[Found!] Lower Strut Rod Bushing Sleeves
- Thread starter Beverage
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I thought it’d be easy for you Rusty. It’s the rod that goes between the forward portion of the K Frame and lower control arm. Correct me if I’m wrong on my vernacular.
LCA Strut Rod?
what I’m looking for are the sleeves that go in between the bushing and the rod itself. Don’t really want to make my own, looking for some original options before going QA1
LCA Strut Rod?
what I’m looking for are the sleeves that go in between the bushing and the rod itself. Don’t really want to make my own, looking for some original options before going QA1
Since there's just "ONE" strut rod on each side, there's no "upper" or "lower", so your terminology threw me off. I'm not gonna say they "never" came with a sleeve, but I can say I have never in my life seen any strut rod sleeves. At least from the factory. I know there are some in the aftermarket that do have sleeves.
I appreciate the conversation and entertaining my ignorance. My last A Body was a Hang Ten Dart Sport and now I’m working on a 71 Duster which, I’ve heard, have a metal sleeve in the strut bushings to set the bushings properly as opposed to the later A style which have many differences. If that’s not the case, and I just need to torque the front nut to 40#, I’ll close the post and move on.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Have you tried to order/ look at a set? I've got some w/ a sleeve on my car. It's a 74. I have a set a took off, I can look for them at some point and check. I wanna say they have a sleeve between the 2 bushings
Thank you @Ironracer my Hang Ten’s we’re both ‘74 and I don’t remember having to consider this.
I have a set of poly bushings here from PST that are the two-piece version over single and didn’t come with a sleeve. There’s play between the rod and bushing, maybe 1/16” or possibly 1/8th”.
I have a set of poly bushings here from PST that are the two-piece version over single and didn’t come with a sleeve. There’s play between the rod and bushing, maybe 1/16” or possibly 1/8th”.
I don't think I'd go that far. Like I said, I've never seen one with factory sleeves. That really means nothing. @Oldmanmopar or @Jim Lusk are the dudes to tell you for sure. They'll know.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Sounds like one is needed.. I'll look out in the building tomorrow or the next day. I have a job going on out of town
The top strut rod is 67-72 fine thread and takes a one piece bushing from the factory , A two piece is available both are pictured in forth picture
The 73 and newer are coarse thread and take a two piece with the sleeve you are taking about. They are totally different and cannot be used on the early 67-72 a-body strut rods. The length is different and the later strut rod bushings on an early car will move the control arm back to far due to the sleeve.
Below are some references . One thing you need to know is the later bushings with the sleeve cannot be used without the sleeve on the early rod. The inside diameter is larger for the sleeve.
I don't believe the early two piece without the sleeve picture #7 and #8 are available any more. There are others similar. I just use the one piece pushed through the k-member from the rear pushed through toward the front. Some use poly bushing kits I never had luck with them because the do not come with a shear sleeve built in the bushing and the K-member shears the nub off that goes through the K-member It is not seen after it tears but allows the rod to move side to side in the k-member.
The last picture you can see the metal shear sleeve in the rubber bushing that is not in the poly bushing. This shear sleeve keeps the strut centered
Hope this helps. I am sure 72blunblu will have a different opinion. But here is what I have for reference . Knowledge is always good use it or not this is what I have as far as info.
The 73 and newer are coarse thread and take a two piece with the sleeve you are taking about. They are totally different and cannot be used on the early 67-72 a-body strut rods. The length is different and the later strut rod bushings on an early car will move the control arm back to far due to the sleeve.
Below are some references . One thing you need to know is the later bushings with the sleeve cannot be used without the sleeve on the early rod. The inside diameter is larger for the sleeve.
I don't believe the early two piece without the sleeve picture #7 and #8 are available any more. There are others similar. I just use the one piece pushed through the k-member from the rear pushed through toward the front. Some use poly bushing kits I never had luck with them because the do not come with a shear sleeve built in the bushing and the K-member shears the nub off that goes through the K-member It is not seen after it tears but allows the rod to move side to side in the k-member.
The last picture you can see the metal shear sleeve in the rubber bushing that is not in the poly bushing. This shear sleeve keeps the strut centered
Hope this helps. I am sure 72blunblu will have a different opinion. But here is what I have for reference . Knowledge is always good use it or not this is what I have as far as info.
Thank you very much or the detailed response! I knew there was supposed to be one in there. I think I'm going to buy one of those kits with the sleeve you pictured above and use my Poly bushings. Greatly appreciate everyone's insight here.
Look and read my post carefully. The only a-bodies that used them were 73 and newer that had the coarse thread strut rods. You cannot use the sleeve on the early fine thread strut rod. Hence they do not make a poly bushing kit to fit the early fine thread strut rods. Besides that the poly bushings struts and lower control arm allow the control arm to move front and back unless shims are used at the rear of the torsion bar or a hole drilled and pinned.
I have a car coming in for repair that had them just installed. The torsion bars were lubed up and the clip ether came out or was left out. It had struts with swivels. He was backing up fast and hit the brakes hard and the arm came off of the pin pushing the torsion bar out. With no weight on the suspension there was no friction to hold the bar in. I have seen them move front and back this is the first one I have seen come off and the car drop. 1972 Barracuda destroyed the right front fender and valance.
I have a car coming in for repair that had them just installed. The torsion bars were lubed up and the clip ether came out or was left out. It had struts with swivels. He was backing up fast and hit the brakes hard and the arm came off of the pin pushing the torsion bar out. With no weight on the suspension there was no friction to hold the bar in. I have seen them move front and back this is the first one I have seen come off and the car drop. 1972 Barracuda destroyed the right front fender and valance.
Thanks for pointing that out, I guess I was confused by this sentence, "One thing you need to know is the later bushings with the sleeve cannot be used without the sleeve on the early rod." With my interpretation being I could use the two-piece bushings with the sleeve.
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