Lunati Cam - Advance ground in ?

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Hmm so if I decided, out of my " noise seeking" psychosis, to rip the timing Chain cover off, I could get a ° wheel and gain Cyl # more than 155? sounds like a killer trick!
 
Hmm so if I decided, out of my " noise seeking" psychosis, to rip the timing Chain cover off, I could get a ° wheel and gain Cyl # more than 155? sounds like a killer trick!
Very possibly.
 
Hmm, I may well.go there. If that damn sound ai t been figured. The Lil bit o copper scares me tho... that's usually inner bearing...
 
I disagree, it DOES matter what You call it, sloppy terminology has no place in technical discussion. Dot-to-Dot is NOT straight-up!

i think it might be a sound argument that saying something is "straight up" or "dot to dot" is sloppy terminology.
isn't it much clearer to just state it's degreed to xxxICL or it's installed at ****
or even, it's installed x* advanced or retarded...
 
"Straight up" or "dot to dot" would be correct to say "zero" in regards to the timing chain and sprockets. Since no advance would be given from the chain set, "zero" would be the correct terminology, IMO, potato, potahto. But as has been said many times, installed at "zero" and being "in the right place" is extremely rare. It happens, but not often at all.
 
Degree the camshaft in, the OP's questions will be answered about the advance of the camshaft and timing events .
I agree... and it's already been said several times. Just degree the damn thing!

.. I used periods this time lol . Make all the key board hero's happy lol .
Try the standard one period and one space after the period :poke:
*keyboard
*heroes
grammar police.jpg
 
Hmmmm, now lets see if You can find a clever one for the ignoramity police, since that's the real issue being corrected....
 
Hmmmm, now lets see if You can find a clever one for the ignoramity police, since that's the real issue being corrected....
I ain't touchin that one. lol
 
"Ignoramity"?? Your post speaks for itself :icon_fU:
Ahh, so grammar/terminology DOES matter, I figured since we were spinning the degree wheel of fortune these things were irrelevant.
 
Here's how I always start. I don't start dot to dot. I start with "wherever" the cam card says. In other words, if it says LSA 112 and ICL 108, I advance the crank gear the 4*. Doesn't always work, but it usually gets it close. Like we've all said, in a perfect world, the crank gear on zero (dot to dot) would be WHERE the cam card says, but it rarely ever works out like that. Plus, using my method "usually" ends up a little more advanced from where the cam card recommends and that's where "I" prefer most. Because advancing a tad more than the card gives you room for chain stretch and also adds a little more to the bottom than it takes from the top, which is a good trade off, IMO. Of course, if you're on the ragged edge of detonation, you have to be careful, which is why I always use a compression gauge in conjunction with a degree wheel and why I highly recommend it.
I'm Learning......
 
I've had a solid roller cam from their Voodoo series since March. I'm done with them. Poor communication, and no updates on my order. I'm looking for a big solid roller cam and lifters. Not to hijack the thread, but looking for advice from the members on this site.
 
Contact bullet cams talk to Chris he's a Mopar expert lunati cams p o s been there done that
 
That one and the MP 508 are some cylinder pressure eatin mugs and normally need advancing a good bit. Especially the 508, but they can both haul the mail with a little more than the recommended advance, especially because most people put them in engines with too low static compression. The MP 508 for example, IMO needs a minimum of 11:1 static compression and 12 would work better. It's just really too big for a hydraulic cam, imo, and they made one one step bigger, the .533/320. LMAO
I have the 508 mopar cam in my 360. I installed it 4° advanced @ the crank and it pulls nicely from stoplight to stoplight. 3.91's out back also help.
 
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