Lokar placement for kick down

[gdizzle]

Update #4:Here is my re-work of the connection. I also changed the spring at the tranny, the one they put on was too tight. Seems to help. I didn't modify the tranny bracket, no room. I now get kickdown, though it takes about 1 second to kick in. shift points are good, so I am hesitant to tighten the cable any further.
Also, can anyone explain what the difference is for the adjustments on the Lokar? #1 is overall length of the cable at the set screw bit. #2 is the screws at the bracket (lengthen or shorten the distance from the bracket to the carb throttle).
what is the difference? Only other thing I still may mess with is the angle of the Lokar at the carb, it sorta rubs the wire. I would prefer a straight shot for that cable to the carb arm. Ideas?

 

[69_340_GTS]

Just bend the bracket back holding the cable end to give it a straighter shot at the carburetor. And/or put a spacer under the bracket to raise it slightly.
Only real adjustment is at the end where the "Lokar" diamond shaped fitting is. I had to play around with that little fitting until I got the trans to shift properly. Lots of trial and error is required.

 

[nm9stheham]

Your setup looks pretty good now; nice work! Did you make this lever arm?

And looking at the angle of the new arm, it moves the kickdown cable a lot more in the opening travel of the throttle than in the last portions of the throttle; IIRC, that mimics what the stock linkages do. As a last step, I would move the throttle wide open and check to see if the tension on the kickdown cable got really tight in the last 20 degrees or so of throttle travel. You don't want the cable to go taut and pull with excess pressure on the kickdown lever at the trans. If it is OK, then prop the throttle wide open (with engine off obviously) and see if the there is a little bit of rotational travel left at the kickdown lever on the trans. You want a little bit so that the kickdown lever (or the valve on which it pushes inside the trans) is not pushed hard onto its internal stop. That may be the reference you found to total cable pull distance of 1.75".

As for the adjustments, the 2 nuts at the brackets seem to just allow you to change the position of the cable end a bit to accommodate mounting bracket variations. That is hte best I can make of it.

 

[diymirage]

1 adjustment is rough adjustment
set 2 in the center, then set 1

leave 1 where it is and use 2 to fine tune it
(2 shortens or lengthens the outer cable, which, in essence lengthens or shortens the inner cable)

 

[philip's66]

Another source for info on the slants is the SLant Six forum- I bet if you searcht heir site you could find more info on your specific issue. I use that forum as another source , Not saying this is not a great site .

 

[Slantsix64]

due to the Early a body 1963-66 you would have to make your transmission kickdown pressure lever shorter i used the super six kickdown the half that does onto the carb looks like a hockey stick and used a later slant six kick down cut and welded and bent it to make it longer angle the key is once you give that carb throttle that kick down is suppose to move back at the same time if its is delayed at all your car will shift wrong. if you keep driving it that trans will go out until the problem is fixed. use a piece of flexible metal to get a shape going to see how to make your kick down lengths and bend. hope this helps