As long as you are checking things, what is the compression (psi) on one hole?
Initial timing
- Thread starter 4spdragtop
- Start date
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Thanks Casey, ran out of time today, that's on the list. Nights for next 3, so Friday at the earliest for compression test.
Also you mentioned prev about cam lobes getting wiped. Oil has consistenly been good(no metal)at changes for 10 years(sat last 4) since new top end was installed. These are new symptoms.
Also you mentioned prev about cam lobes getting wiped. Oil has consistenly been good(no metal)at changes for 10 years(sat last 4) since new top end was installed. These are new symptoms.
Woke up early today and spent an hour on cuda. Pulled Autolite plugs that have maybe 600-700 miles. I pulled them 2 weeks back and cleaned them and reinstalled. Pulled them and installed Champ RN14YC.
Fired up, no change off idle pops/n stumbles.
Hooked timing light lead up to all 8 wires, and as it idles all 8 wires/flash spark even/consistent.
As I increase RPM slightly/slowly above idle stumbles start and flash gets intermittent....
Removed factory tach wire, no change.
I'm leaning towards coil?
Dist pickup?(But when dist is removed and I hook ohm meter up to elec ign leads, it beeps consistently when I spin by hand.)
I'm pondering the VR as well? I am running the 70+ alt and VR(I've read it's more reliable)
Thanks all
Fired up, no change off idle pops/n stumbles.
Hooked timing light lead up to all 8 wires, and as it idles all 8 wires/flash spark even/consistent.
As I increase RPM slightly/slowly above idle stumbles start and flash gets intermittent....
Removed factory tach wire, no change.
I'm leaning towards coil?
Dist pickup?(But when dist is removed and I hook ohm meter up to elec ign leads, it beeps consistently when I spin by hand.)
I'm pondering the VR as well? I am running the 70+ alt and VR(I've read it's more reliable)
Thanks all
Not getting enough fuel, those insulators on the plugs are too white.
Lean situation = poping
Want them looking more like this for a good running engine.
Lean situation = poping
Want them looking more like this for a good running engine.
The thing with used carbs is they sit around and get plugged internally, really hard to get them cleaned out properly. No easy task.
Resulting in poor fuel flow of the internal passages.
Resulting in poor fuel flow of the internal passages.
Thanks Casey, I'll admit I'm still learning lots here and you can add carb tuning to that list.
As for the Eddy, I'm fairly confident its clean(carter vs eddy swap=same symptoms).
What I did to Eddy after installing kit was set transition slots square, set choke flap to 3/64" and set IMS at approx 2-2 1/4" inches out(basing it on rpm change).
Definitely not done tuning carb, I'll take a look at it in the morning.
As for the Eddy, I'm fairly confident its clean(carter vs eddy swap=same symptoms).
What I did to Eddy after installing kit was set transition slots square, set choke flap to 3/64" and set IMS at approx 2-2 1/4" inches out(basing it on rpm change).
Definitely not done tuning carb, I'll take a look at it in the morning.
Warm it up, then stand by the fender and run up the throttle.
If it starts popping again as you are increasing rpm, start closing down the choke by hand and bring the rpms up again to see if the popping goes away with the now richer fuel air mixture.
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Can try an alternate fuel source of clean new fuel (can with hose) elevated up on a ladder above the level of the carb. Rubber hose directly to the carb.
This will eliminate your fuel pump and possibly the fuel in your tank is still contaminated.
Process of Elimination
Keep eliminating things until you find what the problem is.
Compression
FUEL
Ignition
One thing at a time.
If it starts popping again as you are increasing rpm, start closing down the choke by hand and bring the rpms up again to see if the popping goes away with the now richer fuel air mixture.
_________
Can try an alternate fuel source of clean new fuel (can with hose) elevated up on a ladder above the level of the carb. Rubber hose directly to the carb.
This will eliminate your fuel pump and possibly the fuel in your tank is still contaminated.
Process of Elimination
Keep eliminating things until you find what the problem is.
Compression
FUEL
Ignition
One thing at a time.
P.S.
Disconnect and cap the gas line from the tank to the fuel pump.
Let all the gas drain out of the fuel pump and line to carb with line disconnected at the carb.
Then cap off the end of the line to the carb so you don't have gasoline spraying around when you are cranking the engine with the alternative fuel source.
Saftey First
Disconnect and cap the gas line from the tank to the fuel pump.
Let all the gas drain out of the fuel pump and line to carb with line disconnected at the carb.
Then cap off the end of the line to the carb so you don't have gasoline spraying around when you are cranking the engine with the alternative fuel source.
Saftey First
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
I remember having lean backfires on my afb that a regular carb cleaning didn't fix. There are a few tiny air bleeds on the primary venturi that had to be poked clear with a thin wire I borrowed from a stainless bristle brush. Carb was actually usable after that.
These had plugged after sitting for a few years
These had plugged after sitting for a few years
stroker402
1968 dart GTS convertible
I mentioned in an earlier post to swap out the vac adv canister . I had the same troubles 273 commando .. new can solved the issue. ..
Thanks, it's a process of elimination, I havent gotten "there" yet.
If it is the can, wouldnt it leak, not hold vacuum?
Fyi, I tried richening it up while running,(closing choke valve, and turning IMS out) and still no change.
I can turn any simple fix into a shitstorm lol.
If it is the can, wouldnt it leak, not hold vacuum?
Fyi, I tried richening it up while running,(closing choke valve, and turning IMS out) and still no change.
I can turn any simple fix into a shitstorm lol.
I was able to duck out to the shop for a few minutes. Started up and raised slightly above idle it stumbled, then I pulled vac hose from front of carb and stumble went away.
I have a spare 8.5R va, I'll swap out the 11R that's on it.
Dumb question...could something be causing too much vacuum OR vacuum too early?
Thanks
I have a spare 8.5R va, I'll swap out the 11R that's on it.
Dumb question...could something be causing too much vacuum OR vacuum too early?
Thanks
stroker402
1968 dart GTS convertible
defective part
The VA is adjustable, and any reading I've done states that altho it is adjustable, the "amount" isnt adjustable, it's the "when".
I wonder if now because I have my initial at 15*, that the VA is killing it and I need to adjust the VA?
I can swap the VA to the 8.5, but curious if it is simply an adjustment?
The 11R VA holds vacuum
I wonder if now because I have my initial at 15*, that the VA is killing it and I need to adjust the VA?
I can swap the VA to the 8.5, but curious if it is simply an adjustment?
The 11R VA holds vacuum
You have it hooked up to ported vaccuum right Steve? like we talked on the phone about it should not move at idle at all.
Yes ported, once the hose was removed from carb the stumble stopped. I got the VA swapped (8.5) and was tempted to replace pickup and reluctor but changing more than 1 thing at a time makes it a pita to get definitive answer.
OK it sounds like the ported has Vacuum at idle does it? It is not supposed to.
No, I'll double check when I get home shortly. The stumble is at about 1000 rpm and up. As soon as it stumbled again, I pulled the hose off ported vac and immediately went away. VA is swapped so I'll see if that fixes it. Reluctor and pickup looks like it might have "scrubbed" also, but I'm only changing one thing at a time.
Steve you said at idle it went up with ported vac connected to the VA?. if there is any vac at all at idle out of the ported vac you have to take care of it first. Also you mighty vac'd the VA you said it was good. It is adjustable for rate only not total, look into that all first like we talked about. Ohm out he pick up it is probably fine do it hot and cold. From what I am reading it sounds like when the VA is hooked up it advances and stumbled which makes sense am I right? If so double check you have zero vac on the poted vac port and if there is adjust the throttle blades.
Ok, so swapped out distributor pickup, noticed it scrubbed with va engaged. Swapped 11R to 8.5R.
Hooked up my DIY remote starter.
Verified tdc again.
Almost forgot to remove tdc tool before firing up
Removed TDC tool lol, fired right up.
15* Initial. Ported vac, 0". Approx 675 rpm. Approx 30* full mech at 3000 rpm.
Thanks all, progress!
Hooked up my DIY remote starter.
Verified tdc again.
Almost forgot to remove tdc tool before firing up
Removed TDC tool lol, fired right up.
15* Initial. Ported vac, 0". Approx 675 rpm. Approx 30* full mech at 3000 rpm.
Thanks all, progress!
Awesome, glad you found the issue. Do you think it was a combination of both?
Thanks, I'm thinking it was all the "stacked" bs. Hard to say which was the culprit, VA, pickup, carb, **** fuel ecu?
Symptoms didnt improve until pickup and va were swapped at same time.
Made my remote starter switch, handy as heck!
Gaining more knowledge of vac gauge, timing and light and Eddy carbs, only costs were new plugs and carb kit.
I can take new $70 coil back too lol.
Test run tomorrow and tweaking then compression test and set valves. Gotta make use of the remote starter lol.
Thanks.
Symptoms didnt improve until pickup and va were swapped at same time.
Made my remote starter switch, handy as heck!
Gaining more knowledge of vac gauge, timing and light and Eddy carbs, only costs were new plugs and carb kit.
I can take new $70 coil back too lol.
Test run tomorrow and tweaking then compression test and set valves. Gotta make use of the remote starter lol.
Thanks.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Have you verified TDC on the damper? The outer ring will slip and show a more advanced timing, If so it's time to rebuild or replace it.
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