Ironracer
Gearhead
Hmm so if I decided, out of my " noise seeking" psychosis, to rip the timing Chain cover off, I could get a ° wheel and gain Cyl # more than 155? sounds like a killer trick!
Very possibly.Hmm so if I decided, out of my " noise seeking" psychosis, to rip the timing Chain cover off, I could get a ° wheel and gain Cyl # more than 155? sounds like a killer trick!
I disagree, it DOES matter what You call it, sloppy terminology has no place in technical discussion. Dot-to-Dot is NOT straight-up!
I agree... and it's already been said several times. Just degree the damn thing!Degree the camshaft in, the OP's questions will be answered about the advance of the camshaft and timing events .
Try the standard one period and one space after the period.. I used periods this time lol . Make all the key board hero's happy lol .
I ain't touchin that one. lolHmmmm, now lets see if You can find a clever one for the ignoramity police, since that's the real issue being corrected....
Ahh, so grammar/terminology DOES matter, I figured since we were spinning the degree wheel of fortune these things were irrelevant."Ignoramity"?? Your post speaks for itself
Here you go, not the best video but at least I held the phone pretty steady, it comes up quick, idling around 900
I'm Learning......Here's how I always start. I don't start dot to dot. I start with "wherever" the cam card says. In other words, if it says LSA 112 and ICL 108, I advance the crank gear the 4*. Doesn't always work, but it usually gets it close. Like we've all said, in a perfect world, the crank gear on zero (dot to dot) would be WHERE the cam card says, but it rarely ever works out like that. Plus, using my method "usually" ends up a little more advanced from where the cam card recommends and that's where "I" prefer most. Because advancing a tad more than the card gives you room for chain stretch and also adds a little more to the bottom than it takes from the top, which is a good trade off, IMO. Of course, if you're on the ragged edge of detonation, you have to be careful, which is why I always use a compression gauge in conjunction with a degree wheel and why I highly recommend it.
Me too.I'm Learning......
I've had a solid roller cam from their Voodoo series since March. I'm done with them. Poor communication, and no updates on my order. I'm looking for a big solid roller cam and lifters. Not to hijack the thread, but looking for advice from the members on this site.
I have the 508 mopar cam in my 360. I installed it 4° advanced @ the crank and it pulls nicely from stoplight to stoplight. 3.91's out back also help.That one and the MP 508 are some cylinder pressure eatin mugs and normally need advancing a good bit. Especially the 508, but they can both haul the mail with a little more than the recommended advance, especially because most people put them in engines with too low static compression. The MP 508 for example, IMO needs a minimum of 11:1 static compression and 12 would work better. It's just really too big for a hydraulic cam, imo, and they made one one step bigger, the .533/320. LMAO