Just another build thread - Sort my combo!

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I had forgotten about the ones in those applications with the large bore Webers and Autolite in line four barrels. Being somewhat one track minded in Moparland I was thinking of ChryCo’s attempts with the D5 Hemi heads and pro stock Holley Dominators. Of course, an IR Hilborn Hemi stack injection Hemi makes a good deal more horsepower than carburetors over a plenum, but the last one I saw in person was rated at 3800 CFM.
I know all the recommendations are for smaller sized carburetors, and that is sound advice for a mostly street build. If funding would allow for it, I would be looking at a pair of small AVS2’s. Atomizing fuel is paramount to street driving with a tunnel ram. But if performance is your goal, nothing else will come close to a pair of sideways mounted 750 DP carbs. On any TR, run your linkage at direct 1:1 front to rear.
 
So I'm finally moved in to the new shop!

garage.jpg


or at least my half of it :p

I'm curious about a sort of DIY hot tank using lye. I've heard of folks dropping parts in a bath of drain cleaner (or some other form of sodium hydroxide) and water over heat. Anyone tried something like this? Looks like some folks setup an electrolysis bath and others just use crystal drano or something similar.

I can always run by a local machine shop, but I dont have my own truck anymore and i've been interested in this process so I thought i'd give it a shot!
 
Doable, but hazardous. I do sometimes on a small scale. How large of parts are you wanting to clean? And the waste from it is another matter altogether. Lots of protective eye wear and long rubber gloves, and a chemical apron at minimum. Keep a couple of 2 liters of seven up handy to neutralize spills or accidental contact. You cannot be too careful with this stuff, it’s one of the worst chemical burns you can get. Sodium hydroxide works best on petroleum greases and oils, the potassium hydroxide is more used to emulsify animal fats and grease. So you are correct to use bulk crystalline caustic soda. The saturation point in water is a fifty percent solution (2 parts water by weight to one part caustic) which will eat cam bearings and aluminum anything. And you want to keep it around 120 degrees or better when it’s being used. If it’s for cylinder heads and smaller items you could make a smaller tank and get a couple of old tabletop stoves to set it on. When it gets grimy, skim out all the solids and mix with kitty litter and oil dry before bagging for disposal in garbage. Best way to buy caustic:
https://www.amazon.com/Devil-Sodium...ocphy=9008804&hvtargid=pla-599365912964&psc=1
 
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