Idle problem need help

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Swaped everything from my brothers engine(which runs perfectly, plugs are clean on his engine) to mine and it still does the same thing! I am getting real frustrated with this problem. What else could it be. I've tried everything that I can think of. Plus with everything off of my brothers engine my plugs are still fouling out. Has out of the box 600cfm Eddy performer.
 
Did you clean your old fouled plugs or put in fresh ones? Are the plugs oil fouled or gasoline fouled? Post a picture of the plugs.

Pull the dipstick and smell the oil. Oil level higher than before? Does it smell like gasoline?

Hard to do this stuff over the net.
 
I replaced just two plugs #2&4 cylinder with new plugs just for quicker testing. The plugs are not fouling with any fluids they are getting covered with black sooty powder. Oil level is fine any does'nt have abnormal smell to it. Will try and post a pic of the plugs tomorrow b/c is at my work place.
 
this is a weird one. did you disconnect the brake booster (if you have one) it could be leaking intertnally. also you said the engine was just rebuilt, were the heads or deck of the block milled? the intake could be sealing on the top but leaking underneath.
 
If the plugs were fouled, you really need to replace them. You won't likely get the engine to run right with a bunch of dead plugs in it.
 
Well, obviously you are running a bit rich. I'm assuming that the choke is in good working order.

I had a similar problem and switched my vacuum advance line to the untimed port, and that cured it. Might want to try it. But check the choke too. New doesn't mean it's working right.
 
I did not disconnect the brake booster hose which I should have done. Neither the heads or block were machined when I sent them to the machine shop. Will change the plugs and cap off the booster hose tommorow and see whats happens.
 
Replaced my plugs today and guess what I found out. Cylinder 6 & 8 wires were swapped! Also found out that my idle mixture screws were turned almost all the way counterclockwise. Turned them in all the way and backed them out 3 turns and drove it for about 30 mins and pulled a plug clean as a whistle w/ a slight brownish tint to them. Runs like a scalded dog but still the rpms drop about 500 rpms when put in gear. Same thing with the brake booster hose capped off. Also a note I don't run a choke on the carb.
 
Try setting your idle to 750 with the vacuum advance set on the other vacuum port, either your engine will speed up when you plug it in to the other port or not change at all. If it speeds up then lower the idle speed to 750 and try putting it in gear. See if that helps.
There are two ports, one timed and one ported. My car had this same problem but I can't remember which one I switched from and put it to. But it made a world of difference.
 
I mentioned this in my response above. The timed port is for emmissions controlled engines. The untimed port is for non-controlled engines. Use the non-timed port and set your timing before connecting the hose (block the hose off at the distributor end before setting the timing to stop a vacuum leak). The brake booster hose doesn't effect the timing so you can leave it connected. Once timed, reconnect the hose and set your idle speed. All cars drop some idle speed when set into gear.
 
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