Installing inner fender, 64 Barracuda

[Fstforward]

Ok, I gots a question or 3.

I have removed the old inner fender from the car, the new(er) inner fender has been test fitted and is pretty good, BUT, and this is the big but, and the gist of this thread: the seams on the inner fender, and the matching "tab" area where they will weld to, match pretty good, but neither is perfectly straight, and I kinda want to end up with fit and finish almost like factory, although I know that may be next to impossible. Now, I have body hammers and dollies, and can massage the metal to almost perfectly straight, but that final finish requires near perfection, I mean, it's under the hood and that will be an area that is scrutinized by people looking @ the car @ cruises and SnS's.

Any ideas/suggestions/tips????

FF

 

[lhearold]

I don't see why you couldn't dolly it as flat as possible on both pieces prior to welding. Your problem may be that as you weld the panel may distort some and throw off the alignment. It makes more holes to weld up but I usually use a LOT of sheet metal screws to hold everything in place and where possible clamp on both sides of the area I'm welding on. After welding, grind down the welds and repair any that look weak then seam seal the joint and use a skim coat of filler over the welds to clean up the area.

Larry

 

[Fstforward]

NOw I had thought about getting it really straight, then using the small sheet metal screws to get the thing into the best position possible, then welding it together, but jumping all around as to which hole to weld, that way, not throwing too much heat into one area at a time. Then removing the screws, tacking welding the holes shut, then doing the grind thing,

I've never tackled this kind of project, but this is MY restoration project and I want to do abso-freakin-lutely as much of it myself as I can possibly do.

FF

 

[ramenth]

NOw I had thought about getting it really straight, then using the small sheet metal screws to get the thing into the best position possible, then welding it together, but jumping all around as to which hole to weld, that way, not throwing too much heat into one area at a time. Then removing the screws, tacking welding the holes shut, then doing the grind thing,

I've never tackled this kind of project, but this is MY restoration project and I want to do abso-freakin-lutely as much of it myself as I can possibly do.

FF

Sounds like a plan to me. If you're worried about the heat, moving around is the best idea. The sheetmetal screw is a good idea to keep alignment of the two panels. Just want to know if you're stitch or plug welding?

 

[limelite70]

sounds like your answering your own question.
do the best you can with trial and error.
take your time.
you wont warp it plug welding.

 

[Fstforward]

Plug, the replacement inner fender was pulled by drilling out the welds, so I have 32,985 holes to use to attach it to the "tab" on the body end, and the rad support end.


FF

 

[ramenth]

Plug, the replacement inner fender was pulled by drilling out the welds, so I have 32,985 holes to use to attach it to the "tab" on the body end, and the rad support end.


FF

Okay, just wanted to know. The biggest thing about plug welding is making sure the metal is nice and tight between the two pieces around the holes otherwise you might seperate them. If you're going to use the sheetmetal screws get 'em close to the holes and you won't a have a problem with the seam at all. Otherwise think about investing in some long vise grip welding clamps and pinch the two pieces close together at each hole. Take your time. As has been pointed out, with plug welding you shouldn't have a problem with warpage, as the metal between the holes stays fairly cool. You can always hammer and dolly straight again if you pinch too tight or just to clean it up. Get a good enough weld on it, and you might not even have to grind and cover.