Last one to post in this thread wins!

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Frodee said:
Same here I keep my scamp off the road at night.
Drove the AA truck one night and was amazed on how well the 6-volt headlights worked.
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Having a 12v alternator I re worked the head lamps with out damaging original Equipment to accept quartz lamps awesome
 
Ahoey said:
Having a 12v alternator I re worked the head lamps with out damaging original Equipment to accept quartz lamps awesome
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Was going to change the AA to 12V but I don't drive it much and not very far.
 
I got tired of chasing down loads on the generator. Blew two armature’s at $70 a piece payed for 3rd one took generator off installed alternator end of problems.
Frodee said:
Was going to change the AA to 12V but I don't drive it much and not very far.
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Ahoey said:
I got tired of chasing down loads on the generator. Blew two armature’s at $70 a piece payed for 3rd one took generator off installed alternator end of problems.
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makes sense and I'll do the same if my gen. goes bad.
 
Frodee said:
makes sense and I'll do the same if my gen. goes bad.
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If you can put a regulator on it that would help a lot. The problem as I see it is the cut out. Tried a diode didn’t help. The cut out works on load when both sides are equal it shuts generator down one bad ground this never happens
 
Ahoey said:
If you can put a regulator on it that would help a lot. The problem as I see it is the cut out. Tried a diode didn’t help. The cut out works on load when both sides are equal it shuts generator down one bad ground this never happens
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I think I have everything to change mine to 12 volts including a 1 wire alt.
I need to dig into all my parts and see what I have.
 
Frodee said:
I think I have everything to change mine to 12 volts including a 1 wire alt.
I need to dig into all my parts and see what I have.
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Lightbulbs, coil, change. Electric motors will work and last except run to fast so horn sounds funny wippers go to fast and get the modern starter drive as the original one has a hard time handling the 12v hit. Used a 6 v starter on my vw buggy On 12 v for years never a problem. You can get a step down transformer from Snider’s for your horn. Sure saved a lot of dead batteries, boosting and most importantly SWEARING LMAO
 
Ahoey said:
Lightbulbs, coil, change. Electric motors will work and last except run to fast so horn sounds funny wippers go to fast and get the modern starter drive as the original one has a hard time handling the 12v hit. Used a 6 v starter on my vw buggy On 12 v for years never a problem. You can get a step down transformer from Snider’s for your horn. Sure saved a lot of dead batteries, boosting and most importantly SWEARING LMAO
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:rofl:Yep I'm pretty good at the swearing part.
I have 2 wiper motors lying around I'll have to see what volt they are. I put the Manuel wiper on the truck just because it looks good.
 
Frodee said:
:rofl:Yep I'm pretty good at the swearing part.
I have 2 wiper motors lying around I'll have to see what volt they are. I put the Manuel wiper on the truck just because it looks good.
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If you remember Eldon Road race slot cars a 12v motor from them will mount on the field housing of a stock wiper motor the gear on the end meshes perfectly with the drive gear on the wiper transmission. Take a little fiddle fu….. but works well and except for a safety how often would a guy use it
 
1/24 I think, the bigger ones. With the woven style brushes they are 12v. Old man worked for telephone system they had huge glass batteries that were 12v for when the power would go out. he bought one home and hooked it up. You should have seen those car rip man we had fun.
 
Ahoey said:
1/24 I think, the bigger ones. With the woven style brushes they are 12v. Old man worked for telephone system they had huge glass batteries that were 12v for when the power would go out. he bought one home and hooked it up. You should have seen those car rip man we had fun.
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Hope you come over this year sometime Murray I need you to take the old truck for a drive and check out the transmission noise. Thinking of taking the top off it that holds the shifter in and do a visual on it. I might have to shim the top of the bellhousing more but not real sure.
 
B
Frodee said:
Hope you come over this year sometime Murray I need you to take the old truck for a drive and check out the transmission noise. Thinking of taking the top off it that holds the shifter in and do a visual on it. I might have to shim the top of the bellhousing more but not real sure.
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Bearings for the complete trans are available at any bearing supply probably under a $100 bucks. No loose needle bearings to deal with no syncros just remember which end of the trans the tail shaft goes on. And pop the inside seal out so bearings get lubricant and no leaks on floor.
 
Ahoey said:
B

Bearings for the complete trans are available at any bearing supply probably under a $100 bucks. No loose needle bearings to deal with no syncros just remember which end of the trans the tail shaft goes on. And pop the inside seal out so bearings get lubricant and no leaks on floor.
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Yea from the pictures that I have and instructions it looks simple enough.
 
Frodee said:
Yea from the pictures that I have and instructions it looks simple enough.
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Hardest part is getting the rear end out. And when you’re that far checking the clutch and release bearing would be a good idea also

image.jpg
 
Frodee said:
And bet it hasn't been apart in a long time. I have a 2 speed behind the tranny as well but that doesn't look too bad to take out.
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Ya if it’s built the same way no problem. Remember the trick with the sealed bearings. Bonus no metric bolts
 
Ahoey said:
Ya if it’s built the same way no problem. Remember the trick with the sealed bearings. Bonus no metric bolts
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Ahoey said:
Ya if it’s built the same way no problem. Remember the trick with the sealed bearings. Bonus no metric bolts
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Yea the sealed bearing is a good idea. Good info. thanks buddy.
I have more metric tools than SAE now, so might have to relearn how to use them. LOL
 
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