Valleyant
Valleyant
Are these available if someone wants to install a bolt on fiberglass hood?
LOW TENSION HOOD SPRINGS for '74 Duster
- Thread starter Valleyant
- Start date
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zakimodo
Well-Known Member
My fiberglass hood came with low tension springs. I believe I ordered from US body source. I don't see them listed on their webpage but it may be worth giving them a call to see if they still offer them.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Most people use gas struts or K car springs on your original hinges.
Lots of threads & ideas on this.
One for example:
Fiberglass hood and hinges
Lots of threads & ideas on this.
One for example:
Fiberglass hood and hinges
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
A member called "Atomic Dog" use to make them. Another option is FWD hood springs from a Daytona, Shadow, etc. They are a bit stiffer that typical fiberglass hood springs & not sure how well they would work. Those are weaker than the ones found on Dart Lites & Feather Dusters to go with their 12-15 lbs lighter than OEM all-steel hoods. Don't know how light the fiberglass hoods can get. The 1976 only Dart Lites & Feather Dusters had aluminum underhood bracing made from aluminum which was crimped & glued to the steel top sheetmetal.
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
Make sure you are getting the right springs before putting your fenders on... How do I know?
I ordered a pair (don't remember from where, would have to dig out the receipt). I TOLD the guy they were for a 28# bolt-on street weight six-pack hood - but found out while installing the hood long after putting the body together that they're way too light, probably for a 12# race-weight hood , and it's not even close to staying up.
So I drive around with a 3 foot 2x4 in the back seat, until I can make a better prop rod. Impresses everyone at cruise-ins though
I ordered a pair (don't remember from where, would have to dig out the receipt). I TOLD the guy they were for a 28# bolt-on street weight six-pack hood - but found out while installing the hood long after putting the body together that they're way too light, probably for a 12# race-weight hood , and it's not even close to staying up.
So I drive around with a 3 foot 2x4 in the back seat, until I can make a better prop rod. Impresses everyone at cruise-ins though
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
Make sure you are getting the right springs before putting your fenders on... How do I know?
I ordered a pair (don't remember from where, would have to dig out the receipt). I TOLD the guy they were for a 28# bolt-on street weight six-pack hood - but found out while installing the hood long after putting the body together that they're way too light, probably for a 12# race-weight hood , and it's not even close to staying up.
So I drive around with a 3 foot 2x4 in the back seat, until I can make a better prop rod. Impresses everyone at cruise-ins though
Although I have a Dart Lite hood, it has a scoop on it which ads a little weight. Original Lite springs held it open. When I replaced a broken Dart Lite hood spring with a FWD Daytona hood spring, it proved to be a little weaker and held the hood open only for a short time before shutting. My prop is a broom handle cut to length to fit between the frame rail & underside of the front of the hood. It stores nicely between the radiator and radiator support and can't fall out. My aluminum radiator may help provide some extra room there.
I have used a propane torch and took the temper out of a stock set of hood Springs and it worked perfect for fiberglass Hood but I have also done a set with too much heat and it wouldn't hold the hood up....kinda tricky..takes bout 10 minutes constant heat on each spring...you will see the coils start to release and unwrap...
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