It certainly happens.
Is my clutch pedal not returning because it's a (new) diaphragm clutch?
- Thread starter killerplymouth
- Start date
-
dano
Evil Handy Man
I like my pedal up, its just what I prefer for feel to dive the car. I tried it as is and it bothered me, I couldn't get my timing right. I went to the hardware store and bought a small turn buckle with an eye and a hook and several heavy springs. I found a place in the pedal assembly to hook it up and rant he buckle up tight and it now pulls my pedal up all the way. I wish the spring was heavier but I'll maybe mess with that later.
One thing this did cure for me, was with the return spring I added, sometimes the throw out would just set on the pressure plate fingers and whine. If I put my foot under the pedal and lifted it a hair it would stop.
Vixen has the original style B&B pressure plate and Kitty has no problem pressing the clutch pedal. She enjoys driving Vixen around. I did put a diaphragm style pressure plate in my truck, because with a 12" B&B style pressure plate, it was a little difficult for Kitty. I want my vehicles to be easy for her to drive if she has to. That's more important than a "correct" pressure plate. There ARE decent diaphragm clutches on the market. It is true though that the B&B style is stronger. Always has been.
I highly recommend this plate or 350 to 500 HP no need to change anything put it in set the adjustment and go, as long as linkage are working as designed. It's not a week knee set up but I don't mind a stiff pedal . I combine it with a high quality organic disc to soften it on parts .
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Yes Mine doesn't do that. If it does, you'll be changing your throw bearing real fast.
I know that you need to be careful how much grabbing pressure it has or you can break parts. You want some slippage with a clutch.
Yes I agree a little slippage can be a good thing. But tire traction is a huge part of the scenario I run 275 drag radials and that will create problems you'll never have with a standard Street tire Even with a very stiff clutch.
So what? Are you only installing parts listed in the FSM on your car? Can you still get a OE clutch from Stellantis for this application? Because if you can't even the B&B clutches you can get aren't "correct" if you're talking factory correct.
The clutch in question is made for the application. The FSM doesn't show a Holley double pumper on anything either, does that mean it won't work?
And if you make less than 500 hp and drive primarily on the street absolutely none of that matters one single bit.
Run what you like, but a diaphragm clutch will do that job just fine, and that McLeod clutch specifically works well for that application because I've run it.
There's nothing wrong with that McLeod clutch, I've literally run the same one in my Duster with a 340 and 833. It is a good clutch, it is a good choice, you just have to remove the over center spring. There's no reason to swap back to a B&B clutch to fix the issue you're having.
That is a problem, you don't want to damage anything in the mean time. Just remove the OC spring and it should be fine. If not, you may need to adjust the linkage slightly and make sure all the linkage bushings are in good shape.
Of course not. All I did was say what the FSM shows. It's also what Chrysler installed. I've said multiple times that diaphragm clutches are fine. THE WAY THE FACTORY built these cars was FOR a B&B style clutch, as they come equipped with the large over center spring, which should be either removed or swapped for a smaller one.
I had the same issues with the clutch I called Brewers and come to find out my clutch fork was sitting correctly in bellhousing once I fixed it with a new one I have not had any issues clutch pedal returns fine. Make sure you adjust pedal with the throwout bearing being about 3/8 out from engaging the clutch
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Put a diaphragm clutch in my 65, and it is one of the best moves I ever made. Works like butter.
And yes, I removed the over center spring.
And yes, I removed the over center spring.
if you have the means, go hydraulic. I am running a McLeod diaphragm clutch, and a malwood pedal which has the return spring build in.
Pedal effort is like a new Hyundai, someone mentioned shaking leg, this certainly eliminates it. Pricey tho
Pedal effort is like a new Hyundai, someone mentioned shaking leg, this certainly eliminates it. Pricey tho
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
The lever (finger) ratio on a diaphragm cover wrong for OEM clutch linkage.
They drive like a toggle switch unless you change the linkage.
That cover is not so great to bother with all that effort.
The B&B cover will do everything a diaphragm cover will and do it better or at least as good.
The issue is the public is brainwashed into thinking the B&B cover must require two good men and a boy to push the pedal down and that’s not the truth.
Because the diaphragm cover is far cheaper to manufacture and because as you know from forums like this it’s nearly impossible to educate a brainwashed populace every manufacturer just does a the diaphragm cover.
I tell people you can get a B&B cover down to under 700 pounds of load and it will drive and function as good or better than a diaphragm ever will.
The problem is convincing the brainwashed public you can leave springs out of the cover
I’ve done it. I still do it.
Your claims that the diaphragm cover is some manufacturing marvel and it’s the ONLY cover that won’t break your leg trying to push it is false.
So I tell anyone and everyone to overcome the brainwashing marketing and learn how clutches work before buying a clutch.
For the record, I say if you are using factory Chrysler clutch linkage buy a B&B cover and buy direct from the manufacturer and MAKE them get the plate load where it needs to be for the disc you are using.
As a general guideline this works:
Organic disc: 2200-2400 pounds of plate load, NO roller assist.
Ceramic, bronze metallic, dual friction and any other hybrid discs like that which I do NOT recommend: 1600-1800 pounds of plate load, NO roller assist.
Sintered iron: the best disc for any car with bite, 1200-1400 pounds of plate load, NO roller assist.
The ONLY time you’d want some roller assist (centrifugal assist) is if you are shifting at higher rpm (7200ish and above) you might need it.
Since the B&B cover is pretty much non adjustable, just like the diaphragm if you are to the point of needing centrifugal assist you need to upgrade to a Long cover.
If you notice, plate load is directly related to the disc you are using. Not the cover.
Yeah, that’s not true. I literally ran the clutch plate the OP has, with the factory linkage. It was not at all like a toggle switch, there was a good range of clutch engagement. I had no issues whatsoever running that clutch in my Duster with a 340 on the street, and I didn’t do any modifications to the original linkage besides what was necessary to fit the Z bar with my Doug’s headers and use new bushings and clips. That’s it.
Neat. The OP has doesn’t have a B&B, he doesn’t NEED a B&B, and the diaphragm clutch he has will work fine if he just removes the OC spring and makes sure he doesn’t need new bushings.
Never made that claim, not even close. You’re moving the goal posts to make your argument easier. Not everyone needs or wants a B&B, that doesn’t mean it’s not a good clutch. But it’s also not the end all be all, diaphragm clutches work great for lots (not all) applications.
Again, neat. But most folks don’t have the time or knowledge to have the manufacturer do that. And even if they do, most of us don’t NEED to because there are multiple off the shelf options that will do the job just fine. Could they be improved on? Absolutely, of course. But for most folks it’s just not necessary. And someone doing all that without the knowledge and experience could easily screw it up too.
Bottom line is the OP doesn’t need to do any of that. He just needs to remove the overcenter spring and then go have fun.
This doesn’t have to be a referendum on which style clutch is best or what someone did twenty years ago on a race car no one’s heard of. The clutch the OP has will work just fine for his application, he doesn’t need to go down this rabbit hole at all.
Last edited:
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Blah blah blah.
We get what you love. The B&B will do everything the diaphragm will and some things better.
End of story.
All you need to do is call Kentucky Clutch and they will build to spec whatever you want.
Uh-huh. Says the guy that launched into a huge self promoting argument on clutches when the OP just has to remove the overcenter spring.
If you were actually any kind of expert you’d have realized the solution to the problem was ridiculously simple. Dude’s car could be fixed and on the road in less time than it takes to read this ridiculous thread.
Oh FFS. No, all he has to do is remove the overcenter spring and everything he already has will work just fine. Takes 5 minutes, doesn’t have to drop the transmission, doesn’t have to go back the shop, back on the road.
Last edited:
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
ts not just the over center spring.
Go read it again.
Or don’t. You aren’t worth the time.
To the OP: Remove the over center spring. See if you like it. If you don't, then you can pay someone to replace the diaphragm pressure plate with a B&B that you specially ordered direct from the manufacturer to exactly suit whatever disc you're using. Then let us know if you can really tell if the custom ordered clutch works better for the driving you do.
I think we already told him that. I wasn't referring to the op, but that was aimed at newbomb. I was letting him know in case he needed a good source for clutch work. I should have quotes him. You wear your arguer like a gun always ready to aim and fire. You should think before you type. You and I usually see eye to eye on most things, including this subject.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I understand the IC spring needs to come off (if I’m not mixing up posts) but that doesn’t fix the lever ratio issues.
I don’t need an OC spring on my clutch. No one should be running a clutch that needs one.
My point is the diaphragm cover drives like a toggle switch with OE linkage.
It gets marginally better if you rework the linkage.
FWIW you have to correct the ratios using a B&B/Long cover too, but those are almost unobtainable any more.
And since the birth control cover is cheaper to manufacture and the marketing behind that garbage is massive, it’s damn near impossible to overcome the inertia it has.
So I say piss on it and buy it and live with it be a the Karen’s come out in full force if you expose the issues with their golden idol.
Which is why I recommended Kentucky Clutch. They can build a custom pressure plate to your specs.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
That got roundly poo-poo’d like it always does.
We’ve lost every single clutch rebuilder in the PNW unless one opened up in the last three years.
That’s a shame.
Here you bees.
Home | Kentucky Clutch | Car, Tractor & Truck Clutch Repair & Kits
Need a rebuild? We have new and refurbished clutch kits for cars, trucks, diesel applications, dragsters, and more! Call Us Today!
kyclutch.com
Yeah, the oc spring left the conversation a bit ago. Now we're talking about finger leverage, spring pressure and bias and so on. Call Kentucky Clutch if you need something custom. I THINK that's who my dirt track friends use. And I'm talkin about $100K plus super modified cars.
I had the same issue (I think) and came up with my own solution. I didn’t want to remove the OC spring. There’s usually more than one solution to a problem.
Post in thread 'Clutch Pedal Return'
Clutch Pedal Return
Post in thread 'Clutch Pedal Return'
Clutch Pedal Return
-
