Lokar kickdown on pushbutton 904 not kicking down.

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TX64DartGT

TX64DartGT

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Newly installed a Lokar cable and am having problemos. I’ve been playing with the adjustment very slightly and can’t seem to get it into 3rd, also it will not kickdown when flooring the go pedal. I have not had the trans out, this is how it came with the car and I only added the cable. It previously did not have the kickdown linkage, biggest fear is its cooked and needs a rebuild.

Current equipment: ATF-4 fluid at appropriate level, an unknown shift kit, Lokar cable’s on carb and trans associated bracketry. No slack in kickdown cable at WOT.

Thoughts/Opinions?
 
Early push button transmissions only kickdown from 2-1 not 3-2.
I have pictures of how mine is setup and I’ll get them post in a few hours. It can be a pain to figure out. If it’s shifting too soon then slide the nut that’s on the cable towards the firewall, too late slide towards radiator.

Jake
 
My 63 pushbutton sure enough kicks down from 3-2. As a matter of fact i did it yesterday on accident passing a semi. It sounded like the motor was gonna explode going 65 but it did go into second.
 
Also on the 63 the original kickdown is rod actuated. I dont know if a 64 is the same or not but i dont see how i would even adapt a cable to it.
@slantsixdan might know that answer.
 
1963dartgt said:
My 63 pushbutton sure enough kicks down from 3-2. As a matter of fact i did it yesterday on accident passing a semi. It sounded like the motor was gonna explode going 65 but it did go into second.
Click to expand...

Strange. All 3 I had never did.

Jake
 
Yeah it scared the crap out of me ive never spun the motor that high. I thought a rod went through the block
 
I swapped my DEX4 out with ATF4 when I put the deep pan on, I think it liked DEX better. Shifts fine manually but has a hard time coming out of first and isn’t going to 3rd when in “D” with this cable.
 
xLURKxDOGx said:
Early push button transmissions only kickdown from 2-1 not 3-2.
Click to expand...

That is not correct. A transmission that behaves this way is faulty or misadjusted. When they're in good condition and adjusted correctly, flooring the accelerator in 2nd gear below a certain road speed (determined by rear axle ratio and tire size) kicks the trans down to 1st, doing it in 3rd gear below a certain speed kicks down to 1st, above that speed kicks down to 2nd, and above another (very high) threshold speed doesn't kick down at all.

What the pre-'68 (6-cylinder A904) pre-69 (V8 A904) pre-70 (A727) transmissions don't have is part-throttle downshift, that is the ability to go from 3-2 with the application of just more accelerator, not a kick to the floor.

Rod-operated kickdown linkage on all the Torqueflites clear on up through the end of the M-body cars (last ones in '89), trucks and vans some years after that. In the mid-'90s they switched to a kickdown cable. Lokar, I've never messed with -- too many accounts of too many people having too many problems making it work right. Factory cable-type parts can be adapted to work nicely; see this thread for kickdown options.

ATF+4 fluid won't cause problems that don't already exist. Dexron-VI is a markedly superior fluid (references/data on request)
 
slantsixdan said:
That is not correct. A transmission that behaves this way is faulty or misadjusted. When they're in good condition and adjusted correctly, flooring the accelerator in 2nd gear below a certain road speed (determined by rear axle ratio and tire size) kicks the trans down to 1st, doing it in 3rd gear below a certain speed kicks down to 1st, above that speed kicks down to 2nd, and above another (very high) threshold speed doesn't kick down at all.

What the pre-'68 (6-cylinder A904) pre-69 (V8 A904) pre-70 (A727) transmissions don't have is part-throttle downshift, that is the ability to go from 3-2 with the application of just more accelerator, not a kick to the floor.

Rod-operated kickdown linkage on all the Torqueflites clear on up through the end of the M-body cars (last ones in '89), trucks and vans some years after that. In the mid-'90s they switched to a kickdown cable. Lokar, I've never messed with -- too many accounts of too many people having too many problems making it work right. Factory cable-type parts can be adapted to work nicely; see this thread for kickdown options.

ATF+4 fluid won't cause problems that don't already exist. Dexron-VI is a markedly superior fluid (references/data on request)
Click to expand...

Thanks, looks like I need to get this sorted out since I’ve had the transmission recently rebuilt and I can’t get it to kickdown from 3-2.

Jake
 
Dan is correct. You just need to get the cable adjusted correctly. The Lokar cable works good but the bracket on the carb can be a bit of a pain in the a$$. Although you can add the Part Throttle Kick Down. It is a nice feature.
 
Hellrats said:
Dan is correct. You just need to get the cable adjusted correctly. The Lokar cable works good but the bracket on the carb can be a bit of a pain in the a$$. Although you can add the Part Throttle Kick Down. It is a nice feature.
Click to expand...

I already have the Lokar bracket, I’ve got their throttle cable. I’m starting to think this thing has some internal problems now. I’m going to change fluid and see if there are any sparkles. It pulls hard and does not slip at all, but it’s got a mind of its own shifting gears.
 
While you're at it, check your band adjustment! Get a new filter and have a close look at the Lokar cable adjustment. The big thing you want to keep in mind is that the throttle pressure lever on the trans wants to move exactly as the carb linkage does. 0% is 0%, 100% is 100%. Some people need to drill new holes in the trans lever to accomplish that but I personally never had to. Another tip is to install a return spring on the trans lever. Once I did that, it seemed to make everything more predictable and repeatable.
Cley
 
89on35s said:
While you're at it, check your band adjustment! Get a new filter and have a close look at the Lokar cable adjustment. The big thing you want to keep in mind is that the throttle pressure lever on the trans wants to move exactly as the carb linkage does. 0% is 0%, 100% is 100%. Some people need to drill new holes in the trans lever to accomplish that but I personally never had to. Another tip is to install a return spring on the trans lever. Once I did that, it seemed to make everything more predictable and repeatable.
Cley
Click to expand...

Filter is brand new, as is the fluid. Anybody have a pdf for the manual to adjust the bands? I’ve got a small pan leak so I have to drop it anyways, might as well check everything else
 
Also keep in mind there are numerous different-length kickdown levers (at the trans). If your lever's not the right length vs. your throttle lever, you'll run out of trans lever travel before throttle lever travel or vice-versa.
 
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