Kickdown apply lever

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opus65

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Trying, like many I have read here, to remove a 2-3 shift overlap in a 727 that had a kit put in it years ago. The tranny was originally from a C-body after the introduction of the partial downshift. Used this tranny to possibly add a GVod someday in place of the original 65 cable shift.
Question I have: Anyone have an idea or list of which ratio levers were common to which 727 applications.. Yes, the Hemi used the 5.0 that is all I can find.
?? Thanks
 
C bodies usually have real low ratios like a 2.9... I haven't seen anything lower than that and from there they go 3.8, 4.2, 5.0.... Did you install a restrictor orifice in the high clutch feed passage with the shift improver kit? If not that may be what your problem is and as CFHJ said check the front band adjustment
 
fishy68 said:
I knew I was forgetting one in there, the 3.2
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I did not do the install. Local transmission shop handled it. I am going to see if he kept notes on it but, it was many years ago. If C-bodies use the low ratios I will assume he changed the lever. Car shifts great at WOT, but walkin' through town it clunks badly. I reckon I will have to drop the pan and see if I can read the numbers. Then, hope he stepped up to something like a 4.2 so I can look for a 3.2 or a 3.8. I don't like the idea of tapping a hole for a changeable orifice without being able to clean things correctly which means removal. I understand and like the ability to tune with the size of the orifice.
 
If a shift kit was installed, I would guess he didn’t do something right. Does the bill have what kit was installed? The tranny is only as good as the builder. Kim
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
If the band is too tight or if the orifice is too big.
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Good cal on the orifice.

opus65 said:
I did not do the install. Local transmission shop handled it. I am going to see if he kept notes on it but, it was many years ago. If C-bodies use the low ratios I will assume he changed the lever. Car shifts great at WOT, but walkin' through town it clunks badly. I reckon I will have to drop the pan and see if I can read the numbers. Then, hope he stepped up to something like a 4.2 so I can look for a 3.2 or a 3.8. I don't like the idea of tapping a hole for a changeable orifice without being able to clean things correctly which means removal. I understand and like the ability to tune with the size of the orifice.
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Some of the kits have an orifice that taps into the band apply fluid passage with a light hammer.
They don't require any drilling or Tapping as in making threads.
The valve body has to come off though, even just to check if it has an orifice in it.
 
Tranny builder is very good. As I said, it has been many years since this project got going. I have been around the builder for many years. He is very respected. Most likely the input I gave him on what I thought I would use the car for has as much to do with the way it is set up. Appreciate everyone's ideas and info here. Really wanted to know if there was a chart or list of the levers and their predominant uses and this seemed like the place to get some info. Got some, always open to ideas. Thanks
 
I would say to check the front band adjustment. And with it clunking going slow it sounds like the front clutch is coming on sooner/faster that the 2nd gear band can release. That being said : either the front band is too tight, orifice control plug is not installed, not enough springs in the front drum or clearance or possibly something not right with the valve body or the separator plate. Kim
 
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My gut feeling has been too few springs in front clutch. I don't know if I want to dig that deep if....if a lever change might do it. Seems like here may be a few ways to correct or improve the condition. Thanks folks.
 
opus65 said:
My gut feeling has been too few springs in front clutch. I don't know if I want to dig that deep if....if a lever change might do it. Seems like here may be a few ways to correct or improve the condition. Thanks folks.
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That's a possibility but one other thing you might check if you haven't already is to pull the front servo apart and see if it has 1 or 2 springs in it (inner and outer). If it just has 1 spring in it adding a second will speed up the release of the front band
 
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