay attention to the details and you will be rewarded.