late model buckets

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modart440

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Any ideas/imput on what late model bucket seats that will fit into a 68 Dart (pro touring type build) picked up some early 90's BMW buckets (manual controls) but the tracks are to wide to fit into the factory bucket seat mounting area.(way to complicated to narrow) Anyone have 1st hand experience on what type of cars came with a narrow track arrangement similar to factory buckets.(approx 14" c/c on the track mounting holes). I don't have 500.00-1000.00 to spend on procars or similar type seats.Also any issues with sitting to high in the vehicle the BMW ones I have I'm looking out the top of the windshield almost touching the headliner.
thanks
 
I'll just throw this out there. IF you like the Beamer seats, there are aftermarket seat bases that will fit the A body. You would just need to adapt them to the seats.

If I recall, they are around 120 bucks each.
 
Hasn't someone used Neon seats? And I would think new Dart seats also

Seeing Neon seats for like $100 pair on car-part.com
 
I think I've heard that Neon seats are almost a bolt in deal.

I used 2005 Scion TC seats, the tracks were a little wide, but I cut the old benchseat "humps" out of the floor and welded in flat metal to give me a wider flat area to mount the seats.
It was a pain, but keeps the seats lower in the car. If I did it again I would just make an adapter to fit the seats to the existing floor.
 

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I'm doing the Neon seats.All the mods are done (getting recovered after body is done).The bases are wider and without mods the tracks are to high in the front and a spacer "bridge" is needed in the rear to raise them.but for the $150 it cost for four matching seats ,it was worth it.interestingly though,after the mods (rearranging the factory mounting pads are the only mods)the holes line up with the out board bucket seat holes,and only the inner holes need to be drilled and plated.the bench seat mount is a non issue with these
 
What mods did you have to do to the tracks to make them work.
Thnx
 
all of the mounting feet have to be removed and re-arranged so the offsets and heights are as close to the floor contours as possible,also it allows the outer feet to line up with thw stock bucket holes and moves the inners in to stay off the tunnel.i also had to make a riser for the rear to keep the base somewhat level. it wasn't to difficult ,the hardest part was cutting all the rivets off the feet.
 
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