Like to hear from those who put a 3 in complete exhaust in a Dart (70) .......

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Brooks James

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I'm aware I have to trim the gas tank edge. I'd like to have the pipes come straight out.
Any tips ???

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I bought the TTi complete exhaust for my 72 Dart, have yet to install it though. But the 3" they make fit my 73 Challenger like a glove.
 
I bought the TTi complete exhaust for my 72 Dart, have yet to install it though. But the 3" they make fit my 73 Challenger like a glove.
This is good to hear, I also bought the TTI 3” for my ‘67 Barracuda. Waiting on the new engine to be completed then will install.
Hope someone who has installed these chimes in.
 
As an alternative that is easier to install and less expensive, Pypes makes a 3" to 2.5" hybrid system that is optimal for up to 600 HP. 3" X, 3" Race Pro mufflers, 2.5" tailpipes. SMA30R. The system can handle higher HP cars but the HP gains start to become less optimal if you are racing at the track. Pypes recommends electric cutouts for these applications so you get the best of both worlds. Perfect for the street. Open up the cutouts at the track for better performance than a full 3" system.
 
I run a full stainless steel 3" system on my Duster (not the same but very similar) but I used a Pypes 3" X-pipe up front, Dynomax UltraFlow mufflers and custom fabricated tailpipes.
 
I run a full stainless steel 3" system on my Duster (not the same but very similar) but I used a Pypes 3" X-pipe up front, Dynomax UltraFlow mufflers and custom fabricated tailpipes.
Just for the record, the Pypes Race Pro's are the same exact design as the Dynomax Ultra Flow and Magnaflow muffler. Super good design for high horsepower applications that would like to try and keep the sound at least a little bit tame. :p
 
I've got new 3" offset Borla Stainless, Doug's D453 already. For now I'm thinking 90 degree down turns before the axle. I'll Come back later when I have more time and money
 
In 1999, I bought/installed the TTI 3" system on my 68 Barracuda, I ordered it with the turn downs. At that time it came for the longer Dart wheelbase.
I started the installation from the back, putting the turn-downs where I thought they should be, then, and fabricating new hangers as I went. In my car, I only had to bend up one corner of the fueltank, up near the shocks, which were old Munro, three-way adjustable HD types, which were a lil fatter than the ones in the above pics.
At the front end of these tailpipes, I used the factory brackets that are welded/bolted to the floor somewhere close to the seat-belt anchors. I shifted the monster hangers this way and that, to maximize the clearance.
Then I moved to the front.
First I installed the mufflers and positioned them on blocking. Then;
As expected, the pipes were too long
I bolted on the collector extensions, then one by one, measured and cut the pipes for about a 2>2.5 inches overlap at each end; the fit was perfect.
I did not clamp any pipes together, they are all slip-fit.
The H-section keeps the front aligned, and after driving for a few hours, the two pipes soot up at the tight-fitting overlap and they don't move.
At the mufflers, I drilled a small hole and put a screw in there to keep the muffler anchored in place, and not spinning. At the back of the mufflers is where the hangers are, just snug enough so that the U-clamp nuts do not vibrate loose.
After the tailpipe fit was finalized, I again drilled holes with screws following.
And that is how it has stayed ever since.
To get the pipes apart, after the screws are out, I have to spray penetrant into the slip-fits and wait. In a couple of minutes, the soot relaxes, and it comes apart just like it was new.

In 2004, I fit a GVod to my A833, which required the removal of the H-pipe.
A short time later my 223/230/110 cam lost lobes and had to be swapped.
From the same manufacturer, I bought the next size bigger; 230/237/110.
I immediately lost a bunch of low-rpm torque. But the sound out the turn-downs changed gloriously. So to get the bottom end back I installed a Commando box with 16% more first-gear torque-multiplication; and the H-pipe never went back in. And so it has remained to this day.

Having said that, dual 3s is obviously more pipe than my 367 needs. So the Pypes option mentioned above, with 2.5 after the mufflers, seems reasonable.
In my case tho, even with the springs offset inboard some 5/8ths inch, with the Mopar hangers, there was plenty of room for the 3 inchers.
But I have heard the stories.
You won't believe the wonderful sound of dual 3s at 7200, splitting gears ..........
The turn-downs were/are, just right.
 
In 1999, I bought/installed the TTI 3" system on my 68 Barracuda, I ordered it with the turn downs. At that time it came for the longer Dart wheelbase.
I started the installation from the back, putting the turn-downs where I thought they should be, then, and fabricating new hangers as I went. In my car, I only had to bend up one corner of the fueltank, up near the shocks, which were old Munro, three-way adjustable HD types, which were a lil fatter than the ones in the above pics.
At the front end of these tailpipes, I used the factory brackets that are welded/bolted to the floor somewhere close to the seat-belt anchors. I shifted the monster hangers this way and that, to maximize the clearance.
Then I moved to the front.
First I installed the mufflers and positioned them on blocking. Then;
As expected, the pipes were too long
I bolted on the collector extensions, then one by one, measured and cut the pipes for about a 2>2.5 inches overlap at each end; the fit was perfect.
I did not clamp any pipes together, they are all slip-fit.
The H-section keeps the front aligned, and after driving for a few hours, the two pipes soot up at the tight-fitting overlap and they don't move.
At the mufflers, I drilled small holes thu the overlaps and put a screw in there to keep the muffler anchored in place, and not spinning. At the back of the mufflers is where the hangers are, just snug enough so that the U-clamp nuts do not vibrate loose.
After the tailpipe fit was finalized, I again drilled holes thru the overlaps, with screws following.
And that is how it has stayed ever since.
To get the pipes apart, after the screws are out, I have to spray penetrant into the slip-fits and wait. In a couple of minutes, the soot relaxes, and it comes apart just like it was new.

In 2004, I fit a GVod to my A833, which required the removal of the H-pipe.
A short time later my 223/230/110 cam lost lobes and had to be swapped.
From the same manufacturer, I then bought the next size bigger; 230/237/110.
I immediately lost a bunch of low-rpm torque. But the sound out the turn-downs changed gloriously. So to get the bottom end back I installed a Commando box with 16% more first-gear torque-multiplication; and the H-pipe never went back in. And so it has remained to this day.

Having said that, dual 3s is obviously more pipe than my 367 needs. So the Pypes option mentioned above, with 2.5 after the mufflers, seems reasonable.
In my case tho, even with the springs offset inboard some 5/8ths inch, with the Mopar hangers, there was plenty of room for the 3 inchers.
But I have heard the stories.
You won't believe the wonderful sound of dual 3s at 7200, splitting gears ..........
The turn-downs were/are, just right.
 
I've got new 3" offset Borla Stainless, Doug's D453 already. For now I'm thinking 90 degree down turns before the axle. I'll Come back later when I have more time and money
Brooks, if you DO do the turndowns before the back axle, tip the turndowns TOWARD each other, at about a 20-30° angle.
It smooths the sound, and pushes the exhaust out the back, instead of onto the ground, and blowing whatever onto the bottom of the car, or other guys cars.
That's what I did on this car, and it works.

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Thanks, I love advice from "been there doing that now".
I will do just that !
I was concerned about fumes possibly coming into the car
Also Don't need the exiting heat on the pan of the car

Your car is absolutely bitchin, sick !
 
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