Lifters; Crower vs. Erson?

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QUINN FORBES

Greendemon
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I have the option to use Sig Erson lifters or Crowers.
These lifter are old stock 70’s/80’s so they should both be out of the date of the “problem metal engine parts”.
They are going in a 360 crate LA 9.2 comp.
360 1.88”,”596” heads (mild porting to open up bowls and light blend), Mopar Aluminum DP intake, 340 manifolds, true double roller from Mancini, P4120249 valve springs (up to .500 lift) Factory length Chrome moly push rods, and stamped steel stock rockers).
Comp cam is 268/280 277/280 and also new in the box but is from the 90’s.
I have had all these parts for this build for ages and they are all new in unopened boxes, worse for wear but the product inside is mint.
I know there could be more improvements but this 360La engine won’t see much track if any and I will be taking all the necessary break in procedures.
Anybody use Ersons or Crowers?
Pros and Cons of either?

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Used Erson hydraulics on a B block Erson “Performer” cam bought in 1992 from Super Shops. Oil and engine assembly lube from Napa, probably was Castrol oil and Lubriplate, whatever was on the shelf. Cam and lifter break-in was easier back then:)
 
As others have said, you should be golden... What did you do, buy out the Super Shops as the doors were closing? Wish I had... LOL..
 
As others have said, you should be golden... What did you do, buy out the Super Shops as the doors were closing? Wish I had... LOL..
Haha kind of… I worked in a speed shop for many years and whenever anybody brought in mopar parts for trade or consignment I had first dibs.
Cams, carbs, intakes, everything!
Had a great boss too! He would work out a deal in Labour trade for parts.
I have been trying to use some of these parts to build a time machine!!
Haha. Not really, its a Demon.
 
I'd use either set of lifters, just make sure you use the recommended valve springs for your cam also. 65'
 
I highly recommend watching this video on the subject of lifters. I'll be taking my new flat tappets to the machine shop from now on.

 
Thanks Mean416!!! Great…now I’m not putting ANY lifters in there!!!
Joke.
Informative video, thanks for that.
I often wondered about the chamfer on lifters and their purpose and effectiveness.
I’m hoping my same brand lifters are older and better metal or better QC than the ones he was working with.
But I will definitely look alot closer now cause of that vid.
Crazy to think of all the unmatched lifters and cam shafts I used on half mile round track with no problems.
Maybe because of the high RPMs, lots of oil slung around like during breakin!?
Maybe Metalurgy!?
Who knows!?
But I will be checking angles.
I marked each lifter so when I turn it over manually I hope to see the lifters spin in their bore.
Thats next after closer inspection of the Crowers.
 
I marked each lifter so when I turn it over manually I hope to see the lifters spin in their bore.

During preassembly I like sliding the cam in with the gear attached and dropping in the lifters with some WD-40 sprayed on everything, you can just spin the cam by hand and watch the lifters spinning. Nice to know they do before moving on to valvetrain assembly mock-up, checking, final assembly etc. A pre pre-check if you will. Takes very little time.
 
The lifter on the left in post #11 has a Stellite cap. Great, long wearing but I do not believe they were made in 0.904" diam.
 
During preassembly I like sliding the cam in with the gear attached and dropping in the lifters with some WD-40 sprayed on everything, you can just spin the cam by hand and watch the lifters spinning. Nice to know they do before moving on to valvetrain assembly mock-up, checking, final assembly etc. A pre pre-check if you will. Takes very little time.
I plan to put the pan on with 4 bolts and shaft prime the pump again to watch the lifters spin also while checking valve clearance (modeling clay in valve reliefs)
Also to check oiling again.
3 birds 1 stone.
I already locktighted/torqued the timing set otherwise I would turn the cam by hand. I missed that easier process but can do while checking valve clearance.
 
I plan to put the pan on with 4 bolts and shaft prime the pump again to watch the lifters spin also while checking valve clearance (modeling clay in valve reliefs)
Also to check oiling again.
3 birds 1 stone.
I already locktighted/torqued the timing set otherwise I would turn the cam by hand. I missed that easier process but can do while checking valve clearance.
It’s just something I ended up doing with the block on the stand, sliding a cam in to make sure it rotates good (after new bearings installed) and figured what the heck. Drop the lifters in and see that they rotate, maybe catch an issue before too much top end assembly. I’ve yet to have them spin initially just by doing that, and after assembly to then have any not spin. Not to say it wouldn’t happen. It’s all good.
 
Any lifters made in the 70s 80s and 90s were high quality. Summit and PAW had their own branded cam and lifter kits that were super inexpensive (significantly less than all the legendary brand names) and they worked and many used and recommended them.
 
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