If I want to strip my car to the metal..... what do you recommend?

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sazzlefrats

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I started a little bit with my wirewheel... I stripped the tailight panel and part of the trunk, ground my wheel to bitz, and couldn't get a replacement. I want something that'll strip a little faster I think.

What about buying a media blaster kit? I need a compressor too right? How do I keep the mess down? And how cheaply can I do this?
 
media blasting will work could also use aircraft grade paint remover or sand it down there are many ways to do it all are messy some worse than others .
i media blasted a buddies car in his garage before i did it i built a enclosure out of 1x2 boards i had laying around and a roll of plastic that did pretty good at keeping the mess to one area and if i ran out of media i just grabbed a broom and swept the floor and put it all back in the bucket
 
aircraft stripper is great stuff, but it is very caustic, and the chemicals used in it have to be disposed of properly. this is nasty stuff. i prefer to mechanically strip with a DA sander and 80 grit sandpaper, then switch to 180 grit to smooth the metal, then primer it, smaller parts i use a media blaster, however if you want to strip it chemically theres some precautions you should follow to avoid injuries to yourself or problems with your bodywork and paint later

to begin with, this stuff is straight up nasty. it will eat plastics, fiberglass, body filler, rubber, and your skin, so cover up your hands with more than just latex gloves, as it will eat those in a flash. get some cheap chemical resistant gloves that you can throw away. wear a face shield or at the very least safety goggles, avoid safety glasses as this stuff can splash underneath and get into your eyes. however if safety glasses are all you have they are better than nothing, (USE THEM).

also aircraft stripper can be left behind in small rust pits in the body sheetmetal when stripping the car body. sometimes like when you have rust pits under chrome trim and such. if the stripper is not thoroughly neutralized, and removed from these pitted areas, within weeks or months after your new paint job is on, the paint will start to bubble off in these areas, if you didnt remove or neutralize all the stripper. if you apply stripper in an area on the body you thought was smooth metal, and you come across a previous body filler repair, dont try to "save it" remove all the filler as the stripper has now contaminated it, this area will bubble up under new paint if you try to save the old filler repair.

after you have clean stripped a panel use lots of soapy water and a scrub brush to scrub and flush all the excess stripper from the panel, then use a mixture of baking soda and water to scrub the panel to neutralize what stripper the soap and water missed, the baking soda is key to this step. then rinse the panel with water again and thoroughly dry. at this time prime the panel quickly to prevent flash rust from starting.

i use this stuff as an aircraft structural mechanic quite often. i actually hate it. if left on aluminum this stuff will eventually eat it. this is why we use all the precautions. plus if any dry stripper is left behind it will over time cause new paint to bubble as it reacts with it. we dont strip paint completely off of our aircraft by sanding as the skins are anodized under the primer, and we dont want this coating damaged. only time we use a sander on our aircraft is when we do a scuff and repaint where the paint isnt completely removed prior to repainting. all the hazards and issues with aircraft stripper is probably why i prefer to sand strip to bare metal the old paint on any car body im redoing.

as far as using the chemical stripper the other posts probably have that covered, a big box of steel wool on a steel car body also works along with plastic scrapers for getting the old paint off.


hope this helps
matt
 
moparmat is right on with the advice. Only thing I would add is especially if the stripper has methylene chloride. Works great but real bad stuff. I used it a lot for stripping also on parts of fuse panels from aircraft. Matt, ever hear of Eclipse or Aerodur? And do not use heat at all, you want to avoid getting the steel hot, metal will warp if not careful.
 
we used to use an aerodur brand primer on our fleet of SAAB 340B's years ago, it was a bit of a pain as SAAB aircraft required a specific fluid resistant wash primer against the metal, then a second coat of a different epoxy primer, then back to a 3rd coat of the original fluid resistant wash primer at which time then you could apply color top coats. flash time was 1 hour between coats minimum required.

we fly Embraer 145 LR's now, and our coatings are sourced from Akzo Nobel. our epoxy primer is a 1 to 1 mix and once its thoroughly dry its hard to remove even with the strippers.
 
I use aircraft stripper and 80 on a DA for tighter areas. yes, it is nasty but it is also fast and efficient and will get you 90%.
I use newspapers to catch droppings. I do hood and trunk off car. The sides are easy just tape off jams, holes, and gaps to keep the stripper out. I do the cowl and most of roof with a DA.
I roll up the stripper soaked news paper to contain it. I wipe to metal down with lacquer thinner.
 
I know i can be long winded, but i prefer to give more info than less. i dont know if this guy knew all the ins and outs and hazards of using chemical stripper. Wouldent you rather know everything about a hazardous product you intend to use? I know i would. Maybe he doesnt know this stuff will mess up plastic or rubber etc. Plus if its not neutralized thoroughly over time it will eat back thru your new paint job.

I have used this stuff a long time in the aircraft industry. I would not just tell someone to use it without giving them all the information and recommendations especially something as badnasty as this stuff.

Matt
 
How much of the car do you want to do? If its 100% you could have it tank stripped, I used a company called Redi-Strip in my area.

Quote: "And how cheaply can I do this?" Redi-strip is about $1800.00 to do the whole car. Just depends on how much you want to do yourself and how deep your pockets are.

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I recently read a tip on here, that while using a chemical paint stripper, cover the area with saran wrap after applying the stripper to allow the chemical to remove more paint before drying out.
 
A buddy of mine poured brake fluid all over the car and squeegeed the paint off. I stripped my Charger with no chemicals at all. Lot of sand paper.
 
If it isn't absolutely necessary...why strip the car to begin with? Sure if there's rust, bondo, etc. all will be revealed, but what better primer than paint that's been on a car for years? Chemical stripping is "FOUL!" Just a thought, as stripping opens-up a whole new can of worms, & no matter where, and/or how you strip to bare metal, primers too thin will allow the metal to rust again in a hurry. If you're not planning "Concours Restoration"...go the cheaper, & less labor intensive/cost route!
Just my two cents.
Regards,
AL :)
 
I agree, if the old finish isnt cracked or crazed use it as a base for a repaint. If its already been repainted once sand it back to original finish, or sand it back to metal. I have no choice but to sand mine to bare metal, as its got surface rust on top, and peeling paint on the sides. Was original finish no repaint.
 
If you have one available, an 8" orbital sander (bondo buster) works better than a smaller DA sander. Creates less heat and works faster.
 
Razor blade scraper, then a d a sander.

X2 couldn't agree more. I am doing my car and that is exactly what I do. The razor blade takes off all the paint and a da with 180 removes all the rest. No chemical to burn your hands, melt plastic and make a mess. No neutralizing acids or other caustic materials just paint flakes and dust.
 
Based on the time I did it (with chemical stripper), I'd recommend hiring someone else to do it! ;-)
 
All rite u peaked my interest ,that 4x4 dart looks awesome !!!
What kind of chassis is under that thing ?? I used 80 grit
Blue disk and a orbital to take my 64 polara to bare metal
 
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