Lifter checks

[dukeboy440]

So ive been seeing all over the Internet that lifter quality across various manufacturers have dropped big time and are causing some major issues. I’m assembling the valve train in my 440 this weekend. Cam is a Comp Cams cam and lifter kit. Hydraulic flat tappet XL285.

What are some things to check for prior to install that could identify any potential bad lifters? I have certified micrometers and such so I can check those specs easily. But is there anything else?

 

[Jeff Seighman]

I pulled all mine apart and made sure there was no trash in them, I have a Lunati cam and their Microl Trol lifters and they were clean. Sometimes I have a little clatter on start up, but my car sometimes can sit for a month undriven.

 

[Bewy]

It is not the dimensions, it is the metal hardness of the body...or lack thereof.
A few years back when the FT lifter problems began, Crower advertised lifters in two different hardnesses, code for crap & more crappy.

 

[sr71mopar]

Make sure the lifters fit smooth and rotate. I've had good luck with the red stuff from Comp.

 

[Bobzilla]

Read posts 111 and 167 in this thread. Best simple explanation I remember seeing.
400/450 stroker....Cheap parts, lotta work.

Edited to add post 111. That entire thread is worth reading by anyone planning to do a build. I just read it again.

 

[Bakerlite]

Yes, that is a very good thread.

 

[MopaR&D]

Material hardness is critical but also is the crown on the lifter face. You can check that by putting the lifter face-down on a pane of glass or other flat surface and see if it "wobbles" a tad and you can fit something roughly the thickness of a business card under one side when it's tipped. If it sits completely flush to the surface all the way across the face it's junk. An easier but less accurate check is to just put 2 lifters face-to-face and check that they don't sit flush with each other. Picked that up from UTG btw, can't say I'm a huge fan of his but he has some great little tips and tricks for engine building.

Also the fitment in the lifter bores, lightly lubed with motor oil they should spin freely and basically be able to fall through the bore with minimal friction. I've found in the past I had to mix-and-match lifters to different bores in the block because there's always a bit of variance in the diameters.

 

[sr71mopar]

Use the side of one of the other lifters to check the crown. Look for daylight on the edges.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Metallurgy and improper clearances due to crappy machine work. Neither of which you can really do anything about. It's a crapshoot to get good ones.

 

[Kern Dog]

With the engine assembled and the intake off, put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and spin the crank. If the spark plugs are out, you can crank it fast enough to see the lifters spin as the cam rotates.