Leaking 8 3/4

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340cudaman1

340cudaman1

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My 8 3/4 is leaking from the front where the driveshaft connects. I have heard SEVERAL diffrent was to fix it. They range from taking the rearend apart, messing with shims to just removing the bolts and putting on the new gasket. The leak is very small, however as we all know, it doesn't get better, it gets worse. Is this a repair I can do or will I need someone who has a LOT more knowledge than I? Any help would be appreaciated.
 

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Change the pinion seal, about 15 bucks from NAPA.

Down load the factory service manual on this site, it is easy to do.
 
I believe this depends on which carrier you have. The ones that use shims its a simple remove yoke, replace seal and retorque. Crush sleeve rears the crush sleeve should be replaced but some have gotten away without doing it. Its a gamble.
 
If it's leaking where the driveshaft connects (the yoke) why does your picture show where the carrier is bolted to the housing??? Those are different areas
 
Sorry about that, I wasn't sure what the carrier was called, that was the reason for the picture. That is what needs to be fixed.
Also, my left brake light isn't working (just happend last night). The bulb works. Any help in that area aslo would be appreaciated.
 
340cudaman1 said:
Sorry about that, I wasn't sure what the carrier was called, that was the reason for the picture. That is what needs to be fixed.
Also, my left brake light isn't working (just happend last night). The bulb works. Any help in that area aslo would be appreaciated.
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No problem. If it's the gasket in the picture that's the carrier gasket and other than having to lift the heavy beast of a 3rd member out of there is an easy fix. Just unbolt the axles and slide them out, unbolt the driveshaft and move it aside and take off the 10 retaining nuts. Pop the carrier off, remove all old gasket material and sealer (looks like it has RTV on it now), install new gasket with sealer of your choice and torque down the nuts to 35 ft. lbs. Then replace the axles and driveshaft. Note the pass side axle has an adjuster on it to set the axle end play. I shoot for .007~.010" end play. You need a dial indicator to do this. If your unfamiliar with that process go to YouTube and type in Mopar 8-3/4 axle end play adjustment and I bet you'll find several videos showing how to do it.

Is it just the brake light that's not working? Does the blinker work on that side?
 
My money is on the pinion seal is leaking. The oil/lube on the carrier is from it being blown back there when your driving. Notice it is wet before the carrier gasket.

You'll need to correct pinion seal, based on which carrier you have. The actual fix is easy, BUT you better have either a lift to get good mechanical advantage breaking that bolt loose to remove the yoke, or have an impact gun. When finished, the torque on that nut is 250 ft/lbs or greater.
 
roadrunnerh said:
My money is on the pinion seal is leaking. The oil/lube on the carrier is from it being blown back there when your driving. Notice it is wet before the carrier gasket.

You'll need to correct pinion seal, based on which carrier you have. The actual fix is easy, BUT you better have either a lift to get good mechanical advantage breaking that bolt loose to remove the yoke, or have an impact gun. When finished, the torque on that nut is 250 ft/lbs or greater.
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That's a good possibility, and it may even be both places leaking.
 
A pic of the yoke area where the driveline connects would be nice too, so we can see "The whole picture" so to speak.
 
In regards to the pinion seal- if the pumpkin is the 741 or 742 housing it is the easy remove/ replace/ retorque situation. If it is the 489 housing it will require disassembly because of the crush sleeve.
 
cu440da said:
In regards to the pinion seal- if the pumpkin is the 741 or 742 housing it is the easy remove/ replace/ retorque situation. If it is the 489 housing it will require disassembly because of the crush sleeve.
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How can I tell which housing is in my dart? I have never done any kind of
work on rearends (other than brakes).
 
If you look closer in that last pic you posted the last three numbers are right there741,742,489 but hard to make out on the computor.


340cudaman1 said:
How can I tell which housing is in my dart? I have never done any kind of
work on rearends (other than brakes).
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Hard to believe there is any lube left inside lol. I would pressure wash it first so it is a little easier to find the leak. Then I would pull the pig and drain the lube, clean the gasket surface. Replace seal if needed and use silicone sealer with out gasket as it seals better. Good luck with it.
 
340cudaman1 said:
How can I tell which housing is in my dart? I have never done any kind of
work on rearends (other than brakes).
Click to expand...

I copied and modified your picture and put a red circle around the numbers. You'll have to clean it off good to read them. The last 3 numbers of the larger set are what your interested in. Like Johnny said look for a 489, 741. or 742.

Pressure washing the entire rearend is a good idea cause right now it's such a mess it's hard to say exactly where the fluid is leaking from. Clean it up good and run it for a day then look at it again and you should be able to tell real easy what all is leaking. If it's just coming out of the yoke and it's a 741 or 742 carrier it's a real easy repair (well easy except for getting the nut loose and re-tightened cause it's torqued to 240 ft. lbs). Just remove the driveshaft and the yoke retaining nut and slide the yoke off. Clean things up, pop out the old seal and drive in a new one. Inspect the yoke good too cause sometimes it can get a groove worn where the seal rides. If that's the case there's 2 solutions. You can either replace the yoke or install a speedy sleeve that you can purchase at NAPA or any other decent auto parts supplier. I'm not crazy about speedy sleeves cause their not the easiest to get on without damaging them because their so thin. For that reason I usually just find a good used yoke. A good used yoke usually doesn't cost much more than a speedy sleeve. Yokes are interchangeable from all 3 8-3/4 rears. Just gotta get the right size and almost all A-bodies used the smaller 7260 yoke.
 

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fishy68 said:
I copied and modified your picture and put a red circle around the numbers. You'll have to clean it off good to read them. The last 3 numbers of the larger set are what your interested in. Like Johnny said look for a 489, 741. or 742.

Pressure washing the entire rearend is a good idea cause right now it's such a mess it's hard to say exactly where the fluid is leaking from. Clean it up good and run it for a day then look at it again and you should be able to tell real easy what all is leaking. If it's just coming out of the yoke and it's a 741 or 742 carrier it's a real easy repair (well easy except for getting the nut loose and re-tightened cause it's torqued to 240 ft. lbs). Just remove the driveshaft and the yoke retaining nut and slide the yoke off. Clean things up, pop out the old seal and drive in a new one. Inspect the yoke good too cause sometimes it can get a groove worn where the seal rides. If that's the case there's 2 solutions. You can either replace the yoke or install a speedy sleeve that you can purchase at NAPA or any other decent auto parts supplier. I'm not crazy about speedy sleeves cause their not the easiest to get on without damaging them because their so thin. For that reason I usually just find a good used yoke. A good used yoke usually doesn't cost much more than a speedy sleeve. Yokes are interchangeable from all 3 8-3/4 rears. Just gotta get the right size and almost all A-bodies used the smaller 7260 yoke.
Click to expand...

I'll check on those numbers after I clean the rearend and let you know.
Thank you very much for all your help. I don't know what I would have done without "For "A" Bodies Only"!
 
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