I HAVE TO PUT THIS OUT THERE

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WAYNE0

WAYNE0

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I dont like bashing anyone products or give negitive reviews but I have been doing body & paint on & off for about 30 plus years. I have been doing it full time for the past 5 years. When it comes to materials i believe you get what you pay for & thats why i spend aliitle more on certain things, like putty, primers, clears, sandpaper ect. Now when it comes to mixing cups i like a good deal & ive always bought the cheapest i could find. I have been using the 5 STAR brand for some time with no issues. That is up until now. A friend of mine bought the SPI brand sealer for his car that im doing. I mixed it & sprayed it on his car just like the directions say on the can. I based it, cleared it, wet sanded & buffed it. It turned out very nice. It had some spots on the roof that i thought was dirt so i wet sanded the out. But every time i took the buffer over them they would com back. After a few times i decided to take a razor blade to on of them to see whats going on. To make this short i ended up peeling off all the base & clear. It came off in sheets. The base did not stick to the sealer. Like i said to make this short. The SPI guy told me i over reduced the sealer because the mixing ratios on the 5 STAR cups are wrong. I never had any problems the 5 STAR cups until now. This just my opinion if they are off they cant be off that much. Was it me, was it the cups, was it the sealer ?
 
I recently purchased some mixing cups off amazon for an epoxy project. The epoxy in using is a very good quality and big quantity. I bought these just to move product and stirring. When I get to the bottom of my gallon containers the bottle gets weak with the pump pressing down and the resin getting thicker due to colder temps. 1) I realize there is no 5:1 ratio chart completely missing. And 2) when I use the pump as the manufacture states for the 5:1 ratio I still measure the squirt. The cups are printed off a bit. So you may not be wrong on your cups. They are also thinner than the cups I buy for spraying automotive paint I buy from my auto body supply dealer.

If something is in the clear coat, maybe the cup has junk in it?!?
Syleng1

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Just throwing this out there....

Some 2 part or reduced products are measured by weight vs volume and it is not always a 1 to 1 volume to weight ratio.

When I worked at a Solar manufacturer we used a potent that was measured by weight.

If you mixed it by volume it would not setup.
 
That sucks I watched a guy do something like that and have to strip the whole car the next day
 
Ok it got the best of so i went & bought 2 PPG mixing cups. Every measurement i did between the PPG cups & the 5 STAR cups they all came out the same. There is no difference between the cheap 5 star & the more expensive PPG mixing cups. Like i said ive used both for many years without any issues.
 
Tell the SPI guy that ....bet he has another excuse....then another...and it will be applicator error always....
 
That mixing cup would have to be so far off to make anything remotely like this happen and it seems you would notice that while spraying. The only thing that rings a bell with this issue is someone I knew using mil-spec epoxy paint by mixing the paint and going straight into the booth to spray without giving it the necessary 20 minute activation time first. It bubbled and peeled off the primer substrate as you describe but it was obviously still wet. Gelled, not hard.
 
We have an auto body chain called TASCO near here I use some. I have their cups. I noticed last week when doing my car that the cup is more narrow at the top and he scale on the cup is obviously off. a 1:1:1 is easy to see if a mistake.

I have used SPI products for 6-7 years and never an issue BUT I only do maybe 2 cars a year of my own. I am no a pro!
 
That's what makes a person an expert > anything that can go wrong has gone wrong.

No fun when the chemical products don't work together as expected.

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Did it just peel off around the spot you saw on the roof, or was it the whole car? I use SPI epoxy primer as sealer and mix it to the thinner side of their recommendations and have never had a problem. If it just peeled around the spot on the roof, I would think it might have been some kind of contamination in that spot? If the sealer was over mixed like the SPI guy suggests, I would think the sealer would have peeled off with it when you layed the razor blade to it. Bad deal either way, to have to redo it. :(
 
The base & clear peeled off the car in small sheets. The whole car. I had both quarters & & sail panels striped in less than 10 min.
 
Sounds like the primer sealer was sprayed on then the basecoat/clearcoat was applied 3 months later when the prime coat was rock hard, no adhesion between the primer and paint.

Usually like 4 hours max dry time on the primer sealer coat before you have to sand it again to get adhesion with the next coat.

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George Jets said:
Sounds like the primer sealer was sprayed on then the basecoat/clearcoat was applied 3 months later when the prime coat was rock hard, no adhesion between the primer and paint.

Usually like 4 hours max dry time on the primer sealer coat before you have to sand it again to get adhesion with the next coat.

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Nope the can said wait 30 minutes then then then the base coat. It seamed ode to me because all the other sealer ive used said to wait 10-15 minutes before the base coat.
 
I have a friend that built an airplane out of fiberglass. A few years after it was painted, he took a credit card and stripped all of the clear coat off, it never bonded right with th base. Stay with products you know, sucks that you even have to keep an eye on those.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I have a friend that built an airplane out of fiberglass. A few years after it was painted, he took a credit card and stripped all of the clear coat off, it never bonded right with th base. Stay with products you know, sucks that you even have to keep an eye on those.
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Ye i hear ya
 
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