Looking for a cast iron welder in the Pacific Northwest

-
Duggie

Duggie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2020
Messages
663
Reaction score
583
Location
Tacoma WA
Hello all,

I'm all wound up about making this split manifold modification while replacing the deteriating exhaust system on my '64 slant.

This shinney new exhaust manifold is ready to cut in two and weld up.

Dang if I can't find anyone in Tacoma that welds cast iron exhaust! Last known one man shop retired. Does anyone know of a cast iron welder in the Puget Sound to Centralia areas? Not having to ship this chunk of iron around the country would help keep this cost effective.
 
I’ve owned my welding shop for over 26 years and those are not cast iron. More like cast steel and crap steel to boot. I’ve tried to weld manifolds and every one breaks down the road just after the weld. Now cast iron radiators for houses with 100% success. I’ve even welded a few cast iron pans and parts for others with 100% happy. Because the formula for welding cast iron is easy.

Manifolds can be done, but just not by anyone. My attitude is return the manifold and find a header for that slant. You will never look back. My opinion only.
Good luck!
SN: pre grind cracks or plated cuts like your case. Heat part to 400 degrees in oven for 30-60 mins dependent on thickness of part.
Braze or stick weld with Ni-rod” not letting part cool down. (Throwback in oven multiple times to maintain temp throughout welding time.) once done welding back in oven to 400 f for another 60mins to stabilize part. Then shut off oven and don’t open door. Let cool over night for the slowest cool possible.
Next day tap gently with a small ball peen hammer to “distress” the metal. Check straightness and you should be good.
 
Thanks for the response!

After following /6 header threads for a while, I convinced they are made out of expensiveum, and unobtainium. $800+ for a pair of Dutras and tube headers premade for a '64 slant with power steering and a manual trans Z bar to navigate around are ultra rare. Fabricating my own is beyond my skill set. :BangHead:

I have a GM hot rodding buddy that is itching to give this a go, but it seems like such a black art, I'd prefer to have someone that has seen it before do the work.
 
Syleng1 said:
I’ve owned my welding shop for over 26 years and those are not cast iron. More like cast steel and crap steel to boot. I’ve tried to weld manifolds and every one breaks down the road just after the weld. Now cast iron radiators for houses with 100% success. I’ve even welded a few cast iron pans and parts for others with 100% happy. Because the formula for welding cast iron is easy.

Manifolds can be done, but just not by anyone. My attitude is return the manifold and find a header for that slant. You will never look back. My opinion only.
Good luck!
SN: pre grind cracks or plated cuts like your case. Heat part to 400 degrees in oven for 30-60 mins dependent on thickness of part.
Braze or stick weld with Ni-rod” not letting part cool down. (Throwback in oven multiple times to maintain temp throughout welding time.) once done welding back in oven to 400 f for another 60mins to stabilize part. Then shut off oven and don’t open door. Let cool over night for the slowest cool possible.
Next day tap gently with a small ball peen hammer to “distress” the metal. Check straightness and you should be good.
Click to expand...
Note, as another molecular thermal fusion specialist the above guidance is spot on for brazing the cast, I would just add to be sure and when grinding crack soften the edge or grind a bit of curve in. The member responding likely took it for granted the OP already knew that but figured I would add for clarity.
 
Sublime one said:
Note, as another molecular thermal fusion specialist the above guidance is spot on for brazing the cast, I would just add to be sure and when grinding crack soften the edge or grind a bit of curve in. The member responding likely took it for granted the OP already knew that but figured I would add for clarity.
Click to expand...
Please assume I don't know a damn thing. :realcrazy: In grinding in a curve, is that a curve in the weld joint area like the opposite of a cut with a chop saw or a radius on the edge to be welded like a bullnose edge on wood?
 
See attached pix, Disclaimer: I am not an artist!

95D0E6D3-4A6F-40DD-BAB3-121DAAB07566.jpeg
 
Sublime one said:
See attached pix, Disclaimer: I am not an artist!

View attachment 1715885882
Click to expand...
Also spot on as a master of molten metal.

I also would add when you grind out a crack. At the ends of the crack first thing is to drill a hole on either end straight thru the metal. It can be small like 1/8” but make it proportional to the crack. This stops the crack from going further. I typically find the end of the crack and using it’s projected path drill about 1/2” to 1” past what you can see because cast (steel or iron) cracks thru the grains of the metal.
 
Sounds similar to stopping a crack in plexiglass. What's a rookie to do? Pre '67(?) /6 headers are different from '64 and apparently '64 headers are even more rare because of differences between cars with power steering, auto VS. standard transmission, high or low starter...

People were talking favorably about the old split cast iron manifold mod in another thread. Old timers around here smile while thinking back to their good old days of hot rodding. Looks cost effective compared to $800+ for a pair of Dutras.

In looking for someone to weld end caps on a cut in half cast iron manifold the only person I can find locally is a hobby welder that has never welded cast before but thinks it would be a fun project to learn. The idea of the weld giving out 500 miles from home is not appealing to say the least. :BangHead:
 
Sublime one said:
Doggie,
I still have quite a bit of family in the area and likely one of them may know a source for you. Let me check.
Click to expand...
THAT WOULD BE GREAT!:thankyou:

And I give up on the "Amazon exhaust manifold". Here is a pic of the inside of the manifold compared to my 60 year old manifold. The Amazon port openings are smaller too. "If" I can find a welder to weld up a split manifold system, I think I need to use the original manifold. Would love to be able to heat the intake though. The car stumbles a bit until it warms up.
IMG_8548.JPG

IMG_8549.JPG
 
Duggie said:
THAT WOULD BE GREAT!:thankyou:

And I give up on the "Amazon exhaust manifold". Here is a pic of the inside of the manifold compared to my 60 year old manifold. The Amazon port openings are smaller too. "If" I can find a welder to weld up a split manifold system, I think I need to use the original manifold. Would love to be able to heat the intake though. The car stumbles a bit until it warms up.
View attachment 1715887157
View attachment 1715887158
Click to expand...
For what it is worth this is the feed back I got, try Devin in downtown shop at Zigglers welding in Olympia? Good luck
 
I think Rick cylinder had here in Milwaukee out of Portland does cast iron welding I know I had a customer bringing head there that was cracked and it sealed up..
I've had to take a day trip to blast up to Seattle to get parts and stuff it ain't nothing but a thing...
 
j par said:
I think Rick cylinder had here in Milwaukee out of Portland does cast iron welding I know I had a customer bringing head there that was cracked and it sealed up..
I've had to take a day trip to blast up to Seattle to get parts and stuff it ain't nothing but a thing...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip! If the shop in Oly doesn't work, I'll try Rick's in Milwaukee.

Life (and this car) wouldn't be the same without you guys!
 
Commando66 said:
Have you seen the a-body headers on CL? Mopar Slant 6 Clifford Headers - auto parts - by owner - vehicle...
Click to expand...
I talked again to my hot rod buddy that can weld about anything but cast iron about these headers. His comment was, "I've never installed a pair of tube headers that didn't need some modification." The guy on CL dropped the price and I brought them home. Thanks for the lead!

IMG_8552.JPG

And thanks too to @Sublime one and @j par for the leads on cast iron welders. This forum is the greatest tool in my garage!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top