Internal/external balancing

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So then a heavier dampener is better than a lighter dampener? Or just in certain cases. Kim

It depends. I’ll see if I can dig out my engine book and post some of what Chrysler said about it.

The issue is as components change, RPM change and even cylinder pressure changes...all that will require the damper to be tuned differently to control harmonics. Usually the only way to do that is increase the weight, although Tom Leib, who owns Scat Cranks says you can run with a solid hub up front. He says all you do with a “reactive” damper (his words, not mine) are useless and only add flywheel weight to the engine. I called bullshit on that, because I’ve seen probably a dozen failed cranks from using that junk, and probably 30 junk cranks that were going to fail but were caught when I mag’d them.

I was going to call Randy Neal at CWT and talk to him about this, but I’ve been so busy I haven’t made the time. Maybe tomorrow I’ll call him and see what he says, because I know he is dead set on drilling any damper for balancing. Ever. It makes sense because when you drill a damper (talking OE elastomer damper here, not an FD, ATI, IW or similar) you reduce the weight of the outer ring AND you change the balance of the damper.
 
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