Long-Rod Slant-6 - my build

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csheehy

^Yup, that's me
Joined
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Location
Providence, RI
Having learned from so many of you here (and on .org), I felt obligated to share how things worked out with my long-rod build.
The original writeup can be found HERE. Sound-clip HERE.

This long-rod 225 slant-6 rebuild (now @ 231 CID & 3.8L) uses the 198 engine connecting rods to facilitate the use of better sealing and lighter weight pistons & valvetrain components as well as mods to create a performance street cruiser (not a red-light racer). Emphasis was on producing high air velocity through the intake tract, reducing parasitic power loss throughout, and lightening the reciprocating mass where budget allows - with all these stealthy mods hidden behind an otherwise plain-wrapper engine.

In all, it worked out great! Pulls strong from about 1,500 and rides in the powerband nearly forever. With cable throttle control and an Edelbrock AVS2 carb, the tip-in is instantaneous and almost feels like it's injected. That said, the build was designed for deeper gears - which are planned in the springtime with an 8.25" differential swap (have it - from '74 Dart Sport) with 3:07 ratio (Jeep) gears. This will pick up the slack from off-idle and balance the powerband range.

All said, I'm stoked with the results. Very drivable, quite a lumpy cam at idle (while pulling 10.5 Hg of vacuum) and pulls strong - with a balanced chassis. It's not a package for everyone - but works for me...

Comments are welcome :)

325A4C50-6F33-4383-8CC2-C68213D0784F.jpg
Induction
  • Spectre Perf. #98881 14" 180-degree dual-inlet, aluminum air cleaner assembly. To make this work, you need to use the base from Edelbrock #1221.
  • Edelbrock carburetor #1901 Thunder AVS-2 @ 500CFM w/electric choke. Running mostly on the primaries.
  • Offenhauser #5270 four-barrel manifold - modified for water-heating under the carb baseplate. Saves several pounds from OE. [vintage part]
  • Remflex #6008 carbon intake/exhaust gasket
  • Attaching studs have been replaced with same-size parts from McMaster-Carr #94358A270 with an allen-head recess. Nuts are mil-spec flex-top locknuts #99638A300.
  • Lokar throttle #XTC1000HT & kickdown #KD2904HT60 cables with bracket #SRK4000 replace mechanical linkage

Cylinder Head
  • Street pocket-ported bowls and short-turn radiused - with the goal of increasing air velocity but not volume. Otherwise just cleaned things up
  • Elgin supplied Ford 289 intake (#I-1670 @ 1.78") & exhaust (#E-1669 @ 1.45") valves. Oversized in slant-6 terms - and with a smaller diameter stem (5/16 vs 3/8), with positive seals and further modified with a back-cut.
  • Street performance valve/seat angles
  • K-motion #K-800 valve springs. Used only the outer spring resulting in 110/280 pressure - to match the cam specs.
  • Comp-Cams valve spring locks & retainers
  • Hand-fitted rockers & spacers
  • Rockers are OE and only required cleaning to ensure oil-flow
  • Endurotec #AS0193 BigBore cylinder head gasket

Block
  • Line honed + new cam & crank bearings
  • Deck was just kissed for gasket seating without much material removal
  • Bored to 3.445" to match pistons, bringing the displacement from 225-CID/3.7L to 231/3.8L
  • Wiseco #PTS536A45 forged pistons. Installed using press-pin option for endurance. Static compression = 9.6:1 (91 pump-gas)
  • Wiseco piston rings #8750XX [1/16, 1/16, 3/16]
  • Chrysler connecting rods from 198-CID slant-6 - which are longer than 225 rods. The essence of a long-rod rebuild!
  • ARP connecting rod bolts from a Pontiac SD-455 engine [yeah, they fit!]
  • NOS oil pump #2808507 - standard pressure & volume
  • Chamfer on the #1 crank bearing for proper timing chain oiling
  • Chamfer on the lifter bores to increase oil pooling at the top of the lifter
  • Crankshaft oil holes chamfered & journals polished
  • Oregon Cam Grinding's #346 camshaft was custom profiled to use Ferrea's lightweight .904" lifters which require a custom ramp angle.
  • Cam Specs: duration @ .050 234/228, Lobe Separation 106, Valve Lift .476/.479
  • Ferrea lightweight mechanical lifters #LF1004 [66-grams each]
  • CompCams pushrods #2497864-12
  • True-roller timing chain - custom set through Elgin using the chain & crank sprocket from 440/426 Hemi mated to their HP cam sprocket for the slant-6
  • Specta Premium #SP1051MP fuel pump delivering 4-6PSI @ 30-GPH [ample supply]
  • Felpro and Mahle gaskets
  • Driven GP-1 15W-40 Synthetic Blend High Performance Oil with Baldwin #BT216 filter (integral standpipe). The oil has a lot of ZDDP for use with flat tappet engines and runs super clean.

Ignition
  • OE alternator - rebuilt to factory specs @ 50-AMP
  • HiRev-7500 electronic ignition module [from Rick Ehrenberg]
  • NGK Iridium spark plugs #97382 - which draw fewer AMPs to fire than other plug types
  • NGK spark plug wires #6716122
  • Rebuilt and custom-curved (Sun) distributor from @halifaxhops
  • Pertronix #40011 Flame-Thrower coil, selected for its quick saturation which helps deliver more torque at lower RPMs.
  • Mini-starter [from R Ehrenberg] which draws significantly less amperage and startup than the OE. It also saves several pounds.
  • New ignition/engine wiring harness #HU226A from YearOne was installed to ensure continuity and full-system reliability.

Cooling
  • Unbelievably - still running the stock radiator! Although, I doubt I'll be that lucky in the summer - so I'm on the hunt for an upgrade.
  • 195F SuperStat Thermostat #STA45359
  • 16-LB cap #10231
  • Recovery Tank (soon)

Transmission
  • Torqueflite 904 has been rebuilt & upfitted with HD internals including steels & frictions
  • TransGo #TF1 reprograming kit installed
  • Custom 2800 RPM stall high-efficiency torque converter with 9.5" impeller & turbine, Torrington bearings, 7/16" ARP 240-7302 bolts, and 4130 chrome moly steel drive hub & spline insert - by Edge Racing Converters
  • Flexplate is from a 440 #200-1040 from 440source
  • AFT+4 fluid

Performance estimations are 235-HP & 280-Ft/Lbs. torque [conservatively] I wanted to dyno it at the shop - but with more custom parts and labor than expected (which is always expected), I ran out of budget. I'll chassis-dyno it someday...

Special mentions are due to @my68barracuda @halifaxhops @slantsixdan, @RustyRatRod Doug Dutra, Duster Idiot, Slantzilla, Dart270, Charlie_S, Greg Ondayko, Joshie225, Dart270, Rick Covalt, CNC-Dude, and many more for directly or indirectly educating me on the ways of the Slant (my apologies for any omissions).
 
Last edited:
Having learned from so many of you here (and on .org), I felt obligated to share how things worked out with my long-rod build. The original writeup can be found HERE.

This long-rod 225 slant-6 rebuild (now @ 231 CID & 3.8L) uses the 198 engine connecting rods to facilitate the use of better sealing and lighter weight pistons & valvetrain components as well as mods to create a performance street cruiser (not a red-light racer). Emphasis was on producing high air velocity through the intake tract, reducing parasitic power loss throughout, and lightening the reciprocating mass where budget allows - with all these stealthy mods hidden behind an otherwise plain-wrapper engine.

In all, it worked out great! Pulls strong from about 1,500 and rides in the powerband nearly forever. With cable throttle control - and an AVS2 carb - the tip-in is instantaneous, almost feels like it's injected. That said, the build was designed for deeper gears - which are planned in the springtime with an 8.25 differential swap (have it - from '74 Dart Sport) with 3:07 ratio (Jeep) gears. This will pick up the slack from off-idle and balance powerband range.

All said, I'm stoked with the results. Very drivable, quite a lumpy cam at idle (while pulling 10.5 Hg of vacuum) and pulls strong - with a balanced chassis. It's not a package for everyone - but works for me...

Comments are welcome :)

Induction
  • Spectre Perf. #98881 14" 180-degree dual-inlet, aluminum air cleaner assembly. To make this work, you need to use the base from Edelbrock 1221.
  • Edelbrock carburetor #1901 Thunder AVS-2 @ 500CFM w/electric choke. Running mostly on the primaries.
  • Offenhauser #5270 four-barrel manifold - modified for water-heating under the carb baseplate. Saves several pounds from OE. [vintage part]
  • Remflex #6008 carbon intake/exhaust gasket
  • Attaching studs have been replaced with same-size parts from McMaster-Carr, but with an allen-head recess, which makes removing/installing the header quicker and easier
  • Lokar throttle & kickdown cables replace mechanical linkage
Cylinder Head
  • Street pocket-ported bowls and short-turn radiused - with the goal of increasing air velocity but not volume. Otherwise just cleaned things up
  • Elgin supplied Ford 289 intake (I-1670 @ 1.78") & exhaust (E-1669 @ 1.45") valves. Oversized in slant-6 terms - and with a smaller diameter stem (5/16 vs 3/8), with positive seals and further modified with a back-cut.
  • Street performance valve/seat angles
  • K-motion #K-800 valve springs. Used only the outer spring resulting in 110/280 pressure - to match the cam specs.
  • Comp-Cams valve spring locks & retainers
  • Hand-fitted rockers & spacers
  • Rockers are OE and only required cleaning to ensure oil-flow
  • Endurotec BigBore cylinder head gasket
Block
  • Line honed + new cam & crank bearings
  • Deck was just kissed for gasket seating without much material removal
  • Bored to 3.445" to match pistons, bringing the displacement from 225-CID/3.7L to 231/3.8L
  • Wiseco #PTS536A45 forged pistons. Installed using press-pin option for endurance. Static compression = 9.6:1
  • Wiseco piston rings #8750XX [1/16, 1/16, 3/16]
  • Chrysler connecting rods from 198-CID slant-6 - which are longer than 225 rods. The essence of a long-rod rebuild!
  • ARP connecting rod bolts from a Pontiac SD-455 engine [yeah, they fit!]
  • NOS oil pump - standard pressure & volume
  • Chamfer on the #1 crank bearing for proper timing chain oiling
  • Chamfer on the lifter bores to increase oil pooling at the top of the lifter
  • Crankshaft oil holes chamfered & journals polished
  • Oregon Cam Regrinders #346 camshaft was further customized being profiled to use Ferrea's lightweight .904" lifters which require a custom ramp angle.
  • Cam Specs: duration @ .050 234/228, Lobe Separation 106, Valve Lift .476/.479
  • Ferrea lightweight mechanical lifters [66-grams each]
  • CompCams pushrods
  • True-roller timing chain - custom set through Elgin using the chain & crank sprocket from 440/426 Hemi mated to their HP cam sprocket for the slant-6
  • Specta Premium #SP1051MP fuel pump delivering 4-6PSI @ 30-GPH [ample supply]
  • Felpro and Mahle gaskets
  • Driven GP-1 15W-40 Synthetic Blend High Performance Oil with Baldwin BT216 filter (integral standpipe). The oil has a lot of ZDDP for use with flat tappet engines and runs super clean.
Ignition
  • OE alternator - rebuilt to factory specs @ 50-AMP
  • HiRev-7500 electronic ignition module [from Rick Ehrenberg]
  • NGK Iridium spark plugs - which draw fewer AMPs to fire than other plug types
  • NGK spark plug wires
  • Rebuilt and custom-curved (Sun) distributor from @halifaxhops
  • Pertronix #40011 Flame-Thrower coil, selected for its quick saturation which helps deliver more torque at lower RPMs.
  • Mini-starter [from R Ehrenberg] which draws significantly less amperage and startup than the OE. It also saves several pounds.
  • New ignition/engine wiring harness was installed to ensure continuity and full-system reliability
Cooling
  • Unbelievably - still running the stock radiator! Although, I doubt I'll be that lucky in the summer - so I'm on the hunt for an upgrade.
  • 195F SuperStat Thermostat
  • 16-LB cap
  • Recovery Tank (soon)
Transmission
  • Torqueflite 904 has been rebuilt & upfitted with HD internals including steels & frictions
  • Edge Racing Converters, 2,800 RPM stall, high-efficiency torque converter with (9.5") impeller & turbine, Torrington bearings, with 4130 chrome moly steel drive hub & spline insert
  • Flexplate is from a 440 w/ARP #240-7302 bolts (must be used, standard bolts make noise!)
  • AFT+4 fluid

Performance estimations are 235-HP & 280-Ft/Lbs. torque [conservatively] I wanted to dyno it on a stand at the shop - but with more custom parts and labor than expected (which is always expected), I ran out of budget. I'll chassis-dyno it someday...

Special mentions are due to @my68barracuda @halifaxhops @slantsixdan, @RustyRatRod Doug Dutra, Duster Idiot, Slantzilla, Dart270, Charlie_S, Greg Ondayko, Joshie225, Dart270, Rick Covalt, CNC-Dude, and many more for directly or indirectly educating me on the ways of the Slant (my apologies for any omissions).
Sweet, can't wait for the dyno numbers.
 
Along with the sweet engine build you brought other things to the table for others to use like the Elgin Double Roller Timing Chain kit. Nicely done.
 
Having learned from so many of you here (and on .org), I felt obligated to share how things worked out with my long-rod build.
The original writeup can be found HERE. Sound-clip HERE.

This long-rod 225 slant-6 rebuild (now @ 231 CID & 3.8L) uses the 198 engine connecting rods to facilitate the use of better sealing and lighter weight pistons & valvetrain components as well as mods to create a performance street cruiser (not a red-light racer). Emphasis was on producing high air velocity through the intake tract, reducing parasitic power loss throughout, and lightening the reciprocating mass where budget allows - with all these stealthy mods hidden behind an otherwise plain-wrapper engine.

In all, it worked out great! Pulls strong from about 1,500 and rides in the powerband nearly forever. With cable throttle control - and an AVS2 carb - the tip-in is instantaneous, almost feels like it's injected. That said, the build was designed for deeper gears - which are planned in the springtime with an 8.25 differential swap (have it - from '74 Dart Sport) with 3:07 ratio (Jeep) gears. This will pick up the slack from off-idle and balance powerband range.

All said, I'm stoked with the results. Very drivable, quite a lumpy cam at idle (while pulling 10.5 Hg of vacuum) and pulls strong - with a balanced chassis. It's not a package for everyone - but works for me...

Comments are welcome :)

Induction
  • Spectre Perf. #98881 14" 180-degree dual-inlet, aluminum air cleaner assembly. To make this work, you need to use the base from Edelbrock 1221.
  • Edelbrock carburetor #1901 Thunder AVS-2 @ 500CFM w/electric choke. Running mostly on the primaries.
  • Offenhauser #5270 four-barrel manifold - modified for water-heating under the carb baseplate. Saves several pounds from OE. [vintage part]
  • Remflex #6008 carbon intake/exhaust gasket
  • Attaching studs have been replaced with same-size parts from McMaster-Carr, but with an allen-head recess, which makes removing/installing the header quicker and easier
  • Lokar throttle & kickdown cables replace mechanical linkage
Cylinder Head
  • Street pocket-ported bowls and short-turn radiused - with the goal of increasing air velocity but not volume. Otherwise just cleaned things up
  • Elgin supplied Ford 289 intake (I-1670 @ 1.78") & exhaust (E-1669 @ 1.45") valves. Oversized in slant-6 terms - and with a smaller diameter stem (5/16 vs 3/8), with positive seals and further modified with a back-cut.
  • Street performance valve/seat angles
  • K-motion #K-800 valve springs. Used only the outer spring resulting in 110/280 pressure - to match the cam specs.
  • Comp-Cams valve spring locks & retainers
  • Hand-fitted rockers & spacers
  • Rockers are OE and only required cleaning to ensure oil-flow
  • Endurotec BigBore cylinder head gasket
Block
  • Line honed + new cam & crank bearings
  • Deck was just kissed for gasket seating without much material removal
  • Bored to 3.445" to match pistons, bringing the displacement from 225-CID/3.7L to 231/3.8L
  • Wiseco #PTS536A45 forged pistons. Installed using press-pin option for endurance. Static compression = 9.6:1 (91 pump-gas)
  • Wiseco piston rings #8750XX [1/16, 1/16, 3/16]
  • Chrysler connecting rods from 198-CID slant-6 - which are longer than 225 rods. The essence of a long-rod rebuild!
  • ARP connecting rod bolts from a Pontiac SD-455 engine [yeah, they fit!]
  • NOS oil pump - standard pressure & volume
  • Chamfer on the #1 crank bearing for proper timing chain oiling
  • Chamfer on the lifter bores to increase oil pooling at the top of the lifter
  • Crankshaft oil holes chamfered & journals polished
  • Oregon Cam Regrinders #346 camshaft was further customized being profiled to use Ferrea's lightweight .904" lifters which require a custom ramp angle.
  • Cam Specs: duration @ .050 234/228, Lobe Separation 106, Valve Lift .476/.479
  • Ferrea lightweight mechanical lifters [66-grams each]
  • CompCams pushrods
  • True-roller timing chain - custom set through Elgin using the chain & crank sprocket from 440/426 Hemi mated to their HP cam sprocket for the slant-6
  • Specta Premium #SP1051MP fuel pump delivering 4-6PSI @ 30-GPH [ample supply]
  • Felpro and Mahle gaskets
  • Driven GP-1 15W-40 Synthetic Blend High Performance Oil with Baldwin BT216 filter (integral standpipe). The oil has a lot of ZDDP for use with flat tappet engines and runs super clean.
Ignition
  • OE alternator - rebuilt to factory specs @ 50-AMP
  • HiRev-7500 electronic ignition module [from Rick Ehrenberg]
  • NGK Iridium spark plugs - which draw fewer AMPs to fire than other plug types
  • NGK spark plug wires
  • Rebuilt and custom-curved (Sun) distributor from @halifaxhops
  • Pertronix #40011 Flame-Thrower coil, selected for its quick saturation which helps deliver more torque at lower RPMs.
  • Mini-starter [from R Ehrenberg] which draws significantly less amperage and startup than the OE. It also saves several pounds.
  • New ignition/engine wiring harness was installed to ensure continuity and full-system reliability
Cooling
  • Unbelievably - still running the stock radiator! Although, I doubt I'll be that lucky in the summer - so I'm on the hunt for an upgrade.
  • 195F SuperStat Thermostat
  • 16-LB cap
  • Recovery Tank (soon)
Transmission
  • Torqueflite 904 has been rebuilt & upfitted with HD internals including steels & frictions
  • Edge Racing Converters, 2,800 RPM stall, high-efficiency torque converter with (9.5") impeller & turbine, Torrington bearings, with 4130 chrome moly steel drive hub & spline insert
  • Flexplate is from a 440 w/ARP #240-7302 bolts (must be used, standard bolts make noise!)
  • AFT+4 fluid

Performance estimations are 235-HP & 280-Ft/Lbs. torque [conservatively] I wanted to dyno it at the shop - but with more custom parts and labor than expected (which is always expected), I ran out of budget. I'll chassis-dyno it someday...

Special mentions are due to @my68barracuda @halifaxhops @slantsixdan, @RustyRatRod Doug Dutra, Duster Idiot, Slantzilla, Dart270, Charlie_S, Greg Ondayko, Joshie225, Dart270, Rick Covalt, CNC-Dude, and many more for directly or indirectly educating me on the ways of the Slant (my apologies for any omissions).
Nice build. Can you post more pics? Thanks
 
Nice build. Can you post more pics? Thanks

Thanks for the kind words.
There are over 300 pics chronologizing the build (of all things) on my Instagram page @csheehy_cuda68 You can see some of them even without having an account - and all of them if you have an Instagram account. If you have a specific curiosity though, let me know and I'll see what I can do about getting you pics...

You can also see a few pics HERE
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the kind words.
There are over 300 pics chronologizing the build (of all things) on my Instagram page @csheehy_cuda68 You can see some of them even without having an account - and all of them if you have an Instagram account. If you have a specific curiosity though, let me know and I'll see what I can do about getting you pics...

You can also see a few pics HERE
while looking at your photos, noticed that your 68 Barracuda has the Chrysler pentastar on the lower corner of the right side front fender. Is that something that you added or did your '68 come with that. My '68 does not have the pentastar.
Also, did you '68 have the driver and passenger shoulder harnesses? My '68 had the brackets under the headliner but did not have the mounting bolts for the shoulder harnesses. My '68 Barracuda was built in October of 1967 so the shoulder harnesses were not yet required.
 
while looking at your photos, noticed that your 68 Barracuda has the Chrysler pentastar on the lower corner of the right side front fender. Is that something that you added or did your '68 come with that. My '68 does not have the pentastar.
Also, did you '68 have the driver and passenger shoulder harnesses? My '68 had the brackets under the headliner but did not have the mounting bolts for the shoulder harnesses. My '68 Barracuda was built in October of 1967 so the shoulder harnesses were not yet required.

John, good call about the Pentastar, Mr. Eagle Eyes! It was on the car when I got it. My production date is September 25, 1967 and I suspect I may have '67 fender(s).

My car did not have shoulder belts, and I'm not sure if the mount is there - I've tried to feel for it before. I do have '67 lap-belts with black texture buckles (whereas 68 is chrome). I'd be interested in up-fitting the shoulder belts and headrests for safety's sake at some point - do you have any advice to share?

Speaking of period-correct stuff, I reached out to Tony D'Agostino (Tony's Mopar Parts) a short while ago about my door handles. I know they were replaced before my stewardship, and have always suspected the knobs, being bright, were wrong for the car. Tony feels the same, so black door handle knobs are on the list to change :) Something I, and a few other eagle-eyed fanatics, might appreciate.

Hope you and yours are safe & healthy!
-Chris

BTW, your '68 is coming out awesome!! Love seeing the progress.
 
John, good call about the Pentastar, Mr. Eagle Eyes! It was on the car when I got it. My production date is September 25, 1967 and I suspect I may have '67 fender(s).

My car did not have shoulder belts, and I'm not sure if the mount is there - I've tried to feel for it before. I do have '67 lap-belts with black texture buckles (whereas 68 is chrome). I'd be interested in up-fitting the shoulder belts and headrests for safety's sake at some point - do you have any advice to share?

Speaking of period-correct stuff, I reached out to Tony D'Agostino (Tony's Mopar Parts) a short while ago about my door handles. I know they were replaced before my stewardship, and have always suspected the knobs, being bright, were wrong for the car. Tony feels the same, so black door handle knobs are on the list to change :) Something I, and a few other eagle-eyed fanatics, might appreciate.

Hope you and yours are safe & healthy!
-Chris

BTW, your '68 is coming out awesome!! Love seeing the progress.

Here is a fun fact, your Barracuda not only predates mine, your Barracuda and I share the same birth date, September 25th.

Concerning the shoulder harness, my '68 has the mounting bracket behind the head liner, feel right in line with the joint of the rear and front side windows, about 2 to 3 inches up. Mine had the bracket welded in on both sides, but did not have the nut that the shoulder harness upper pivot bolts to. That was not difficult to resolve, I found a post here at FABO where an easy fix was laid out. Let me know when you are ready and I will find it and send a link. To gain access to the bracket I slit the headliner with a razor knife and the upper shoulder harness mount hides it all.
 
John, good call about the Pentastar, Mr. Eagle Eyes! It was on the car when I got it. My production date is September 25, 1967 and I suspect I may have '67 fender(s).

My car did not have shoulder belts, and I'm not sure if the mount is there - I've tried to feel for it before. I do have '67 lap-belts with black texture buckles (whereas 68 is chrome). I'd be interested in up-fitting the shoulder belts and headrests for safety's sake at some point - do you have any advice to share?

Speaking of period-correct stuff, I reached out to Tony D'Agostino (Tony's Mopar Parts) a short while ago about my door handles. I know they were replaced before my stewardship, and have always suspected the knobs, being bright, were wrong for the car. Tony feels the same, so black door handle knobs are on the list to change :) Something I, and a few other eagle-eyed fanatics, might appreciate.

Hope you and yours are safe & healthy!
-Chris

BTW, your '68 is coming out awesome!! Love seeing the progress.
My '69 Dart Custom had the Pentastar, as did many Mopars, not a "one year only" thing. The later '70's & '80's "top models", (Imperials, Shelbys etc.), had little silver nickel-sized stickers w/a a black pentastar on key components (alternator, harnesses, etc.).
 
My '69 Dart Custom had the Pentastar, as did many Mopars, not a "one year only" thing. The later '70's & '80's "top models", (Imperials, Shelbys etc.), had little silver nickel-sized stickers w/a a black pentastar on key components (alternator, harnesses, etc.).
Back in the day my dad had a ‘64 Dodge B body that had the pentastar.
IIRC was on the driver side lower front fender only.
 
Passenger side...
Right...?

From what I understand, the Pentastar was used from 1962 until (around) the mid '70s and only appeared on the lower passenger side fender throughout Chrysler's product line. And yes, it was also used on individual parts as well. The use of a symbol for brand identification was a marketing ploy to help boost automobile brand identity. Recognizing a symbol is much easier than reading text, so, a symbol it was. And by placing it on the cars passenger side (read, curbside) meant passersbyers would see it as they walked down the sidewalk. Passive and subliminal marketing at work.

This practice harkens back to the early days of the automobile when coachbuilders would place their logo on the sides of cars to be photographed along with their celebrity owners/drivers/passengers, increasing their brand status - no different than today's influencer marketing on social media or product-placements in everything from movies & TV shows to newscasts and sport events.

As for why John's car didn't have one and mine does - or why his Dad had one on the driver-side - who knows? But now you know a little more about why it might be there in the first place...
 
Right...?

From what I understand, the Pentastar was used from 1962 until (around) the mid '70s and only appeared on the lower passenger side fender throughout Chrysler's product line. And yes, it was also used on individual parts as well. The use of a symbol for brand identification was a marketing ploy to help boost automobile brand identity. Recognizing a symbol is much easier than reading text, so, a symbol it was. And by placing it on the cars passenger side (read, curbside) meant passersbyers would see it as they walked down the sidewalk. Passive and subliminal marketing at work.

This practice harkens back to the early days of the automobile when coachbuilders would place their logo on the sides of cars to be photographed along with their celebrity owners/drivers/passengers, increasing their brand status - no different than today's influencer marketing on social media or product-placements in everything from movies & TV shows to newscasts and sport events.

As for why John's car didn't have one and mine does - or why his Dad had one on the driver-side - who knows? But now you know a little more about why it might be there in the first place...
My memory of the 64 Dodge is from a long time ago, it probably was on the passenger side as I do remember it was on one side only. And yes, my 68 Barracuda does not have a fender pentastar.
 
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