Is this a good street setup for hauling butt? (new info)

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1970dartcustom

1970dartcustom

of the Moore clan
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1970 Dart with stockish suspension... Its a 383, 727, 8 3/4, 742 suregrip, 323 gears in rear atm, and I have 2800 stall, and 27 diameter rear tires, 255's... Also, Shumacher headers...
With 750 edelbrock carb, Street dominator holly aluminum intake, stealth aluminum heads (just looked over and squared), light weight anything possible (aluminum radiator and water pump housing, etc), Comp Cam 274 extreme energy (4.9 lift/hydraulic), 9.1 - 9.3 compression (current estimation), stock gaskets, etc...

So, this is a pretty good setup? We have it all mostly together, was just wondering what smallish tweaks or changes we might do that would create a noticeable benefit...

Or even what things u might change in the future for when this car gets gone all through again?
 
I think I would make sure you have disc brakes in the front, and keep it stable either by better than stock torsion bars/add a stabilizer bar.
For the drivetrain, I think I would like a 750 dp Holley on it. Obviously, your not going for gas mileage here.....
 
Sounds a lot like the setup in my 68 GTS. Although I am using 906 heads and stock ex manifolds, since it's an original car. Mine also 727, 3;23 sure grip. I did use an RPM performer and painted it turquoise along with the engine. I'm using a 750DP. I measured 9.7 comp on my set up. I'm using a dual pattern Howards camshaft with 272/282 dur and 513/538 lift to help get the exhaust though the stock manifolds. I'ts in the car and sounds good, but haven't really driven it yet. No front sheet metal on yet. Soon to be remedied !!
 
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I think the only way you can go wrong with a 383 is if you got scammed into buying a small block chebby
 
318willrun said:
I think I would make sure you have disc brakes in the front, and keep it stable either by better than stock torsion bars/add a stabilizer bar.
For the drivetrain, I think I would like a 750 dp Holley on it. Obviously, your not going for gas mileage here.....
Click to expand...
Yes, I have small bolt pattern disc brakes up front and drum in the rear... The torsion bars are the original slant six ones, but with all the aluminum parts up front I think I am almost the same weight in the nose...

Although, I probably should put new ones on anyhow... The front end is all rebuilt with new parts to stock configuration, besides the torsion bars...

I also have a torque strap on the motor...

Stabilizer bar? Like a sway bar? I have one that came with some other parts I traded for, but haven't thought much about it yet...
 
1970dartcustom said:
1970 Dart with stockish suspension... Its a 383, 727, 8 3/4, 742 suregrip, 323 gears in rear atm, and I have 2800 stall, and 27 diameter rear tires, 255's... Also, Shumacher headers...
With 750 edelbrock carb, Street dominator holly aluminum intake, stealth aluminum heads (just looked over and squared), light weight anything possible (aluminum radiator and water pump housing, etc), Comp Cam 274 extreme energy (4.9 lift/hydraulic), 9.1 - 9.3 compression (current estimation), stock gaskets, etc...

So, this is a pretty good setup? We have it all mostly together, was just wondering what smallish tweaks or changes we might do that would create a noticeable benefit...

Or even what things u might change in the future for when this car gets gone all through again?
Click to expand...
Setup looks good, what are your intended goals with it? Kinda hard to know where to improve it if you don't have a end goal.. Stealth heads ootb leave a lot on the table.. but are a pinch better than stock heads. If you have factory flat tops, better check piston to valve clearance if you haven't had it running.

It'll be making around 1hp per cube for sure but may be leaving power on the table with the ede carb.. My first motor build was similar but a smaller cam.. the new motor makes 460hp, but may make more with the new carb

If you're not concerned with handling leave the slant 6 torsion bars.. My Demon handles fine with them, and no sway bar. But it is setup as a stock interior street driven drag car with no cage.

If you're shooting for a street bruiser I'd install a Holley based 750, 3.55's or 3.73's, and 255/60 drag radials.. and you'll still struggle for traction.. but you'll still be able to drive down the highway for short bursts as well..

If you're remotely curious about my setup here it is.. can see pics in my build thread..

71 HP 383 .030" (dyno'd 460hp)
KB 5cc dome pistons (10.5-11:1 compression)
Comp 280H cam
Stealth heads with full Comp valvetrain, and good porting done
Crane gold 1.6 rockers
Unported Performer RPM
1/2" 4 hole spacer
Quickfuel 750HP
2" TTi under chassis headers
3" X pipe, 3" Dynomax Ultraflows dumped
stock A727 w/ Transgo shift kit, and 4.2 band lever
B body 741 case 8 3/4 w/ 3.73's
275/60 Nitto drag radials

Suspension is stock based -
B body 11" front disc's / 10" drums
slant torsion bars
QA1 K member/arms/strut rods
Mopar SS rear springs
Mopar offset hangers/shackles
Adjustable shocks

Machinist said I left about 40hp from the small cam, and I'm sure the unported intake left a few hp as well on the table.. but the sucker drives great, super quick, and just boils the drag radials thru 1st and most of 2nd gear hahaha
 
zac_F71 said:
Setup looks good, what are your intended goals with it? Kinda hard to know where to improve it if you don't have a end goal.. Stealth heads ootb leave a lot on the table.. but are a pinch better than stock heads. If you have factory flat tops, better check piston to valve clearance if you haven't had it running.

It'll be making around 1hp per cube for sure but may be leaving power on the table with the ede carb.. My first motor build was similar but a smaller cam.. the new motor makes 460hp, but may make more with the new carb

If you're not concerned with handling leave the slant 6 torsion bars.. My Demon handles fine with them, and no sway bar. But it is setup as a stock interior street driven drag car with no cage.

If you're shooting for a street bruiser I'd install a Holley based 750, 3.55's or 3.73's, and 255/60 drag radials.. and you'll still struggle for traction.. but you'll still be able to drive down the highway for short bursts as well..

If you're remotely curious about my setup here it is.. can see pics in my build thread..

71 HP 383 .030" (dyno'd 460hp)
KB 5cc dome pistons (10.5-11:1 compression)
Comp 280H cam
Stealth heads with full Comp valvetrain, and good porting done
Crane gold 1.6 rockers
Unported Performer RPM
1/2" 4 hole spacer
Quickfuel 750HP
2" TTi under chassis headers
3" X pipe, 3" Dynomax Ultraflows dumped
stock A727 w/ Transgo shift kit, and 4.2 band lever
B body 741 case 8 3/4 w/ 3.73's
275/60 Nitto drag radials

Suspension is stock based -
B body 11" front disc's / 10" drums
slant torsion bars
QA1 K member/arms/strut rods
Mopar SS rear springs
Mopar offset hangers/shackles
Adjustable shocks

Machinist said I left about 40hp from the small cam, and I'm sure the unported intake left a few hp as well on the table.. but the sucker drives great, super quick, and just boils the drag radials thru 1st and most of 2nd gear hahaha
Click to expand...
So, I can leave slant 6 torsion bars.
That's good.

I think I am gonna just run it the way it is get all the kinks worked out, and then after I some cosmetics I am gonna want more compression and hp, ported heads, wider rear tires, and maybe change the carb...

What's a good way to increase the compression without huge changes to my setup? My compression is pretty low at like 9.1- 9.3 right now...
 
1970dartcustom said:
So, I can leave slant 6 torsion bars.
That's good.

I think I am gonna just run it the way it is get all the kinks worked out, and then after I some cosmetics I am gonna want more compression and hp, ported heads, wider rear tires, and maybe change the carb...

What's a good way to increase the compression without huge changes to my setup? My compression is pretty low at like 9.1- 9.3 right now...
Click to expand...
Ya it will likely float like a Cadillac down the road in the front, but give excellent response for weight transfer. I like mine as is as well even with 165/80 front runners it handles decent if not about the same as if it had the slant 6 in it. If you don't have shim head gaskets that's a cheap way to get 1/2 a point in compression, those with copper gasket spray, and a check of the piston to valve clearance before starting it will help a little..

Gears are a cheap way to make it drive better as well I had 3.23's originally and sold them for $100 after the swap to 3.73's as I got a killer deal on a Hughes 3500 stall from a FABO member
 
zac_F71 said:
Ya it will likely float like a Cadillac down the road in the front, but give excellent response for weight transfer. I like mine as is as well even with 165/80 front runners it handles decent if not about the same as if it had the slant 6 in it. If you don't have shim head gaskets that's a cheap way to get 1/2 a point in compression, those with copper gasket spray, and a check of the piston to valve clearance before starting it will help a little..

Gears are a cheap way to make it drive better as well I had 3.23's originally and sold them for $100 after the swap to 3.73's as I got a killer deal on a Hughes 3500 stall from a FABO member
Click to expand...
Yeah, I heard about using a super thin gasket, and then I'd prolly hafta put a bit shorter pushrods in aye?
 
if your heads are closed chamber and your pistons are flat top, you want between .043" and .034" of squish/quench clearance.

run the 3.55 gears as suggested and 10.0 compression.

if you run vacuum secondaries, tune the secondaries with different springs until it runs best.

set your timing curve so it is optimum for your engine.
.
 
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