68gtxman
I used to reMember
True, but he needs 12/3 plus ground to go with the higher voltage to the power outlet being used (or directly to the compressor).
Is there any way to test a breaker?
- Thread starter Revhendo
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12 guage wire is only rated for 110 at 20a!!
adriver
Blazing Apostle
I'm guessing it's this with a 20 amp breaker.
12/2 with ground.
Upgrading to 230 it should be fine.
The motor will actually pull less.
(I know. Romex is like Kleenex. It was easy to pull up)
They probably calculated in the power factor which takes the product of the volts times the amps and then multiples it by the P.F. (usually 75% to 85% depending on the motor). This calculates in any and all other losses the motor is subjected to. It's actually pretty honest practice on behalf of the compressor company. Most of them were measuring peak to peak current on initial inrush, thus producing a higher number. They were then marketing the compressor as something that it wasn't. There was a class action suit and everyone that bought a compressor in a certain time frame was awarded $1.53 for thei grief and misery the compressor shysters caused them.
20 amps is 20 amps regardless of voltage. Most wire you buy has a 600v rating but that's only for the insulation properties.
Moving right along, there's a couple issues that could be going on here. One is the breaker. Breakers do wear out over time depending on usage. They shouldn't, but they do. To answer your question directly, there is ways to test breakers. Nobody does this, but there is ways to test them. The reason they don't is because they're only about fifteen bucks, so they just replace them.
Second is the temperature in the garage or shop. If it's cold your oil or the grease inside your sealed bearings is going to thicken up and create more resistance than normal. This will increase the current drawn.
Third is your electrical connections. Check them all inside and outside the panel and make sure they're tight.
68gtxman
I used to reMember
More like this:
You can picture it as if it were one common neutral wire and two hots plus a ground. You can picture it as two separate 20 amp breakers that are tied together at the switch with one of each hot wires going to a different breaker. though I always recommend buying the manufactured dual breakers for 240 volt single phase use.
And HEY, I AGREED WITH LEADFOOT!!!
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adriver
Blazing Apostle
Must be something I don't understand.
Isn't the first time.
Won't be the last time.
Why Do 240V Circuits Not Require Neutral?
Therefore, if a device requires only 240V, only two ungrounded (hot) conductors are required to supply the device. If a device runs on 120V, one ungrounded (hot) conductor and one grounded (neutral) conductor are needed. If a device needs both 120V and 240V, then two ungrounded (hot) conductors and one grounded (neutral) conductor must be used.
Identifying House Electric Wiring Colors | DoItYourself.com
In some instances a white wire may be marked with a piece of black electrical tape at its ends. A white wire that has been marked with black means it's acting as a hot wire and is no longer neutral.
68gtxman
I used to reMember
You are correct sir. Two hot wires, one shared neutral equals 3 wires (plus another for the safety ground) equals 4 wires total. That is IF you still need the neutral. Think of it this way: if you ran two 120v circuits (equals 240 volts), you would need two hots and two neutrals plus two grounds (6 total wires). If you ran one 240v circuit, you would need one less neutral and one less ground = 4 wires. But if you only need 240 volts, only two hots and a ground would be needed in reality.
That was really complicated. Let's just say that the two 120V legs are 180 degrees out of phase with the other. Therefore they use each other for the return.
adriver
Blazing Apostle
So.
Everyone that actually goes to the trouble of marking the white wire in 220 residential installations, raise your hands.
Everyone that actually goes to the trouble of marking the white wire in 220 residential installations, raise your hands.
68gtxman
I used to reMember
Nice explanation Lead!
Adriver, you may need a neutral in a 240v service if the device you are supporting requires it. For example a hot tub. Some hot tubs can be wired as either 120 or 240. But if you go with 240, it may still need the neutral to support internal controllers or other devices (blowers, lighting, etc.) that still need to be run on 120v. Some electric dryers need both 120 and 240 too, for the same reason.
adriver
Blazing Apostle
adriver
Blazing Apostle
Thanks amigo. I still gotta check on what I have in there.
I sorta got sidetracked by this...
Figures, don't it?
There is a joke a about blowing out rubber in here somewhere.
Let me know on the wire.
Let me know on the wire.
So, here's the UPDATE!
Sorry for the delay, had to go and buy a new tire, put a hull under the house in case of flooding, keep the dog from eating my computer mouse when I'm in the garage....
You know, the usual stuff.
I converted the motor and plug to 240/50a. The compressor screams like a demon now. Restart is like a snap now. It never behaved that way on 120. I may still have to replace the 120 breaker out of GP, but it only gets stressed if I use my welder.
Thank you everybody for all of your input.
Sorry for the delay, had to go and buy a new tire, put a hull under the house in case of flooding, keep the dog from eating my computer mouse when I'm in the garage....
You know, the usual stuff.
I converted the motor and plug to 240/50a. The compressor screams like a demon now. Restart is like a snap now. It never behaved that way on 120. I may still have to replace the 120 breaker out of GP, but it only gets stressed if I use my welder.
Thank you everybody for all of your input.
Brewzer67
Well-Known Member
Another question I haven't seen asked yet is what kind of breaker the OP is using. We just built a new house a few year's back and have a bunch of these stupid breakers that sense a spark in the line and blow really easy. They are different in appearance in that the have a small yellow button on them. I had to replace multiple already as I couldn't even run a vacuum with them. I swapped out new ones and have been fine for a while now. My electrician told me they are junk and recommended going to a regular breaker.
MiradaMegaCab
Well-Known Member
Rev, you're using a 50amp breaker?
The motor nameplate has a 7.5amp running load@240V?
The motor nameplate has a 7.5amp running load@240V?
The plug on the compressor was converted to a 240/50a type to match the outlet. The breaker itself is a dual pole 40 amp
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