Is anybody familiar with "gluing" on patch panels?

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Mopartist

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I'm very interested in this process. I've posted a few pictures and picked up little tidbits of info; but I haven't really found someone who really has done this. So here's what I've heard so far; but I have alot of questions.
In the first pic; here's my project. The rust started in the crease of the inner wheelwell where it meets the fender opening. I picked up left and right Goodmark patch panels on EBay. In the second photo; I have clamped the panel to the body for the purpose of marking the outline. The third photo is photoshopped for the purpose of visual effect. It's not the actual panel size I'm using
I'll be replacing the wheel houses with aftermarket Jegs, or Chassisworks tubs; so the old stock ones will be removed.
I'll be using a flange tool for this process so that I can overlap the sheet metal. So now my questions begin:
1.) I'm wondering how far inside the outline do I mark for cutting? (photo 3)
2.) Do you flange the body, and overlap the patch; or flange the patch and slip it behind the body for bonding ? (when we're to that point of prep)
3.) What is the best adhesive to use?

panel2.jpg


panel3.jpg


panel2 copy.jpg
 
I know "trucks" on tv did one when they built their S-10K. It seemed interesting, seems to me the parts were cleaned and put on the inside with an overlap of about 1/2" to 3/4".Then everything was smoothed out with body fill and sanded.
 
Mopar Muscle had an article about gluing in floor pans a couple of months back. I'll see if I can't find the article.
 
Being it looks like the sheetmetal is pretty good on your quarter panel except for the wheel lip area I would cut down your patch small as possible and still have good rust free metal to work with on the quarter. No sense welding, glueing and using more body filler than you need. I don't ever use all of the replacement steel if I don't need to. From where I'm sitting it looks like you have good metal just below or right at the body line.

Chuck
 
TRUCKS! glued a filler strip behind the original panel and then glued the new panel to the filler strip, creating a butt seem with no under or overlap and ultimately re-inforced the seem from behind by the filler strip. Sounds like a very strong joint if everything works as it should, only downside is the repair will be noted from inside the trunk.
 
You will have to weld the panel at the lap joints, you can glue the pinch weld areas with no problems. What happens when gluing lap joints is the line will become visable over time no matter how much filler is used to cover your lap joint it will become visable, we ran into this at the shop about 7or8yrs. ago when replacing quarter panels we glued them complete an about 2 months later one came back an the seam was visable on the sail panel no loss of adhesion or anything like that and you really could`nt feel it but you could see it.
 
If gluing panels was so great, everyone would be doing it instead of welding them, unless of course welding is a dying art and it's only a matter of time before everyone converts over to glue, but I doubt it.

If you can't do the welding, hire it out to someone who can and know that your car is done right, the first time.
 
If gluing panels was so great, everyone would be doing it instead of welding them, unless of course welding is a dying art and it's only a matter of time before everyone converts over to glue, but I doubt it.
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Actually, thats what I've been reading in quite a few articles. I just bought a new welder, and it's not that I'm against welding, I'm looking forward to it; but I'm a novice, and don't want to warp the panels from using too much heat.
 
As Chuck said, I'd only use as much of the replacement panel as is required to get rid of the rusted metal. Always leave as much as you can of the original parent metal.

As for glueing versus welding, I'm not 100% sure of the answer. If you weld, everything remains metal and you get the same basic expansion and contaction rates across your panel. Glue won't react the same and eventually you'll probably see a ghost outline of the patch in hot weather.

I know bodymen who have their preference for both methods, but I'm going to butt weld all my patches in place. Just a personal decision on my part.
 
some guys use a air operated stepper tool it pinches a lip or a fold in both one panel,,so when you mate the other panel it is flush,then stich weld it,, and because one of the panels are stepped and flush thee wont be as much filler needed to smooth it out,,seems like a much better way for a novice,,
just thought ide add my 2 cents,,,
 
if you cant weld em in have someone do it, i wouldnt go the glue route. as OldVart said, you may see a ghost line on a hot day, i can see that happening. if your going to take the time to do it, do it right the first time, it would suck to have it all painted and have to redo it then repaint he whole car. and for welding you can either but or lap joint them, its your choice
 
65s said:
If gluing panels was so great, everyone would be doing it instead of welding them, unless of course welding is a dying art and it's only a matter of time before everyone converts over to glue, but I doubt it.
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I bet people said the same thing when lead was fazed out and people started using plastic body filler. I weld myself but that info from LORDS looks interesting. People discount change, it's just human nature.


Chuck
 
340mopar said:
I bet people said the same thing when lead was fazed out and people started using plastic body filler. I weld myself but that info from LORDS looks interesting. People discount change, it's just human nature.


Chuck
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that is a good point :thumbup:
 
My duster is currently having the bodywork done and the quater skins replaced and he is using panel adhesive with alot of spot welds on the door,wheelwell,and rear/lower seems.I questioned it at first but the guys been doing bodywork for 37 years and you should see how good he can weld!-but hes had great success with the adhesive and didnt want to have a bunch of time and mud on my new skins.I also know a guy in Chicago that runs a resto buisness and said its great stuff,apparantly he went to an I car class time ago and has used it quite a bit.
 
The glueing is I-car accepted repair process in certain areas, you can not use it when lap joining panels the seam will become visable.

The reason for using it in the pinch weld areas is not only a strong bond, but it also provides a very good corosion resistants, because the entire area between the two panels is completely covered unlike spot welds which joins the two panels in certain areas with gaps inbetween.
 
I would have to agree with the idea that it's good on seams, especially after working on a car lately that has really bad rust in the trunk seams. Seems moisture got under the seam sealer and into the seams and did its thing.
 
Mopar muscle just did a great article on wheel well and quarter replacement..They suggested placing the panel on top of the car and then cut through both panels at the same time to get a perfect fit...also had great tips on the stitch welding to avoid warpage...check it out..I'm sure they list the tech articles online if you don't already have the mag( it has a pic of Dick Landy's white challenger drag car on cover)
 
1.) I'm wondering how far inside the outline do I mark for cutting? (photo 3)

The width of your flange tool. Usually about 3/8"

2.) Do you flange the body, and overlap the patch; or flange the patch and slip it behind the body for bonding ? (when we're to that point of prep)

I flanged my body, then patch on top.

3.) What is the best adhesive to use?

Sorry no info on adhesive, I prefer to make ALOT of small spot welds, keeps heat down, no warpage that way.

Just my .02 , hope it helps, Eric
 
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