dustya_383
Well-Known Member
when using the lakewood scatter shield in my 74 duster with a small block, i can use the A body 12 1/2 inch clutch fork correct?
lakewood bellhousing question
- Thread starter dustya_383
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1wild&crazyguy
Banned
you use the regular a body clutch fork, but you'll need to stiffen or fab your own pivot bracket since the lake wood pivot bracket pad does not completely support th brackets base and ends up bending and cracking, especially with a HD pressure plate.
I made my own out of 1/4 steel.
I made my own out of 1/4 steel.
dustya_383
Well-Known Member
whould you happen to have a picture of yours??
dustya_383
Well-Known Member
on second thought the after market bracket i bought is about a 1/4 inch thick ill post a picture in a few min
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
Its in the car.
but I can show you a pic of a stock pivot that kept cracking and bending .
dustya_383
Well-Known Member
Yes if you can please show me a cracked stock one thanks
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
fyi This a brewers pivot bracket.
and nobody ever mentions this issue...
The issue with lakewood scatter shield/pivot bracket is that the pad that pivot bracket sits on is not wide enough and dose not support the entire base of the bracket, so the bracket hangs off the pad right below the pivot where it see the most load...bad designing in that area.
so where the pivot hangs off, it cracks and then you have no more pedal once the bracket go's from a 90* to almost flat.
This one i had repaired 3 times with the last time adding the lil rod to try and keep the thing from collapsing.
if you look at the 1st pic you'll see that one of the reinforcement webs had cracked so I welded it, then the other cracked...you can barely see them in the pic but they are there and look like cracks in a snickers bar as you break it in half, all spidered out...it was after the second cracking that I added the tie across....didn't work either so I made my own out of 1/4 steel.
and nobody ever mentions this issue...
The issue with lakewood scatter shield/pivot bracket is that the pad that pivot bracket sits on is not wide enough and dose not support the entire base of the bracket, so the bracket hangs off the pad right below the pivot where it see the most load...bad designing in that area.
so where the pivot hangs off, it cracks and then you have no more pedal once the bracket go's from a 90* to almost flat.
This one i had repaired 3 times with the last time adding the lil rod to try and keep the thing from collapsing.
if you look at the 1st pic you'll see that one of the reinforcement webs had cracked so I welded it, then the other cracked...you can barely see them in the pic but they are there and look like cracks in a snickers bar as you break it in half, all spidered out...it was after the second cracking that I added the tie across....didn't work either so I made my own out of 1/4 steel.
dustya_383
Well-Known Member
thank you for the pics. im no fabricator by any means but ill look and see what i can do. i have some extra steel laying around somewhere in my garage. how precise does the piece have to be??
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
It just has to fit inside the fork and have a level edge for the fork to maintain even no binding movement of the throw out bearing.
You'll wanna grind a thinner rounded edge on the bracket where the fork rests as well or with 1/4 it won't move right.fwiw
You'll wanna grind a thinner rounded edge on the bracket where the fork rests as well or with 1/4 it won't move right.fwiw
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
ya know...one remedy would be to add a heel to the brackets base on the unsupported side, just have to measure the gap.
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