I would really like to know

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trudysduster

trudysduster

FABO Gold Member
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what is going on with this tranny mount situation in my 1976 Duster. I found out Tuesday that the new Anchor tranny mount I put in less than 100 miles ago is bad. The rubber has separated and the insert is moving up and down. must have done that when I launched it last week. I had a problem awhile back trying to get one to fit. I had to wind up buying an insert to press in my old mount because the new mount would not fit. parts house calls for an Anchor part # 2512 for a lot of Mopar cars and trucks. I put an insert Anchor part # 2525 in my old mount and it didn't last. I just ordered a new poly mount from Summit racing and it came in this morning. part # is 4-1603. looks good and sturdy. but it will not fit . it has the same bolt pattern as the Anchor # 2512 mount does. pics below shows the new mount and old mount. the bolt pattern is not going to bolt up. So I just ordered a poly bushing kit for the old mount. part # 5-1101G by Energy Suspensions. BUT I would still like to know what mount fits this car. I have spme other pics here that shows the x member that is in the car. Is this the correct x member for a Duster or is it possible that the tail shaft on this 727 is different than other tail shafts and the bolt pattern is different. if you look at the one pic of the mounts side by side you can see that the one with slots is what the book calls for and the black mount without slots is what is in it that fits the car. has anyone had this problem or can someone shed some light on this problem. I have checked a lot of Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth vehicles and some trucks and come up with the # 2512 mount as the right fit. Thanks,Bill
 

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no one has any idea what the problem with these 2 mounts is or what my mount is off of.
 
I have never seen a trans mount on any A,B,C or E body that wasn't slotted. That black mount may be a truck mount. The poly mount is the correct one. Is the car a big block conversion that had the motor mounts on the K-frame fabricated?
 
Looking thru your history of post's, I see a pattern here. It looks like the drivetrain is in the wrong location, front to rear. Your driveshaft, pinion angle and vibration posts lead me to this assumption.
 
I can't help you much on the spool style mount. Not that familiar with them. However I am wondering for conversation how the BB was adapted to the mounts for the engine. It appears from your mount pictures that if the engine mounts on the block are on the wrong side of the cast ears on the block it would be enough to move the trans and mount assy. From the pictures if the engine mounts are on the back of the ears that would move the whole engine and trans assy forward whatever the thickness of the ears are. If that makes sense.
 
Dubob said:
I can't help you much on the spool style mount. Not that familiar with them. However I am wondering for conversation how the BB was adapted to the mounts for the engine. It appears from your mount pictures that if the engine mounts on the block are on the wrong side of the cast ears on the block it would be enough to move the trans and mount assy. From the pictures if the engine mounts are on the back of the ears that would move the whole engine and trans assy forward whatever the thickness of the ears are. If that makes sense.
Click to expand...

I think he does have an engine mount location problem. We need pictures!
 
Mope, you may be on to something. I am going to check to see if the engine mounts are in right. I did check the mounts to see if they were on the right side but didn't check to see if the mounts were in the right location on the ears. Dumb question here. If the engine driveline is in the wrong location such as on the wrong side of the ears, would this cause a vibration. So basically I need to make sure the mounts are on the back side of the ears and that should move the engine/tranny back enough so that the right mount would bolt up. yeah, that makes sense. will definitely check this out and take some pics if I can get some.
 
can anyone post a pic of what the mounts look like in the proper location on the ears. I remember something that it would only mount one way, but not sure if that was on this BB motor or on Tylers SB motor. Oh man, I hate to think of moving this drivetrain back if that is the problem.
 
thanks Dubob. I will look at this tomorrow when I get up and running. It makes sense. I put Tylers Dart Sport together and it had the same mount as the one that is supposed to work for mine. It had the same mount on the 904 and it stayed the same when we put the 4 speed in his. no problems. But I didn't put this car together. A guy who I thought was my friend screwed me 13 years ago on this. I was running 48 states with a semi and he wanted me to get a car to run at the drag strip with him. Bought this Duster and it had a /6 in it. Bought the 440 and the deal was that I took my dually and enclosed trailer up to Michigan above Grand Rapids and bring back a 1966 Dart that he had bought as his sons first car and he would put my motor together and I supplied all new parts. I didn't have time to baby sit him being on the road and this is what I got. I trusted him and I got screwed. this may explain a lot of what my problems has been for a long time. I decided after the engine was done that I didn't want to beat it to death on the track so I started rebuilding it for show. I will know more about it tomorrow. where are you in Ohio. Thanks,Bill
 
Work in Cinci, live southwest of Wilmington. Let us know what you discover.
 
ok guys, here it is. I took pics of the mounts where they bolt to the ears on the block. according to the link that Dubob posted up there for the Schumacher conversion, these are in the right place. what do you think. As thick as the front ears are on the block, if the mount was to go in front of the ears allowing the drivetrain to move back, I am almost inclined to believe I may have the opposite problem back there. I only need about 1/2" and wouldn't that put the driveline too far back. what do you guys think here. I checked the numbers before on the moror mounts and they correspond to being on the right side.

first pic is pass. side
 

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no one has answered this question for me yet. IF this driveline is 1/2" too far forward that the correct mount will not work, as long as I have a good mount in place and the pinion and tranny angles are correct, would this cause a vibration.
 
The mounts look correct. What about where the K-frame was modified? And did you start with the correct K-frame? pic's?
 
I changed the k frame to a v8 K frame. I remember because I cost me $350.00. it was not modified.I still go back to my earlier questions. do they make different tailshafts for a 727. some say that the mount looks like a truck mount. will a truck mount go in here on an a body. If the engine mounts are correct, the driveline has to be in the right place if the k frame is right. that almost puts me back at the tranny mount- x member area wouldn't it. also, I have not heard from anyone yet whether or not if the mount I am using now is working and the pitches on the tranny and rearend are in specs, would it matter or make a vibration. I just got my poly bushings in and going to mount them in the old mount and see what that does. Thanks,Mope
 
Bill, in your pictures of the mounts it looks like they have maybe a Mopar p/n on them. If so and the k frame did not have the saddles cut and relocated like the Mopar DC k frame it's possible to have a couple of issues. To modify the k frame Jim Lusk has some videos on you tube but the jest of it is the saddles are moved aft 13/16 on passenger and 1 13/16 drivers. As far as 727 they did make a short tail shaft for trucks but it was very short so the rest are all the same. This link shows some pictures of how the saddles are modified
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/dck.shtml
There will be a "gap" on the forward side of the saddle and the stand off where it mounts. Pretty easy to identify. My thoughts are that if the engine was mounted with oem mounts and the K frame wasn't modified that the engine is too far forward and may be twisted laterally with the rest of the car (front of engine compared to tail shaft of transmission). It may turn out you need to buy the Schumacher mounts to adapt it so the engine is sitting where it should if the saddles are stock. Could it cause a drive line vibe? It's very possible in my opinion.


Here's another article here on FABO that there is some discussion about using the stock mounts and unmodified k frame. Hopefully help you out some too.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=280512&highlight=Modified+engine+mounts

Just trying to give you as much information as I can. Hate to see people get frustrated with things.
 
Dubob said:
Bill, in your pictures of the mounts it looks like they have maybe a Mopar p/n on them. If so and the k frame did not have the saddles cut and relocated like the Mopar DC k frame it's possible to have a couple of issues. To modify the k frame Jim Lusk has some videos on you tube but the jest of it is the saddles are moved aft 13/16 on passenger and 1 13/16 drivers. As far as 727 they did make a short tail shaft for trucks but it was very short so the rest are all the same. This link shows some pictures of how the saddles are modified
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/dck.shtml
There will be a "gap" on the forward side of the saddle and the stand off where it mounts. Pretty easy to identify. My thoughts are that if the engine was mounted with oem mounts and the K frame wasn't modified that the engine is too far forward and may be twisted laterally with the rest of the car (front of engine compared to tail shaft of transmission). It may turn out you need to buy the Schumacher mounts to adapt it so the engine is sitting where it should if the saddles are stock. Could it cause a drive line vibe? It's very possible in my opinion.




Here's another article here on FABO that there is some discussion about using the stock mounts and unmodified k frame. Hopefully help you out some too.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=280512&highlight=Modified+engine+mounts

Just trying to give you as much information as I can. Hate to see people get frustrated with things.
Click to expand...

I think we have a winner! Those are not Schumacher mounts. The stock V8 K-frame must be modified by moving the tabs the exact amount that you are off when using the correct trans mount.(gold one).
 
Now your problems start. Your exhaust is the wrong length, your drivshaft may be wrong, and all the work you did checking the pinion angles will have to be done all over again after you get the engine in the correct place, either by pulling the k-frame and performing the cut and relocate or buying Schumacher conversion mounts.
 
I am very grateful that you may have found the problem, but damn, how about some good news. so you are saying that all I have to do is buy the Schumacher mounts and that will allow the engine to move back the distance I need to use the correct mount.....right. I can take up the distance in the exhaust, not a problem. Driveshaft being cut is nothing. pulling the k frame would not be too much of a problem as in a couple of weeks the car show end and I intend on pulling the drivetrain anyway and going through the engine and while it is out, we are painting the car over the winter but I like the Schumacher mounts anyway. its easier.
 
well, here is where I am at right now. car is up on jack stands, pretty level. I replaced the insert on the old mount with poly bushings. tranny mount is back up in plce. I pulled the drive shaft out and re checked the angles. I havr about a pos. 2 on the tranny at the back of the spline and I have about a neg. 2-3 on the rearend at the flat part where the straps bolt in. Tonight, we are going to install the Lokar tranny kickdown. do you think I will be alright for a couple of weeks with this. Bill
 

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hey Mope, do you by any chance have the part # of the Schumacher mounts I would need to get this engine back like it should be and will those Schumacher mounts square the motor like it should be. Thanks,Bill
 
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