Installing QA1 adjustable strut rods, questions and observations...

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dano

Evil Handy Man
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So I 'm installing a set of QA1 adjustable on my 69. I understand what their job is and have no binds but....

Install step 4 says "
Cycle the control arm though its full motion to insure there is not any binding in the front mount
or the rod end and adjust the front mount as necessary. Once the front mount is indexed and there is no binding the front mount can be tightened.
"

OK, well what is "full motion"? The struts range of motion is limited by the washers inside the heim. So where do I set up this now limited full range of motion? Against the bump stop for up and then get what I get for down? Then when I go to install the torsion bar I can't swing the lower control arm all the way down to seat it in. I know others have installed these or similar setups so any thought or inputs are appreciated here.

Index the front mount? OK, it turns and un-indexes itself when you try to tighten it. Jam a screwdriver up their and hope it won't move?
 
Full motion is bump stop to bump stop, and the strut rod should be able to move through that range without issue. If the heims get close to the stops have it be at the very ends of that range, so that at ride height the motion is smooth. Keep in mind that if your car is lowered significantly you may want/need to make adjustments to your bump stops, like using a thin poly bump stop for the lower control arm. The other part people ignore is that if you install a really thin lower bump stop you should also install a taller upper bump stop to keep the range of motion centered around the ride height. That's more important with large torsion bars, because you may actually be able to unload the bar at full suspension extension if you sit low enough at ride height. I set the strut rods up with the UCA, LCA and spindle in place, not just the LCA. That way you know how everything moves when the suspension is together. Obviously the shock has to be removed.

You can do this with the torsion bars installed, just remove the torsion bar adjuster and block. You may have to remove a bump stop to remove and reinstall the torsion bar adjuster so you have enough range to get the block in and out.
 
^^Thanks for the info, I was hoping you'd chime in, I've read a ton of you post...

The way you described it is how I imagined it should be. Right know I just have the lower arm installed with strut rod. I have QA1 uppers installed but no spindle between them. I guess I'll install that but to me it seems hard to find a smooth rate of motion with so much hooked up adding weight and friction. Like you say, you need to establish your range of motion and possibly adjust it for your ride height. FYI I have 1.00" torsion bars and don't plan to slam. ride height like i had would be perfect.

20140808_135637.jpg
 
It's definitely easier to feel any resistance with just the LCA attached, but then it's harder to know what the actual range of motion will be. I've done it both ways, moving the whole assembly is definitely a little harder because of the added weight and it feels different because you have the resistance of moving the ball joints etc, but you can still tell if you start to get any binding in the LCA. And the actual range of motion is smaller than you might think with everything installed.

Keep in mind too that you can play with the angle of the heims by changing how the slots in the ends of the mounts are clocked. I know they show a certain angle in the instructions but that also depends on the ride height and the range of motion, you may have to adjust the clocking of the heims compared to the instructions to keep everything moving smoothly for your car.
 
Yeah that slot need clocked to get the most movement, keeping it there when tightening will be the fun part.
 
How loose are you guys installing the rear nut when checking for binding? After getting the rest of the parts connected I'm noticing the strut rod is moving in and out of the rear. Hoping to figure that out before installing the other side
 
How loose are you guys installing the rear nut when checking for binding? After getting the rest of the parts connected I'm noticing the strut rod is moving in and out of the rear. Hoping to figure that out before installing the other side

Has to be tight. Basically you have to install them, check for binding, loosen the nut and make any adjustments to the length, tighten everything again, recheck. You don't have to torque everything to spec, but, everything needs to be tight enough that everything stays located when you check for binding. If the strut rod is moving in and out when you move the suspension, it's not nearly tight enough.
 
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