Kelsey-Hayes Hub to Rotor

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matthon

matthon

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I have a 64 Fury with the tapered axle.
The wheel studs are pressed through the back of the hub and brake drum, and it is attached to the axle with one nut.

To r&r the rear brakes, one has to pull the entire hub/drum assembly off. Although the bolt comes off with ease, getting the hub off the axle can sometimes be challenging, to say the least, destroy the drum, and generally be annoying if you need access or want to swap on new drums.

One solution, which I did, is to replace the wheel studs with ones that only press into the hub, a shorter knurl, with 65 drums.
The center hole on the drum locates it on the hub, same as before, and one can just pull the drums off and on by hand, without pulling the hub.

KH is obviously reversed, with the rotor on the inside and the hub on the outside.

Could the same principle be applied by using a stud with a shorter knurl?

It seems it would be easier to get the studs out of the rotor alone, based on the fun I had separating them last time.

Just curious as I couldn't find this question raised already.

Kicking it around just for fun; lugs loose, but if you're wheel is coming off already that's another issue, same applies to some disc setups where the rotor just slides on the front, the hub should center the rotor, might he easier to knock the studs out and use again, but they're cheap new.

Always trying to think outside of the box, new ways of doing things, whatever you want to call it.

Going to separate the ones I pulled off my car years ago, not looking forward to it.
Sticking with the KH and sbp.

Pics from the interweb.

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I've used that on 2 cars, a 62 and a 64.
One side of my 64 the drum was destroyed, it would not come off, puller, heat, bfh, nothing worked. Someone suggested I put it back together with the nut loose and drive around. I wouldn't do that, but it didn't run at the time and the drum was already deformed.
Took 8 hours to get off, and the pop it made was a sound I've never heard.
 
matthon said:
I've used that on 2 cars, a 62 and a 64.
One side of my 64 the drum was destroyed, it would not come off, puller, heat, bfh, nothing worked. Someone suggested I put it back together with the nut loose and drive around. I wouldn't do that, but it didn't run at the time and the drum was already deformed.
Took 8 hours to get off, and the pop it made was a sound I've never heard.
Click to expand...
Well, not saying you didn't or don't know how, but proper use of that puller is paramount. I've pulled some flanges off that were in a car that had sat since the late 50s. They didn't come right off, but they came off. Tighten the spanner, strike the anvils tight with a hammer, then strike the center screw. Rinse and repeat. I've just never failed with that method, and my puller has minimal wear.
 
i just banged the ***** out the studs with a big hammer before soaking them with pb blaster hitting each lug time, them put the new rotor on putting the wheel on the hub and tightening while pulling the studs threw the hubs, i probably wouldnt do it like that again im lucking i didnt bend a hub. Wish i would of just did that scarebird swap instead lol.
 
Agree on the method. Borrowed tool from an older mopar fanatic who schooled me, many times.
Can't explain it, shoes were loose, brakes free beforehand. I searched for an aftermath pic, as I took many, unable to find one.
One side on my 62 took slightly more effort, but no big deal.
 
matthon said:
Agree on the method. Borrowed tool from an older mopar fanatic who schooled me, many times.
Can't explain it, shoes were loose, brakes free beforehand. I searched for an aftermath pic, as I took many, unable to find one.
One side on my 62 took slightly more effort, but no big deal.
Click to expand...
Oh I can imagine. I've seen similar carnage. lol
 
Slantsix64 said:
i just banged the ***** out the studs with a big hammer before soaking them with pb blaster hitting each lug time, them put the new rotor on putting the wheel on the hub and tightening while pulling the studs threw the hubs, i probably wouldnt do it like that again im lucking i didnt bend a hub. Wish i would of just did that scarebird swap instead lol.
Click to expand...
Well see, that's the caveman style. I take an air chisel with a sharp pointed insert and pop each stud right in the center. Doesn't take much at all and I can even reuse the studs.
 
My first car/love was a 64 Polara 500. I had the most difficult time taking the rear drums off whenever the axle key would deform from too many burnouts. The the top half of the key would be moved slightly in relation to the bottom half and not allow the drum to be removed. I used a puller, heat, and a BFH to get it to budge. I bought extra keys and replaced them as soon as I could see deformation which made the removal of the drum much easier.
 
Getting back to our regularly scheduled program, any input on whether the tapered axle 65 drum swap method could be modified and applied to KH?
 
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