IS 700 HP POSSIBLE WITH......

[MOPARMAGA]

I'm sure Tim has several tests in his archives regarding oil temps with or without a fill and with regular oil vs Torco oil.
Korie's got his ear or vice versa.

Yeah, also there's a dude I talked to who's done 50 or so blocks, he gave me a run down on what to expect.
I am thinking I will be just fine with the big c-body radiator and 3.5-4 gallons of oil running through the dry sump system.

 

[92b]

Yeah, also there's a dude I talked to who's done 50 or so blocks, he gave me a run down on what to expect.
I am thinking I will be just fine with the big c-body radiator and 3.5-4 gallons of oil running through the dry sump system.

I helped crew on an ARCA car and when qualifying at Daytona we had a heater in the oil tank and a pump that ran the coolant through an ice filled box hooked up to the car moments before he pulled on the track for qualifying. I don't know anything about drag racing. Will you preheat your oil before you make a run?

 

[MOPARMAGA]

I helped crew on an ARCA car and when qualifying at Daytona we had a heater in the oil tank and a pump that ran the coolant through an ice filled box hooked up to the car moments before he pulled on the track for qualifying. I don't know anything about drag racing. Will you preheat your oil before you make a run?

I'll do a warm up, get everything warmed up.
I should have data on the Dyno hopefully of how long it takes to warm up the oil.
I will pay attention to that temp since if I remember correctly it was a 10 HP loss from 170° to 180° but we'll see, since this engine being the same short block will be different with ported heads and massively reworked tunnel ram and a few more degrees of duration and .040 more lift solid roller cam.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

Maybe. Remember though Heat sinks can work both ways. They can also stabilize the temp too.

Don't forget to call timmy

 

[RustyRatRod]

Don't forget to call timmy

Thanks! You know me all too well. lol

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

Ok, so I haven’t run the car on the dyno, but the trick flow 240 top end kit advertises 625 with their cam/heads/intake, stock bore and 900 on top. So, the 270 trick flows should do that easy

 

[MOPARMAGA]

Ok, so I haven’t run the car on the dyno, but the trick flow 240 top end kit advertises 625 with their cam/heads/intake, stock bore and 900 on top. So, the 270 trick flows should do that easy

that's the easy way to get that number.

 

[92b]

I'll do a warm up, get everything warmed up.
I should have data on the Dyno hopefully of how long it takes to warm up the oil.
I will pay attention to that temp since if I remember correctly it was a 10 HP loss from 170° to 180° but we'll see, since this engine being the same short block will be different with ported heads and massively reworked tunnel ram and a few more degrees of duration and .040 more lift solid roller cam.

10 hp loss from oil temp from 170 to 180?

 

[MOPARMAGA]

10 hp loss from oil temp from 170 to 180?

Yep, most of my pulls were at 170 and we did 2 back to back no changes except the oil temp was higher.

 

[92b]

Yep, most of my pulls were at 170 and we did 2 back to back no changes except the oil temp was higher.

My experience has been with no other changes or varibles that higher oil temp equals more hp but 10 hp at a 10 degrees difference would be more that what I would expect and in the opposite direction.
10 degrees without a cooler to control the temp would be within the range of a normal amount of increase during a pull on a wetsump depending on oil pan, oil level, oil quantity, stroke and somethings I can't account for.
It's interesting to see how some motors build temp at a fast rate and others do not. I almost always do two pulls back to back after preheating the motor by sweeping back and forth and watching the power trace for when the motor stabilizes and repeats while watching my oil temp come up to my starting temp. Usually between 180 and 190 at the start of the first pull.
It can be challenging to get this timed right but after a couple pulls you figure out how far the oil needs to cool down to between test to get it timed right. I fist check to see how well the two pulls repeated then average the two individual pulls into a combined run and use this for comparing test. Some motors will repeat really well ( usually the sign of a good running motor). some motor do not repeat well ( usually but not always a sign of a poor running motor). Some motors will make more power on the first pull than the second back up pull but do it consistently by the same amount and vice versa. Either way I fell knowing how the motor behaves helps with testing.
I use two little squirrel cage fans that blow on the oil pan from each side that I can turn off and on from the control room to help manunipulate the oil temperature. This saves time wating for the oil to cool back down between test.
The reason for preheating the motor by sweeping the motor back and forth is that there is almost always a sizeable increase in power on the first sweep mostly at the lower rpm range.
I watch as I sweep for the power to come down a little on each sweep until it repeats then I start my first pull at the starting oil temperature and follow with a backup pull. If I were to make a pull as soon as the oil temp comes down to my starting temp without preheating the engine as described there will be a sizeable difference in power (more) from the first pull to the backup pull. I have found that for me testing in this way gives me more repeatable testing results.
I'm curious if others have seen this and how they test.
Sorry for the long post.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

My experience has been with no other changes or varibles that higher oil temp equals more hp but 10 hp at a 10 degrees difference would be more that what I would expect and in the opposite direction.
10 degrees without a cooler to control the temp would be within the range of a normal amount of increase during a pull on a wetsump depending on oil pan, oil level, oil quantity, stroke and somethings I can't account for.
It's interesting to see how some motors build temp at a fast rate and others do not. I almost always do two pulls back to back after preheating the motor by sweeping back and forth and watching the power trace for when the motor stabilizes and repeats while watching my oil temp come up to my starting temp. Usually between 180 and 190 at the start of the first pull.
It can be challenging to get this timed right but after a couple pulls you figure out how far the oil needs to cool down to between test to get it timed right. I fist check to see how well the two pulls repeated then average the two individual pulls into a combined run and use this for comparing test. Some motors will repeat really well ( usually the sign of a good running motor). some motor do not repeat well ( usually but not always a sign of a poor running motor). Some motors will make more power on the first pull than the second back up pull but do it consistently by the same amount and vice versa. Either way I fell knowing how the motor behaves helps with testing.
I use two little squirrel cage fans that blow on the oil pan from each side that I can turn off and on from the control room to help manunipulate the oil temperature. This saves time wating for the oil to cool back down between test.
The reason for preheating the motor by sweeping the motor back and forth is that there is almost always a sizeable increase in power on the first sweep mostly at the lower rpm range.
I watch as I sweep for the power to come down a little on each sweep until it repeats then I start my first pull at the starting oil temperature and follow with a backup pull. If I were to make a pull as soon as the oil temp comes down to my starting temp without preheating the engine as described there will be a sizeable difference in power (more) from the first pull to the backup pull. I have found that for me testing in this way gives me more repeatable testing results.
I'm curious if others have seen this and how they test.
Sorry for the long post.

After I pulled it back apart (which I didn't really want to do) I found the rod bearing clearance was too tight. So I suppose it was at that heat where the clearance tightened up to where the coating started grabbing the crankshaft, 7&8 almost spun.
Sorry, I didn't even think about that when I made that statement.
That was a all me, I made a calculation error.
Luckily it only cost a set of bearings

 

[92b]

After I pulled it back apart (which I didn't really want to do) I found the rod bearing clearance was too tight. So I suppose it was at that heat where the clearance tightened up to where the coating started grabbing the crankshaft, 7&8 almost spun.
Sorry, I didn't even think about that when I made that statement.
That was a all me, I made a calculation error.
Luckily it only cost a set of bearings

Good save. Better you do the disassembly than let the motor do it.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

Good save. Better you do the disassembly than let the motor do it.

Yes, I was just doing my cam swap and it was a little dirty after a wind storm, so that's why & yeah it was a good save.