I need your input, sorry, not Mopar related

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70DartMike

Too many projects
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Alright, my dad gave me his 75 Ford F250, big block 390, before he passed away. It leaks oil, BAD, as in I drove from Grand Forks BC to Vancouver Island BC, and went through 19 liters of oil.. Constantly pulling over and checking it and filling it again. I never once ran it dry, or ran it hot.
Anyways, I work out of town, in another province infact, and only get a week off at a time, so not much time to tear into this thing. So a friend and his dad own a lot with some buildings, and one of the buildings is rented out to a mechanic who says he specializes in 4x4 stuff. He has a bad history of paying rent, so instead, owes them a certain amount of hours worked on their vehicles each month for rent. They had about 10 extra hours last month, so told Toby (the mechanic) to fix my oil leak. The previous mechanics that my dad used, tried 3 times to replace the rear main seal, but couldn't get it. Turns out they cut it in half to get it in, and filled the gaps with RTV. They also used RTV instead of a pan gasket.
Toby had my truck for 2 months, and didn't fix it. Instead, he pulled the pan off, and let it sit. He pulled one of the main bearings, and found it shows a bit of copper. When my friend and his dad realized Toby hadn't worked on it at all, they threatened to kick him out if he didn't have it finished by the time I got home, which was Feb 1. He panicked, and put it in on Jan 31. I was so excited to have it again, I drove it into town, and it started spewing oil again, just ad bad. So my friend's dad is convinced that Toby can still fix it, so got me to leave it at the shop once again while I'm at work. So now, Toby thinks the crank is out of balance, is wobbling, and is ripping apart the rear main. He wants to have the crank milled, replace the bearings, and redo the rear main.

First question, am I wrong to think that maybe it is just the rear main again, that maybe he f*cked it up by rushing it?

Second.. If it is infact the crank, how common is that? And how much $$ am I looking at spending to get it done?

Third.. Give me advice here. The truck means a lot to me, as it meant a lot to my dad. I don't know what to do, and being up here working and not at home, means I can't do a whole lot..
 
Here is what you need 1. Gaskets and seals 2. A friend or two over a weekend 3. Beer and BBQ. Its not hard at all to replace a rear main in a 390. Tons of room in that engine bay.

Stay away from the moron "mechanic".
 
found this in another forum

(assuming crank is in top condition)use a neoprene lip seal at rear main seal. ensure the little pin in main cap that held rope style seal in place is removed and seal the little hole left by it. fit neoprene seal with lip facing in to sump and fit it staggered in the block/cap by about 1/4" in direction of engine rotation. lube the seal well or it will burn on fisrt start. apply small ammount of gasket sealer to block/cap mating face and torque to spec. now! fit rubber strip seals between sides of block and cap, first put a dab of rtv sealer on end of strip, measure strips and block depths to ensure strips are in all the way. now fit steel pins between block and strip and trim off any excess rubber. now your rear main wont leak. also, check all the gallery plugs and cam plug in back of block to ensuse no leaks there either.
 
Sounds like the truck is important to you so don't let that lazy non bill paying SOB get his hands back on it at any price, payed by you, OR your friends.

Like it or not the oil leaks are just symptomatic of the real problem, basically lack of knowledge, poor work ethic, and lousy craftsmanship. Idiot mechanics will, not if, cost you a motor.

The only way to even begin knowing where you are at, is to pull the pan and rear main cap, throw a dial indicator on the rear main, and spin the motor. I personally wouldn't feel comfortable with anything less than taking the motor to a well equipped, reputable machine shop and have them mic the crank and check it for straightness. Don't forget to have the crank to block endplay checked too, because a bad thrust bearing, or out of spec thrust bearing faces on the crank can be a cause of the rear main seal leaking. Have them check the line bore of the main bearing saddles while they've got it apart, too. Even if they didn't find anything wrong but poorly installed seals and gaskets, at least you'd know, and could have them properly put it back together, although at that point it might be cost effective to overhaul at least the short block.

Just make sure to find someone you really trust to work on it if you can't or just don't have the time to tear it apart yourself.
 
Sounds like the truck is important to you so don't let that lazy non bill paying SOB get his hands back on it at any price, payed by you, OR your friends.

Like it or not the oil leaks are just symptomatic of the real problem, basically lack of knowledge, poor work ethic, and lousy craftsmanship. Idiot mechanics will, not if, cost you a motor.

The only way to even begin knowing where you are at, is to pull the pan and rear main cap, throw a dial indicator on the rear main, and spin the motor. I personally wouldn't feel comfortable with anything less than taking the motor to a well equipped, reputable machine shop and have them mic the crank and check it for straightness. Don't forget to have the crank to block endplay checked too, because a bad thrust bearing, or out of spec thrust bearing faces on the crank can be a cause of the rear main seal leaking. Have them check the line bore of the main bearing saddles while they've got it apart, too. Even if they didn't find anything wrong but poorly installed seals and gaskets, at least you'd know, and could have them properly put it back together, although at that point it might be cost effective to overhaul at least the short block.

Just make sure to find someone you really trust to work on it if you can't or just don't have the time to tear it apart yourself.

I agree . If it means that much to you. Take it to qualified shop have it torn down, balance the crank. It may cost alittle more but probably no more then being nickle and dimed to death and the work will be garanteed.
 
first I agree to keep it away from the idiot that tried to fix it. a good mechanic won't cut corners, do it once and do it right..! next if you cut a seal in half, it's gonna leak....! putting in a new quality seal will probably fix it along with a pan gasket, the other side is the rear crank journal which the seal rides on might be worn down and keep leaking. they might have a repair sleve for it to avoid replacing the crank, but if the bearing are showing wear it might be a good time to to replace the crank and bearing along with the seals and gaskets, that way you will know what you have. has the timing chain ever been replaced? good luck and be safe....:happy6:
 
Today's update. Basically the only information I have, is from what my friend Kailan is telling me. He is trusted, I've known him half my life, and I live with him. Anyways, I called today, and said 'I don't trust Toby doing any work on the truck, could you just drive it back to the house?' He tells me that he went there today to check it out, and Toby had already taken the hood off, disconnected all electrical, plumbing, and unbolted from tranny. Has the hoist hooked up, and ready to pull. He was going to pull it today, or tomorrow morning, and check to see if he screwed up the rear main seal. Then wants to check the crank/bearings to see if they're the problem. I told Kailan to tell Toby, I want him to put the engine back in afterwards, hook it all back up, so I can take it elsewhere. Toby also said to Kailan, 'Uhh, so is Mike getting annoyed with the truck yet? Like would he want to sell the truck?' and Kailan responded with 'Don't even effing go there' .. This guy is such a rat.
 
If you have to buy any major parts, verify that it actually a 390 first. If it's the original engine and factory 4x4, I'll bet it's a 360.
 
I agree with everyones opinion on here. With getting the truck home and outta that shop. There has to be someone reputable you can take it to. Good luck!! Maybe get the landlord to swing by seeing they are your friends and make sure he's putting it back together properly
 
Make sure the leak is actually coming from the rear main before tearing into it, you'll see oil streaks on the flywheel. It could be leaking from a valve cover or the back of intake manifold. If it turns out to be the rear main seal put a rope seal in it, these will seal just about anything. While the pan is off I would throw a set of bearings in it as well.
 
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