Just as slow as before mods..
- Thread starter Steve Mcbean
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In that case I suspect the gasket is probably no sealing, or the lock ring is fubared.
That's probably the problem right there, they used the aftermarket lock ring.
Ask on here if someone has an original fuel sending unit lock ring that you can buy.
☆☆☆☆☆
Steve Mcbean
Well-Known Member
You nailed it. When driving on the freeway, it upshifts a lot into drive if at a certain RPM.
Steve Mcbean
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An original will fit the new one? I'm gonna post it, see what happens. Thanks
I had a Lokar cable setup on my 75 Dart that I removed and went back to the original style linkage, they work ok when properly adjusted, but the original stuff works better IMO. Problem of course is it's getting harder every day to find these parts.
Yes, the original lock rings fit the new gas tanks.
(and holds the sending unit in.)
The aftermarket lock rings do not fit the the new gas tanks.
Steve Mcbean
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It used to be worse. I bought a supposedly better setup with that bracket you see in the pic, but not much better.
junkyardhero
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if you're leaking fuel and the tank is new, i'd suspect the fuel neck tank grommet or the sending unit gasket.
www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com
www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com
also, obviously, if you have any type of aux fuel pump check all the lines. sounds like these dudes were sloppy or lazy or both so it might just be loose fitting/clamps. thankfully all of that is easily remedied.
Mopar A Body 67-76, B Body 64-69, 71-74 B & C Body 64-73 Fuel Gas Tank Grommet 2203472 2880481
Detroit Muscle Technologies, LLC Mopar restoration gaskets
www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com
Mopar 57-78 Sending Unit to Gas Tank Seal and SS Lock Ring Locking Retainer
Detroit Muscle Technologies, LLC Mopar restoration gaskets
www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com
also, obviously, if you have any type of aux fuel pump check all the lines. sounds like these dudes were sloppy or lazy or both so it might just be loose fitting/clamps. thankfully all of that is easily remedied.
Can try this new lock ring and new gasket from ALS499 out of Zumbrota Minnesota. He is a good mopar parts seller, have had good luck with all his products in the past. 100% positive rating.
Ebay:
I doubt Al would be selling these if they did not fit the new tanks properly. He knows his mopars.
Ebay:
I doubt Al would be selling these if they did not fit the new tanks properly. He knows his mopars.
Like the look of that OEM style gas tank lock ring from Detroit Muscle, proper OEM thickness.if you're leaking fuel and the tank is new, i'd suspect the fuel neck tank grommet or the sending unit gasket.
Mopar A Body 67-76, B Body 64-69, 71-74 B & C Body 64-73 Fuel Gas Tank Grommet 2203472 2880481
Detroit Muscle Technologies, LLC Mopar restoration gaskets
Mopar 57-78 Sending Unit to Gas Tank Seal and SS Lock Ring Locking Retainer
Detroit Muscle Technologies, LLC Mopar restoration gaskets
also, obviously, if you have any type of aux fuel pump check all the lines. sounds like these dudes were sloppy or lazy or both so it might just be loose fitting/clamps. thankfully all of that is easily remedied.
Steve Mcbean
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You guys piled on a wealth of info. I'm gonna stop talking so that they don't get lost in a long thread. Gonna start with carb, then tank. Thanks
junkyardhero
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yeah, they work great. i was having a problem with some seepage on a car that i had put a new sending unit in and i just went for the gasket and ring kit full stop. somebody here turned me on to them.
now i just go straight away with them on any install-- no sense in messing around with trying to hunt down the correct thickness gasket or bending an aftermarket tab to half *** work. their stuff is on the money right out of the gate.
Steve Mcbean
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Any suggestions on testing for leakage before mounting tank back?
You should be able to see if the lock ring/sending unit is leaking just by jacking it up, no reason to drop the tank. Even if it is leaking from the filler neck grommet that can be remedied without dropping the tank, access possible through the trunk under the mat.
junkyardhero
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linc hit it on the head. you should be able to visually ascertain what and where the leak is coming from; and it's not necessary to drop the tank to R&R either of those.
Steve Mcbean
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Any sugestions how to get the fuel gauge working right?. The dash is an Autometer. Last mechanic who socalled fixwd it, filled it w gas 3/4 and it stayed that way. I have to check fuel with a hose down the tank.
junkyardhero
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check the ground on the gauge and at the sender. if i had to bet i'd put money on it being loose on the sender.
One thing that jumps out at me from the pictures of your engine, Steve, is how really close the vacuum advance on the distributor is to the intake manifold. I have to wonder if it has all the initial advance it needs. Have you ever checked the initial timing? If you don't have a timing light, I'd suggest getting one. Even a nice digital dial back light is pretty reasonable these days.
WOW
My best advice to the OP is to find an excellent old school mechanical shop. Even if you have to pay to haul it to them on a flat bed, it's WAY better than casting around here with the depth of the mismatch in parts.. They can go through the car, make the best of what you have and then suggest some alternatives to make it better.
If it goes up for sale somebody savy here is going to pick it up, fix all the little glitches and then put a serious small block in front of that 518 and Dana!
My best advice to the OP is to find an excellent old school mechanical shop. Even if you have to pay to haul it to them on a flat bed, it's WAY better than casting around here with the depth of the mismatch in parts.. They can go through the car, make the best of what you have and then suggest some alternatives to make it better.
If it goes up for sale somebody savy here is going to pick it up, fix all the little glitches and then put a serious small block in front of that 518 and Dana!
Haven't read 5 pages, so might have already been mentioned:
- chirping tyres requires low end tq
- headers with too large primaries will kill low end tq & even correct size pipes does not guarantee a power increase...
- as will a cam that is too big...
- alum intake does mean more low end tq
- the bigger diff might have consumed the small hp increase in friction
- chirping tyres requires low end tq
- headers with too large primaries will kill low end tq & even correct size pipes does not guarantee a power increase...
- as will a cam that is too big...
- alum intake does mean more low end tq
- the bigger diff might have consumed the small hp increase in friction
Steve Mcbean
Well-Known Member
Its listed on Auto Trader
you would probably do a lot better listing it here!
So you're just going to give up? What about your next challenge? Car or otherwise? I'm not trying to be smart, it's a serious question.
The members here have been too polite. The way I see it, this is a clear example of the following:
A fool and his money are soon parted.
You spent money that you couldn't afford to lose on a car you didn't need and that you can't fix. You know little about cars, don't want to learn and don't want to spend more.
24 thousand dollars? That is an expensive lesson.
Sell it for whatever you can get and find a cheaper hobby.
A fool and his money are soon parted.
You spent money that you couldn't afford to lose on a car you didn't need and that you can't fix. You know little about cars, don't want to learn and don't want to spend more.
24 thousand dollars? That is an expensive lesson.
Sell it for whatever you can get and find a cheaper hobby.
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