If you’re going to buy a puller….

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like_A_pike

like_A_pike

that's not factory
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Which one would you say has the most applications for our A bodies? Meaning, do you have one that is your go to for tie rod ends but can pinch hit in multiple other jobs too? you’ve abused it for years and it’s still working fine.

Thanks
 
like_A_pike said:
Which one would you say has the most applications for our A bodies? Meaning, do you have one that is your go to for tie rod ends but can pinch hit in multiple other jobs too? you’ve abused it for years and it’s still working fine.

Thanks
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pickle fork. seriously, that's the only one that'll stand the test of time and abuse.

one like this style will work, but expect to break it on the lower ball joints.

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if you're not doing the work day in day out, buy this set:


it'll do everything you need and the price isn't bad.
 
A hammer to the side of the boss the stud goes thru will normally release the stud from the boss. No special tool required. Loosen the nut and leave it on the last couple of threads to prevent it from completely dropping out and give a couple of wacks to the side of the boss and the taper should release. Pickle forks will damage the boots. Do not hit on the stud itself.
 
junkyardhero said:
one like this style will work, but expect to break it on the lower ball joints
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If used properly they will last your life used infrequently.

Use it to apply pressure, no impact. Then place a hammer on one side of the knuckle and give a light tap to the other side.

No need to go all medieval on it.

light heat can help too.

Throw the pickle fork in the trash.
 
Dana67Dart said:
If used properly they will last your life used infrequently.

Use it to apply pressure, no impact. Then place a hammer on one side of the knuckle and give a light tap to the other side.

No need to go all medieval on it.

light heat can help too.

Throw the pickle fork in the trash.
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me caveman. me break tools.

you'll pry my pickle fork from my cold dead hands.
 
oh and for clarity, it was the hinge pin that snapped on that thing. replaced with a grade 8 bolt and it's been fine since.

i, however, remain a hamfisted neanderthal.
 
bcschief said:
A hammer to the side of the boss the stud goes thru will normally release the stud from the boss. No special tool required. Loosen the nut and leave it on the last couple of threads to prevent it from completely dropping out and give a couple of wacks to the side of the boss and the taper should release. Pickle forks will damage the boots. Do not hit on the stud itself.
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I rigged this up to apply pressure and then a dead blow worked. Well 3 out of 4 anyway. I had to screw it on one of the lower ball joints and whale the crap outta it. I can’t do the same with the tie rod ends though…
 
i use the fork tool thing all the time mine i german ..has 2 holes for differnet lenth bjs
but had it crush the top couple of threads always just hit the spindle taper with a bfh but hate to leave dents in classics and dont work on alloy spindles
 
Whatever you decide on, make sure whatever tool it is, is one that won't hurt the boot. Because not every time you need to separate tie rods do they need to be replaced. There are other instances where you might remove them.
 
Two hammers are needed to release a tapered fitting. One to shock it and one to back it up. Not always but very helpful if you can do it. Keep beating it. It will come loose.
 
Only puller i own is for the harmonic, all ball joints/tie rods get 1 hit with a 3-5lb hammer and pop off instantly..
 
junkyardhero said:
pickle fork. seriously, that's the only one that'll stand the test of time and abuse.

one like this style will work, but expect to break it on the lower ball joints.

View attachment 1716394743

if you're not doing the work day in day out, buy this set:

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it'll do everything you need and the price isn't bad.
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Any of those can break, especially if you never lube the threads. Remember the last one you borrowed from Advance, they're always wirn out or broken way too soon!
Any puller needs threads, points & cups Lubed. I usually use Anti Seize, and a little heat always helps more than Impact Hammering if frozen.
 
bcschief said:
They tear the boots up and try to buy a balljoint or tie rod end boot that fits correctly, good luck.
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Thats why a non castle nut put on & hit w hammer so thread not injured works. & Some castle nuts will work, IF you are careful
 
I just installed Mevotech lbj on our 67 cuda, factory disc brake car. Be on the road in a few days(hopefully). I had just planned/hoped to swap boot. Nope bj was cooked, so i ordered complete one from Mevotech
bcschief said:
They tear the boots up and try to buy a balljoint or tie rod end boot that fits correctly, good luck.
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