Looking at buying a 1968 Dart with 440

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i've seen this rust in the same spot on other darts. I just wonder where it is coming from and how to keep it from coming back
 
good purchase dave! a bb dart is definitely going to be a chevy/ford street brawler. just go with primer for a while and make it look like a ss hemi dart! definitely glass fenders and hood. i would put the quietest yet least restrictive mufflers on it with electric cutouts.
 
I'll bet that was originally a vinyl top car. They all rusted at the seam because the factory just did a quick smear with plastic filler. Then when the cheezy red paint job was applied, they just skimmed over the rust. Now, years later the ugly is showing through.

Repainted gold, with wide steel wheel and dog dishes, this car will be sharp. Resist the temptation to add GTS badges to keep it a sleeper.
 
C130 Chief said:
I'll bet that was originally a vinyl top car. They all rusted at the seam because the factory just did a quick smear with plastic filler. Then when the cheezy red paint job was applied, they just skimmed over the rust. Now, years later the ugly is showing through.

Repainted gold, with wide steel wheel and dog dishes, this car will be sharp. Resist the temptation to add GTS badges to keep it a sleeper.
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I'm checking the VIN #'s and all the other numbers for other clues. I bet you are right about the vinyl top. Steel wheels for sure. I'm thinking super stock dart. Grey primer is easy, especially for me.
 
Dave,

Matt sold his '68 recently and has some of his fiberglass pieces left (I know bumpers for sure). You should talk to him since he could bring them down since he will have a swap spot at the Fling.
 
Does it have a fender tag? If so take a picture of it, e-mail it to me, and I can decode it for you.
 
You're going to have to pull the engine down to inspect the bores beings your by the coast and salt air can be killers on fresh bores.
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check the cam out too it didn't look like there was any assembly lube on it and with the way the oil is formulated nowadays its real easy to wipe out a cam, BTDT. in fact it probably wouldn't hurt to take apart the engine, check everything, and put it back together. that way your not relying on the unknown quality of someone else's work. just my $.02...

-tim
 
Dave, it looks great. The rust is not so bad, nothing really tricky to fix. Speaking from experience though, have the whole thing media blasted, I bet there is a lot hiding under the paint you cant see. I think the rust in the 1/4 seams is common due to poor prep originally, so the seams started to rust out after a few years.
 
GTXperience said:
Dave,

Matt sold his '68 recently and has some of his fiberglass pieces left (I know bumpers for sure). You should talk to him since he could bring them down since he will have a swap spot at the Fling.
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I could use the fiberglass bumpers for sure. I will be giving you a call for sure. I want to get there around 8am for the swap meet.

crackedback said:
Does it have a fender tag? If so take a picture of it, e-mail it to me, and I can decode it for you.
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I used the decoder from mymopar.com. thx

Optik said:
check the cam out too it didn't look like there was any assembly lube on it and with the way the oil is formulated nowadays its real easy to wipe out a cam, BTDT. in fact it probably wouldn't hurt to take apart the engine, check everything, and put it back together. that way your not relying on the unknown quality of someone else's work. just my $.02...

-tim
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Yeah I'm going to pull the pull everything apart and reassemble it. I did not find any receipts for pistons or the overbore on the machine shop receipts. Leaves me to believe the original slugs are in there. If that is the case then I'm in for some more work and $$$ I am really hoping that there was some quality work done onthe engine.

flyboy01 said:
Dave, it looks great. The rust is not so bad, nothing really tricky to fix. Speaking from experience though, have the whole thing media blasted, I bet there is a lot hiding under the paint you cant see. I think the rust in the 1/4 seams is common due to poor prep originally, so the seams started to rust out after a few years.
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I'll be re-reading your posts again for sure. We have a soda blaster in town. So I plan to take it to him on a dolly and have him do the entire car. Screw paint stripping and sanding all that stuff. The $1000 is worth it by the time you spend all the money on sanding discs and stripper and not to mention the health risks...wink wink.flyboy I don't want any surprises nor the cleanup. I have a good amount of scrap metal that I kept from the Valiant parts car too.
 
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