I really need help!!!!

[scampy72]

please help me figure this out you gurus. my /6 is not running right at all. it is really rough at idle and will just shut itself off when you hit the brakes in drive. i can tell that the choke is not closing, could this be the problem if so how do i fix it? also just found that there is a hole in my brake line, is there anything in the car that would shut down the engine if the brakes dont work? please help me fix this!!! this is my daily driver and i need iot for work.

thanks
marc

 

[damnimcooltom]

The first thing that comes to mind when you say that it dies when you press the brakes would be a vacuum leak in the power brakes. Does the car have power brakes? If you unhook the vacuum line to the booster and plug it at the carb, does the engine run better?

 

[2 Darts]

please help me figure this out you gurus. my /6 is not running right at all.

Did this start happening all of a sudden? Or has it come on gradually? Any recent repairs/improvements made?

it is really rough at idle and will just shut itself off when you hit the brakes in drive.

Assuming no vacuum leak, check electrical grounds. Also check to see if carb float and fuel shut-off are working properly. If float goes up and sticks, fuel to engine is shut off and engine quits running.

i can tell that the choke is not closing, could this be the problem if so how do i fix it?

Probably not. Should be open if engine is at operating temperature. If you notice black smoke from tail pipe at idle, then maybe a choke opening problem.

also just found that there is a hole in my brake line, is there anything in the car that would shut down the engine if the brakes dont work?

The key??? You won't lock up the transmission or steering just by turning off the key. If you put it in park while moving and turn off the key, big problems. If service brakes don't work, use the hand brake. Twist and pull. If rears start to lock push in. It is easier to modulate the rear brakes if you don't pull the handle out straight without twisting it. Suggest practice in a large, empty parking lot so you'll know what to expect. Start idle speed and work up, unless you're into thrill seeking.

 

[Wheel Chock]

You say that there is a hole in your brake line, which line, hydraulic or does the car have power brakes and you have ahole in the vacuum line to the booster?

 

[scampy72]

no power brakes. hole in the hose to the drum.

 

[Gnome]

Assuming no vacuum leak, check electrical grounds. Also check to see if carb float and fuel shut-off are working properly. If float goes up and sticks, fuel to engine is shut off and engine quits running.

+1

maybe the carb is missing the float baffle that keeps it from sloshing around?

 

[scampy72]

let me just say this. it ran fine three weeks ago. i went to school came home during the weekend when it got really cold up here in ny and then it was not working, right. i did have to put a new muffler on the car recently but again it ran fine after that and now nothing. does this mean i have to rebuild the carb? if so where can i get a kit to rebuild a one barrel?
thanks again
-marc

 

[Gnome]

if you have a carquest up near you they use standard products (reboxed) it is supposed to be a good product. thats what i used for my bbd...so far so good. or if you dont, look for standard hygrade carb kits.

since it was cold i would first look to see why the choke is not closing. is the linkage moving freely? is the thermostatic choke pushing it closed when it's cold? is the choke pull off keeping the choke open? (unplug the vacuum line and see if it closes) or unhook it, it may be frozen, if so replace it. the brake system is unrelated since you do not have a power booster.

 

[Nick M.]

Are you running a points type ignition system? if so may be time for a new set, or at least an adjustment.. Might be worth a look

 

[66aCUDA]

I would see if you can order a Walker rebuild kit. I am not happy with the parts store kits. They are getting cheaper and cheaper.
Frank

 

[scampy72]

ok thanks for the info guys, ill look into those points too. i dont think ill go for a new ignition cause i just got a 440 that should be going in over the winter so im not planning on putting too much money into the slant just yet.

 

[jwyp]

please help me figure this out you gurus. my /6 is not running right at all. it is really rough at idle and will just shut itself off when you hit the brakes in drive. i can tell that the choke is not closing, could this be the problem if so how do i fix it? also just found that there is a hole in my brake line, is there anything in the car that would shut down the engine if the brakes dont work? please help me fix this!!! this is my daily driver and i need iot for work.

thanks
marc

Hi,
I'm late to this, so probably you have figured out the problem. If so, I'm curious. I was having a similar problem (minus the brake issue) last year, where the car was rough and cutting out sometimes when I came to a full stop. It improved after I had the choke adjusted (also following a cold snap after a hot summer) and got a new set of points, plus condenser and coil. Recently, a year later, the roughness started again, and the cutting out. Again the quick fix was adjusting the points, which had got so that they were barely opening. So now my car is running well, though I think there's a more deep-seated problem, because something is causing the points to tighten up and wear out/burn out quicker than they should. Our problems may be totally different, but that's my experience for what it's worth, and if you've found a solution to yours I'm interested.

 

[IndianaDodge]

Condenser...Sounds like my /6 when condenser goes bad! For what ever reason my /6 seems to eat them like candy! cheap fix if thats what it is! I keep an extra set of points and condenser in glovebox!

 

['64 Cuda]

Hi,
I'm late to this, so probably you have figured out the problem. If so, I'm curious. I was having a similar problem (minus the brake issue) last year, where the car was rough and cutting out sometimes when I came to a full stop. It improved after I had the choke adjusted (also following a cold snap after a hot summer) and got a new set of points, plus condenser and coil. Recently, a year later, the roughness started again, and the cutting out. Again the quick fix was adjusting the points, which had got so that they were barely opening. So now my car is running well, though I think there's a more deep-seated problem, because something is causing the points to tighten up and wear out/burn out quicker than they should. Our problems may be totally different, but that's my experience for what it's worth, and if you've found a solution to yours I'm interested.

Don't know how many miles you're putting on your car but in the old days points needed to be checked & adjusted a lot more than once a year.

 

[62lancer]

All the points you buy are now made in CHINA---the rubbing block wears out rapidly--make sure you put some cam lube on the back side of the cam on the points--this will make them last longer.