LED's?

-
No web site, I sell mostly at swap meets and some on ebay.
First pic is the 67 Dart Barracuda Coronet Satty set.
Second set is for 68 Dart Cuda Roadrunner etc.
And Third set is for 70 Roadrunners Challengers etc.
Sets have tail lights, reverse lights, front turn signals, and lisence plate lights.
also have side markers in,1895s and 194s.

006-1.jpg


005-1.jpg


004-1.jpg
 
I forgot, I get $70 shipped on the 67 Dart set.
$85 shipped on the 68 Dart cuda set.
and$106 shipped on the Roadrunner Challenger set.
 
im switching the bulbs in my duster to LEDS, anyone ever done this before? I have the right part number LEDs 1156 and 1157 just like the bulbs were. i took out all the blinker bulbs and the reverse light bulbs and....nothing. When i turn the left blinker on the front left led lights up and stays lit up but doesnt blink and the rear left blinker light doesnt even turn on. Same thing for the other side???

also when i turn the hazard lights on the front two blinkers blink like they should but the rear two dont do anything. whats the deal

i should mention that the blinkers/hazards worked fine before. I also took all the leds out and put the old bulbs in and they work fine again. what am i missing?
Yeah, I went through this too with my '66 Barracuda. When they sell you the $%^& LED bulbs for $10 each, they DON'T tell you that they won't work as a turn signal unless you splice a gizmo for each LED bulb in your wiring. The gizmos cost another $10 or so each. I was hoping to have brake lights that were brighter & not inclined to melt my lenses. Instead I'm $20 poorer & back where I started - hopefully a little wiser, too!
 
Another thing you may want to try is reversing the LEDs. Regular bulbs can go either way, but LEDs are directional.
 
i havent been able to see the rear LEDs on yet they wont do anything,(most likly because i need the electronic flasher) the only ones i saw were the ones in the front blinkers

Actually if the original flasher was the problem they would come on and stay on because they draw less power and wouldn't heat up the bi-metal strip to make it click off. You probably do need the electronic flasher but I doubt it's the problem.

What was said about the hazard flashers being on a different flasher unit is correct. The hazard circuit operates the same bulbs but through a different flasher unit.

Try switching the bulbs in the front with the ones in the back and see if anything changes. It's possible you got a couple defective ones. If the rears now work but the fronts don't you got a couple bad bulbs. If the problem is still there it has to be a problem in the wiring going to the rears. I know you said things worked with the original bulbs but if all else fails try them again to make sure nothing happened.

Someone else stated that LED's are polarized. This is true and if you do reverse the polarity they won't work but the only way you could reverse the polarity is to hook your battery up backwards. Since the front ones work the back should also.
 
Another thing you may want to try is reversing the LEDs. Regular bulbs can go either way, but LEDs are directional.

Sorry but I have to disagree because there's no way you can do this. LED's are directional in that they have a positive and a negative unlike regular bulbs which aren't polarized. I give you that. But regular bulbs can only be installed one way because they have locating pins and they are offset. The only way the LED bulbs will fit in a 1157 socket would mean they also have locating pins that are offset. Even if you turned them around your not reversing the polarity. You'd just be switching from one element in the bulb to the other because 1157's are dual filament. Ground remains the same connection which is to the body of the vehicle which is at negative potential. The only way to reverse the polarity is to hook up the battery backwards to make the body at positive potential.
 
well, ill make sure i dont have some faulty LEDS first, then pick up an electronic flasher. I dont think theres a problem in the wiring, i just put all the factory bulbs back in and everything works like it should.
 
Yeah, I went through this too with my '66 Barracuda. When they sell you the $%^& LED bulbs for $10 each, they DON'T tell you that they won't work as a turn signal unless you splice a gizmo for each LED bulb in your wiring. The gizmos cost another $10 or so each. I was hoping to have brake lights that were brighter & not inclined to melt my lenses. Instead I'm $20 poorer & back where I started - hopefully a little wiser, too!

whats a gizmo?
 
If the originals work the LED's should unless their defective.

I just thought of one more thing. Were you performing the test with the engine running or shut off? Reason I ask is LED's won't light up at all if the voltage is under a certain amount unlike a regular bulb that'll light up dimly even if the voltage is way low. The wiring going back to the trunk is alot longer and has a little more voltage drop so if your doing the testing with the engine off it's possible the battery voltage is just low enough and combined with the long run of wiring to the back causing not enough voltage to get to the rear's to light them up. Just a thought.
 
If the originals work the LED's should unless their defective.

I just thought of one more thing. Were you performing the test with the engine running or shut off? Reason I ask is LED's won't light up at all if the voltage is under a certain amount unlike a regular bulb that'll light up dimly even if the voltage is way low. The wiring going back to the trunk is alot longer and has a little more voltage drop so if your doing the testing with the engine off it's possible the battery voltage is just low enough and combined with the long run of wiring to the back causing not enough voltage to get to the rear's to light them up. Just a thought.

i guess i wasnt trying it with the engine running, it was shut off. i bought a electronic flasher anyway so now i will find out for sure what the problem is
 
Most newer cars have them on the fuse block but our older cars usually had them hanging from the harness somewhere. There should be 2 of them. Ones for the turn signals and the other is for the hazard lights.
 
OK, well i replaced the origional flasher and that was half the problem, the other half of the problem is that two of the 1157 RED LEDS they sent me were defective. thats why i wasnt getting anything out of the rear tailights....like someone mentioned as could be the problem....they were right. im currious, what are the chances that i get not just one but TWO defective LEDS, same color, same 1157.:dontknow:

also, what does the brake light run off of? do they have a switch that runs on load just like the blinkers? will they cause problems like the blinker flasher did?

and finaly how about reverse lights? how do they work?
 
Getting new stuff that don't work is the pits and I've seen it more and more in the last few yrs. with all the mass production and outsourcing to foreign sweat shop labor, which most electronic parts like LED's are made. LED bulbs are also very easy to screw up when made because their polarized. If the person making them gets the wires crossed inside they won't work.

The brake lights use the same wires and filament that the turn signals run off of so if the turn signals are working the brake lights should, as long as they did before.

Reverse lights run off of a switch either in the transmission, or on the floor shifter, or on the column shifter depending on which model/year car you have. You should be able to just pop in new LED bulbs and they work. Providing the LED's are good.
 
If you have some lights turning on and others not I would start looking for a bad ground. If everything is working properly and the LED bulbs didn't draw enough current to heat the bimetallic strip inside you would get all the lights on the side the signal was switched on with no flash.
 
The brake lights use the same wires and filament that the turn signals run off of so if the turn signals are working the brake lights should, as long as they did before.

Reverse lights run off of a switch either in the transmission, or on the floor shifter, or on the column shifter depending on which model/year car you have. You should be able to just pop in new LED bulbs and they work. Providing the LED's are good.

seems you are correct, i popped the front amber LEDS, (that work) in the rear and put bulbs in the front and it looks like everything is working just fine (rear blinkers, brake lights, reverse lights). now i just need to wait for the two new Red LEDS for the rear to come. I like the new LEDS in the front blinkers.

Its kind of hard to explain, it seems they are not as bright but they are more noticeable....gives it a more modern look too. when i get the New LEDS for the rear ill take some pictures and try show you what i mean.
 
-
Back
Top