Is there an electric choke conversion for a six pack setup???

-
monkstur said:
Stay after it man, I would be interested in one for sure
Click to expand...
Maybe you can answer a question, on an average day, let’s say outdoor temps in the 70s. How long would it take for that type of choke to normally come off? Since it’s working off of coolant, I’ve never owned anything with that style choke, only manual or electric. Thanks!!
 
In a pure stock setup, they come off pretty quick. I've never timed one but actually coolant has nothing to do with it. In a working factory setup, the heat riser is closed at startup forcing exhaust through the crossover in the intake. It's the hot exhaust that heats up the choke. The stock setup was problematic from the beginning though and that's why they went to an electric assist in the later models
 
To me, the 6 minutes you are sitting on should be close.
 
1st prototype almost complete.

09C8518E-65ED-4392-A382-3B1E4E7C1B74.jpeg


E436A568-3F40-44C3-836C-BD86E4D102C6.jpeg


894EE796-BFE3-40A0-9BBD-F3243E9CE222.jpeg
 
I know this is an old thread, but I'm dying to know how your choke setup worked out.
 
On second thought, why not just run a manual choke? In my location, a choke isn't really needed, but a cable operated choke with an adjustable fast idle would be nice. I'm thinking I may remove the choke blade ad just use the mechanism to run the fast idle.
 
frosty_the_punk said:
That timer might work when you start a cold motor, however it will also work when you start a hot motor.

Not a very good solution in my opinion.
Click to expand...
To each his own, I guess. The timer has nothing to do with applying the choke on a hot motor. There is more than enough ambient heat in a hot motor to keep the choke spring fully relaxed for hot starting purposes. The system described in the moparts link is still functioning perfectly as designed 13 years now. Have done several of them and shared the design many folks. Certainly, a lot less effort than some other solutions proposed here in this thread.
 
I am running a 6pack on my Dart with Trick Flow aluminum heads, these heads have no heat crossover. Guess what, my stock choke functions just like it should if it had steel heads with a crossover. So why go through all of the trouble changing over? If mine works, so should yours, block it off and see what happens.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I am running a 6pack on my Dart with Trick Flow aluminum heads, these heads have no heat crossover. Guess what, my stock choke functions just like it should if it had steel heads with a crossover. So why go through all of the trouble changing over? If mine works, so should yours, block it off and see what happens.
Click to expand...
So, by your experience, all the posters and respondents to this and the linked threads here, numerus other articles and postings on the subject, don’t know what they’re talking about? The issue being addressed doesn’t exist, really? The rate of spring relaxation on a correctly calibrated six-pack choke rheostat is not affected at all by the lack of cross-over heat at the choke well?
 
What I am saying, my choke as stated, works just fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top