looking for 318 tips and advice

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Yeah I figured I'd need to jump the compression up. Any suggestions on what you'd do if you're trying to increase compression and run better heads on a budget?


If you find a set of 66 - 67 318/273 heads with closed chambers, add 1.88" intake valves and 1.60" exhaust valves and port them, you will bump up compression about 0.4 point...

But I would save that for later...

The 64 - 65 heads also have smaller combustion chambers, but different intake bolt angle and size, so stay away from those....
 
My old dart engine. Reringed and new bearings 318. Stock 360 heads shaved .050 and the same on the intake side. Isky mega 270 .465 lift. 221 at .050 on a 108 in at 103. Eddy performer, holley 650 dp. 3.55 open rear and stock converter. At 3500 lbs. It ran 14.00 flat at 101. Had to baby it out of the hole. Needed a converter and sure grip badly.
 
On a strict budget, one of the best things you might be able to do is find a later roller cam 318 in a pick and pull. They came in at 9.0-9.2:1, and have better flowing swirl port heads. Lots of ‘85+ M-bodies came with those motors. Add a stock 4bbl manifold and small carb, and upgrade the cam if you have any budget left over.

I found a roller 318 in an 88 Fifth Avenue for $200 with 80k miles on it. Lots of Ms came with ultra long rear gears, so those are usually very easy miles.

A 318 Magnum pullout makes an even better starting point, but requires a few extra tricks (and expenses) to make a clean swap.

With an early F-body, you’re going to have a tough time routing dual exhaust around the offset gas tank. Your best options are dumps/side exits by the axle (if you can stand the noise), or Y into a single 3” exhaust where your catalytic converter was. The single 3” is much easier to route, and performs just as well as 2.25” duals. You can run duals with both pipes going down the passenger side of the gas tank, but it will require a good exhaust shop to find the space.
 
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