LA360 or Magnum?

[Woods74]

Yup, mine leaks because of it if I don't get the oil just right.

 

[TrailBeast]

The one thing that would put the nail in the LA engine's coffin is if Chrysler had changed the Magnum over to a one piece rear main seal design. Both Ford and Chevy did. Chrysler did not. Idiots.They did everything else though. Wider valve cover rails and more valve cover bolts. One piece oil pan gasket. There had to be some engineer somewhere that was shaking his head that they didn't go to a one piece seal. That would have been a very nice package. Still though, they ain't too bad like they are.

I have never had a problem with two piece seals.

 

[TrailBeast]

Hopefully those pictures were helpful; if you get stuck shoot me a PM!

Thank you.
I have all the equipment and tools to do just about anything but machine work., but if I do get stuck I'll holler.
Count on it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I have never had a problem with two piece seals.

Well neither have I, but they are super nice and last a LONG time. It just pissed me off Chrysler didn't follow suit and AT LEAST try to modernize a little more.

 

[TrailBeast]

Well neither have I, but they are super nice and last a LONG time. It just pissed me off Chrysler didn't follow suit and AT LEAST try to modernize a little more.

Hey they just away from rope, almost, barely, sort of, ok not.

 

[magnummopar]

Trail Beast,

I picked up a 2000 Durango 5.9 Limited and was going to do a complete OD trans FI swap into a 67 GT Vert I picked up but realistically, its bout 4th in line behind the 64 5.2 FI 44RE swap, 74 Dart GT 5 speed swap and our 68 valiant project. So, what I thought was I would just install the 5.9 FI to the brand new 904 in the 67 vert w ps, just to show how easy it really is to do a factory FI swap in just a few weekends. Perhaps that will sway you to the dark side(not GM or Furd) but FI, daily driver, dont have to pump it, 20+ mpg etc.

Just figured I have to do most of the work anyway, make a harness, install a pump in tank, fuel line kit etc. Car has new disks, 904, 8 3/4 and suspension, just knocks like hell. I am finishing up an engine build going to Reno for a 67 swept side FI swap and when done, the "new" 318 with the custom knock will be going bye bye and I will be able to have some fun at last. I will show you step by step just how easy it really is....stay tuned!

 

[TrailBeast]

Trail Beast,

I picked up a 2000 Durango 5.9 Limited and was going to do a complete OD trans FI swap into a 67 GT Vert I picked up but realistically, its bout 4th in line behind the 64 5.2 FI 44RE swap, 74 Dart GT 5 speed swap and our 68 valiant project. So, what I thought was I would just install the 5.9 FI to the brand new 904 in the 67 vert w ps, just to show how easy it really is to do a factory FI swap in just a few weekends. Perhaps that will sway you to the dark side(not GM or Furd) but FI, daily driver, dont have to pump it, 20+ mpg etc.

Just figured I have to do most of the work anyway, make a harness, install a pump in tank, fuel line kit etc. Car has new disks, 904, 8 3/4 and suspension, just knocks like hell. I am finishing up an engine build going to Reno for a 67 swept side FI swap and when done, the "new" 318 with the custom knock will be going bye bye and I will be able to have some fun at last. I will show you step by step just how easy it really is....stay tuned!

Sounds good.

"Custom knock"
The 72 with a 318 we have had a custom cam.
It had 15 lobes on it.

 

[Sedanman]

I'm waiting for the day my dad deceides to sell off his babied 99 5.9 magnum truck. The body is close to falling off

 

[tanis4457]

Is the magnum block superior to the 71-74 360 blocks? I have a 71 360 in my dart and everything I've read about them seems to point to these blocks being a little thicker. In a couple years I would like to build a motor up for auto-x or road racing so I'm curious if I should just stick with this block or go magnum. I've always heard the shaft mounted rocker system was better than the stud style but I'm open to all info. I also already have a new alternator and AC compressor for the V belt setup, I'm assuming I could keep that setup if I switched to a magnum?

 

[magnummopar]

Tanis,
The strength/hardness difference between LA and Magnum 5.9 blocks are up for debate. I prefer the Magnum, obviously, but also because they have much better gaskets, roller cam and much less wear in cylinders which may be due to block or more likely, hyereutectic pistons, moly rings and FI. The Magnum 5.9 rotating mass is lighter too. Better rev for autocross.

The shaft mounted rockers may be stronger in extreme lift cases but I have never had any issues with studs, rollers and guide plates. Stud mounted are the most common type to cross the finish line on any given race day all across the country.

You can use the LA V belt stuff if you want, look at magnumswap.com if you havent already, it gives options for installing them either way.

I used to auto cross in LA in the 80's and miss it. Building a 69 Dart HT for Autocross and Roadracing if I can only find the time....PM if you have any questions about building for A X

 

[RustyRatRod]

Is the magnum block superior to the 71-74 360 blocks? I have a 71 360 in my dart and everything I've read about them seems to point to these blocks being a little thicker. In a couple years I would like to build a motor up for auto-x or road racing so I'm curious if I should just stick with this block or go magnum. I've always heard the shaft mounted rocker system was better than the stud style but I'm open to all info. I also already have a new alternator and AC compressor for the V belt setup, I'm assuming I could keep that setup if I switched to a magnum?

I say as far as blocks go, yes, the Magnum is better. Simply because through the years, better and more refined casting methods have been implemented. As for heads, maybe not so much. They thinned them out so badly, that they are prone to cracking. If you find a set that;s not cracked though, they are likely not to crack since they have been through many heat cycles, so that is at least a plus.

 

[Infecteddog]

Because it's a roller, or because the newer metals and machining?
Both, and/or more?

I thought by the time this day came I wouldn't have a doubt in the world what I was going to do, but now that it's here... If the trans is from a Dodge truck then quit overthinking it and buy it already. The Jeep trans has a more limited market.

Say, I'll listen.

Better rocker ratio. All of the head flow, more compression. (not 8:1) Better mill to grow from. (roller block stock, but not an 8:1 dog like the LA roller motors)

I considered the trans also, but don't really need it and the FI is just more BS that I'm not ready to deal with on a car I need almost every day.
If I could find a long block LA engine for a good price it would so be in there.

Other than that I'll go ahead with a carbed magnum since that can all be dealt with over time on a stand and dropped in on a weekend day.
I think about the biggest change I can deal with at the time is the Mag engine and serpentine system.
I would definitely keep the FI system and computer if it comes with it though, as I might decide to do it at a later time.

Think about it like this- when's the last time you saw a 360 LRE/E58 motor for $250 with low miles complete? Chances are your cheap E58 would need a lean-burn conversion. Most 360s were 2bbls or dogs with little cams that made 40+ less HP than a Magnum 318.

Is the magnum block superior to the 71-74 360 blocks? I have a 71 360 in my dart and everything I've read about them seems to point to these blocks being a little thicker. In a couple years I would like to build a motor up for auto-x or road racing so I'm curious if I should just stick with this block or go magnum. I've always heard the shaft mounted rocker system was better than the stud style but I'm open to all info. I also already have a new alternator and AC compressor for the V belt setup, I'm assuming I could keep that setup if I switched to a magnum?

Yes. It has roller cam provisions factory. (you aren't breaking the block if you're not throwing hundreds of HP of boost thru it or having a massive tune hiccup)

Tanis,
The strength/hardness difference between LA and Magnum 5.9 blocks are up for debate. I prefer the Magnum, obviously, but also because they have much better gaskets, roller cam and much less wear in cylinders which may be due to block or more likely, hyereutectic pistons, moly rings and FI. The Magnum 5.9 rotating mass is lighter too. Better rev for autocross.
X

It actually wouldn't surprise me if it's because the trucks sold much better and were sold to more people who you know- actually changed the oil after the first few years.

I'd like to see LA vs Magnum shoot out. But ya stock long block Magnum seems to have the advantage, LA seem to port better though.

Magnum is the best bang for the buck

Basically. Magnum heads flow as good, the 318s have better cams, the 360s have more compression, all a very nice gain.

I say as far as blocks go, yes, the Magnum is better. Simply because through the years, better and more refined casting methods have been implemented. As for heads, maybe not so much. They thinned them out so badly, that they are prone to cracking. If you find a set that;s not cracked though, they are likely not to crack since they have been through many heat cycles, so that is at least a plus.

The stock radiators were crap in the new body trucks. Most split under 100k. Can't drive something with all the water leaked out of it and not worry about cracking or warping the heads.