Initial timing

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Is fuel dripping in the carb? Does it smell like fuel out tailpipes?

2" of vacuum, something is wrong with the gauge or port you have it hooked up too.

The light not flashing all the time when cranking and I missed if it did it when running is bad.
 
Thanks Rob, "things/****/symptoms" have changed since the start of this thread.
No fuel dribbling.
I bought a new timing light and since then I havent encountered a "no flash/no spark" issue. BUT still a hard start when cold.
I replaced ECU, still a hard start at times.
I've probably f'd up the carb as there is now 4-5" of vac at idle lol.
Pretty sure the bride picked up the Eddy kit today, so I'll redo it over the weekend.
I think theres a few issues going on, since the fuel in the tank was older and **** has compounded.
Bad fuel=Swap Eddy for Carter and siphon out **** gas.
Adjusted Carter(curb idle and mixture screws)
Chk initial timing(was 30, now 15)
Recapped reluctor .008
Its steadily gone downhill from there lol.
Thanks!
crackedback said:
Is fuel dripping in the carb? Does it smell like fuel out tailpipes?

2" of vacuum, something is wrong with the gauge or port you have it hooked up too.

The light not flashing all the time when cranking and I missed if it did it when running is bad.
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks Rob, "things/****/symptoms" have changed since the start of this thread.
No fuel dribbling.
I bought a new timing light and since then I havent encountered a "no flash/no spark" issue. BUT still a hard start when cold.
I replaced ECU, still a hard start at times.
I've probably f'd up the carb as there is now 4-5" of vac at idle lol.
Pretty sure the bride picked up the Eddy kit today, so I'll redo it over the weekend.
I think theres a few issues going on, since the fuel in the tank was older and **** has compounded.
Bad fuel=Swap Eddy for Carter and siphon out **** gas.
Adjusted Carter(curb idle and mixture screws)
Chk initial timing(was 30, now 15)
Recapped reluctor .008
Its steadily gone downhill from there lol.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I'll assume you've checked for vacuum leaks and your coils good? I have had good timing lights not work on occasion on Brand New MSD wires and then later on ..work just fine ...so I've had that happen too. I use a matchbook to Gap the reluctor to the magnetic pickup. As long as you can just see between the two it's about .008,yes.
Have you pulled the covers off to see if all the valves are closed, stems are all about the same height? Valve lash?
 
Thanks J, I havent checked coil yet(timing light shows consistent spark now).
I also havent pulled a v/c YET. When I do I'll chk the lash also.
No to checking for vac leaks. I'm assuming no as there seems to be a lot of vacuum and when I put hand over carb it stalls.
Yeah reluctor gap set with brass gauge.
A few things on the to do list, and the carb kit came in. Hopefully get time Monday to tackle this.
Thanks.
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I'll assume you've checked for vacuum leaks and your coils good? I have had good timing lights not work on occasion on Brand New MSD wires and then later on ..work just fine ...so I've had that happen too. I use a matchbook to Gap the reluctor to the magnetic pickup. As long as you can just see between the two it's about .008,yes.
Have you pulled the covers off to see if all the valves are closed, stems are all about the same height? Valve lash?
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks J, I havent checked coil yet(timing light shows consistent spark now).
I also havent pulled a v/c YET. When I do I'll chk the lash also.
No to checking for vac leaks. I'm assuming no as there seems to be a lot of vacuum and when I put hand over carb it stalls.
Yeah reluctor gap set with brass gauge.
A few things on the to do list, and the carb kit came in. Hopefully get time Monday to tackle this.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
If it dies with your hand choking it..shouldn't be a vac leak .good to hear
 
So back at it, finished eddy carb kit. While carb is off I checked coil. Primary 1.4k and 2ndary 8.49k.
No number on coil, just "015".
MP coil 0.8K primary, 2ndary 4.39k. The MP appear to be in spec, but the no name is roughly twice the resistance??
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I'll assume you've checked for vacuum leaks and your coils good? I have had good timing lights not work on occasion on Brand New MSD wires and then later on ..work just fine ...so I've had that happen too. I use a matchbook to Gap the reluctor to the magnetic pickup. As long as you can just see between the two it's about .008,yes.
Have you pulled the covers off to see if all the valves are closed, stems are all about the same height? Valve lash?
Click to expand...

20221010_151422.jpg


20221002_221144.jpg
 
4spdragtop said:
So back at it, finished eddy carb kit. While carb is off I checked coil. Primary 1.4k and 2ndary 8.49k.
No number on coil, just "015".
MP coil 0.8K primary, 2ndary 4.39k. The MP appear to be in spec, but the no name is roughly twice the resistance??


View attachment 1715996340

View attachment 1715996341
Click to expand...
Nice. Have you run it with the new coil yet? You know it doesn't matter what level/yrs you are at...it's the simplest thing sometimes the other day my wife asked me to go over the Volvo make, sure it had a oil and all that kind of stuff... well being that it has 330,000 miles on it... it was down a quart and a half or so.. never any oil light though and I know it works. Also had a rough idle... well the plug wires are new... plugs are new too. This Volvo mounts the coil high up on the fender by the firewall and runs a long coil wire 'suspended' between some ac lines and brake lines. Not touching a thing... but the wire didn't care, a solid arch jumped 1/2 inch to a brake line...duh..
I electrical tape wrapped x2 and slipped a slit rubber hose over it. Smooth idle.
I'm not saying that your coil is the fix per se maybe it is maybe it's just a part of a few failures that contribute combined detriment to its running right.
 
Measuring coil sec resistance with a DVM gives a misleading reading. Should be done with old fashioned V-O-M moving coil meter.
Canister coils are very reliable & I am sure there are many in trash bins that should not be there....
 
Bewy said:
Measuring coil sec resistance with a DVM gives a misleading reading. Should be done with old fashioned V-O-M moving coil meter.
Canister coils are very reliable & I am sure there are many in trash bins that should not be there....
Click to expand...
try running a GOOD vac advance canister . My 273 commando had the same problem of it breaking up badly when rpms came up.. I switched the vac can and it ran beautiful.
 
Well, although it fired up perfectly, same symptoms. Stumble/backfire on deceleration and cruise. Even just slightly above idle, approx 1000 rpm. The symptoms are not rpm dependent.
I dont have a new coil, the spare is the MP one and its rated at 1/2 the resistance on both primary and secondary, so I was worried too much voltage(ohms law) killing something. I havent been able to find concrete factory coil specs and ballast resistor specs. The br installed is 0.6 ohm with everything unhooked.
Eddy spacer, Mopar orange ecu.
20* initial.
New fuel filter was clean.
Oh 3rd video I adjusted the idle mixture screws in 1/4" (thinking it was rich causing the backfiring). No difference.
Things still to do
1. Plug change Champ RN14YC
2. Check distributor cap
3. Chk both timed and manifold vacuum
4. Remove vc's and chk lash and ensure valves are closing.
5. Find/swap replacement coil?
Ideas??
Thanks.

Ideas?








MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Nice. Have you run it with the new coil yet? You know it doesn't matter what level/yrs you are at...it's the simplest thing sometimes the other day my wife asked me to go over the Volvo make, sure it had a oil and all that kind of stuff... well being that it has 330,000 miles on it... it was down a quart and a half or so.. never any oil light though and I know it works. Also had a rough idle... well the plug wires are new... plugs are new too. This Volvo mounts the coil high up on the fender by the firewall and runs a long coil wire 'suspended' between some ac lines and brake lines. Not touching a thing... but the wire didn't care, a solid arch jumped 1/2 inch to a brake line...duh..
I electrical tape wrapped x2 and slipped a slit rubber hose over it. Smooth idle.
I'm not saying that your coil is the fix per se maybe it is maybe it's just a part of a few failures that contribute combined detriment to its running right.
Click to expand...
 
The vac can in it doesnt leak, has 11R stamped on it, so 22* of vac, 20(ish) initial and Total mech of 37 at 5k(ish). So theoretically 59* ??
I have a spare vac with 8.5R stamped, so 17* crank gives 54* all in?
I dont think it's a vac advance issue as can holds vac and the distributor(and can) is same one for a few years now.
Would pickup in distributor cause this? I put distributor in vice and spun by hand with continuity tester and the beeps were good and regular.
I'm also thinking coil and/or ballast resistor combo? I'm unsure of factory specs for coil/ballast
Thanks, gonna have to invest in a Gopro soon lol
stroker402 said:
try running a GOOD vac advance canister . My 273 commando had the same problem of it breaking up badly when rpms came up.. I switched the vac can and it ran beautiful.
Click to expand...
 
One other thing, I have yellow springs 4" in the carb. They are one down(leaner) then factory orange which is 5" as per Edelbrock book.
 
Compression
Ignition
Fuel

Is what makes our engines run.

Sounds to me like your mechanical Valves are all set too tight.

Just want to make sure you did not set them like hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers, where you go to zero lash then down 1 full turn.

Solid lifters and adjustable rocker you want something like .015 ths gap with the feeler gauge, not zero lash.

_________

Then next carb selection comes into play next. Believe your older mopar carb you have there is plugged.

A 1406 Edelbrock usually runs good on the small blocks, the 1405 is a richer jetted carb and can be adding to your problems.

A quick compression test on a couple of cylinders will tell you if your valves are too tight.

_________

I am fortunate to have a proven good running engine on my test run stand that I use for testing carbs.

Friend brought by a 1400 Rebuilt Edelbrock for me to test run. Immediately ran bad, a lot like the way your engine is running. Dead and popping on acceleration. changed metering rods, springs, adjusted idle jets, No Joy.

Pulled off that 1400 carb and put on my known good 1406 Edelbrock, and it immediately fired right up and ran perfect. You could just tell by the tone of it that it was right.

I am not hearing that good tone with your engine running in the video with the 1405 on it.

Resized_20200712_194110_8421.jpeg
 
Just a couple observations:

You should unhook that temporary mini tach and see if it runs better. I had one of those and it was running my battery dead, needless to say it got disconnected. Chineseium

Also if you want good quick starts switch over to the Dakota High Torque Mini Starters.

They turn over the engine much faster with less effort, and the big payoff is that they drain less juice from your ignition system so it fires the plugs easier too.

Every mopar I have owned, 1st thing I do is install a mini starter. They start like they have fuel Injection with the upgrade.
 
Thanks Casey, valves are/were set properly, approx .020 lash, cant remember specs exactly, but it has sat for 4 years.
It has the mini starter thankfully. Lots of cranking juice, battery has been load tested (good).
I dont think fuel is the issue but I dont know much lol. Gonna see what's recommended for an oem style coil for electronic ignition.
Thanks again.
George Jets said:
Compression
Ignition
Fuel

Is what makes our engines run.

Sounds to me like your mechanical Valves are all set too tight.

Just want to make sure you did not set them like hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers, where you go to zero lash then down 1 full turn.

Solid lifters and adjustable rocker you want something like .015 ths gap with the feeler gauge, not zero lash.

_________

Then next carb selection comes into play next. Believe your older mopar carb you have there is plugged.

A 1406 Edelbrock usually runs good on the small blocks, the 1405 is a richer jetted carb and can be adding to your problems.

A quick compression test on a couple of cylinders will tell you if your valves are too tight.

_________

I am fortunate to have a proven good running engine on my test run stand that I use for testing carbs.

Friend brought by a 1400 Rebuilt Edelbrock for me to test run. Immediately ran bad, a lot like the way your engine is running. Dead and popping on acceleration. changed metering rods, springs, adjusted idle jets, No Joy.

Pulled off that 1400 carb and put on my known good 1406 Edelbrock, and it immediately fired right up and ran perfect. You could just tell by the tone of it that it was right.

I am not hearing that good tone with your engine running in the video with the 1405 on it.

View attachment 1715996526
Click to expand...

George Jets said:
Just a couple observations:

You should unhook that temporary mini tach and see if it runs better. I had one of those and it was running my battery dead, needless to say it got disconnected. Chineseium

Also if you want good quick starts switch over to the Dakota High Torque Mini Starters.

They turn over the engine much faster with less effort, and the big payoff is that they drain less juice from your ignition system so it fires the plugs easier too.

Every mopar I have owned, 1st thing I do is install a mini starter. They start like they have fuel Injection with the upgrade.
Click to expand...
 
Take a compression test on 1 cylinder, should be over 120 psi to work good.

If that one cylinder is low you should check others.

Any chance your new cam is going flat? That is a sign as things progressively get worse.
 
[1] A faulty tach can cause spark problems. Disconnect tach & re-test.
[2] A faulty p/up can cause problems with broken wires caused by the VA unit flexing the wires. To test: disconnect/plug VA hose & re-test.
 
Was it a fresh build engine that sat for 4 years? Or an existing running engine that sat for 4 years.

Either way unless you re-primed that oil system that cam was going to be running dry. Burning the peaks off the lobes and digging into the lifters.

Especially true if you have higher than stock valve spring pressures.

Especially true if you have a higher lift cam than factory stock.

Please tell me it's a stock 273.
 
If I remember right that edelbrock's like to have about two and a half turns out each idle screw... either way if it idles nice & it only fucks up after that .. you have a jetting or power supply problem to the ignition. I would think
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
If I remember right that edelbrock's like to have about two and a half turns out each idle screw... either way if it idles nice & it only fucks up after that .. you have a jetting or power supply problem to the ignition. I would think
Click to expand...
Intermittent power to ignition? I was thinking the same thing. That would definitely screw stuff up
 
Didnt get time spent, but got $$ spent. Canadian Tire had a BWD Coil in stock. Primary 1.4 ohms, 2ndary 8.93K ohms. Same specs as coil in car.
This one was $70!
Found another SMP UC12 for 1/2 the price, and recommended ballast is RU37, but specs for that ballast is 1.2 ohms? One currently in car is 0.6.

20221011_140049.jpg


20221011_140053.jpg
 
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