clhyer
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Just completed the install of an M Body rear sway bar into my Duster. Thought I would share a couple tips with you if you are considering or in the process of this same mod. This post is not to replace that write up that is already out here and can be found here:
http://www.cloudfactory.org/~josh/barracuda/rearswaytech.html
This was a good write up, and a good place to start. Your install may be as simple as was shown, mine was not. A couple other mods I have made that may have factored into the tweaks I had to make:
A. I changed out the 7 1/4 rear to an 8 1/4.
B. I moved the rear axle back 1/2" by using a spacer block in front of the spring hanger. This centered those 15" tires in the wheel well.
C. My sway bar came from an '88 Gran Fury. Perhaps there were some changes to the brackets along the way.
With the above disclosures made, here are the changes and tweaks I found necessary when I made this mod. Please refer to that write up as I will be referencing those steps here.
1. Step 7. We were doing pretty good to this point. The short bolts that attach the retaining strap to the bracket are not long enough to add the spacer block and strap. Therefore, add Step 7A: Cut the existing bolt off the bracket (they are spot welded in place) and spot weld a new grade 8 bolt, 5/16" X 1 1/2" in place.
2. Step 8. This describes fabrication of a spacer block to provide floor pan clearance. You will note the 3/8" holes are drilled off center. The factory retaining straps have mounting holes off center (see the pic in step 14). If you are reusing the factory worn out bushings, or can find a set of replacement bushings, this Step 8 will work. I was unable to find those bushings and purchased a replacement Energy Suspension PN 9-5156G set. These are black poly bushings that are greasable. They are also available in red. The retaining straps for these are centered. I had to redrill my spacer blocks to accomodate the ES strap. Therefore, I will add the following:
Step 8A: Obtain the bushing kit that you will be using. If reusing the originals, or can find factory parts, drill the spacer block as shown. If you obtain a new aftermarket bushing kit you will need to change the location of the holes.
Step 8B: If necessary, drill the 3/8" spacer block holes 2 13/16" apart, centered 3/4" from each edge.
3. Step 13. Replace the narrative with the following:
Step 13A. Place the frame bar bracket in place, do not drill holes and mount yet. Use clamps if necessary to hold in place.
Step 13B. Attach the bushings to the sway bar and bring the sway bar into location and do a test fit by attaching the bushing retainers and link kits.
Step 13C. Adjust the frame bar bracket up or down the frame rail as necessary to bring the sway bar links to a vertical position. Drill 7/32" holes and attach the frame bar brackets.
That may do it for you. I did have to make two other changes. I did not add them because they were probably due to my moving the rear axle back. I had to reposition the rear axle bumpers, to the top center no less! I also had to fab up a new bracket to attach the rear brake line to. Before doing this there was going to be interference between that bracket (and my brakes) and the sway bar. I also did this install with the shocks removed. This allowed me to bounce the car up and down somewhat to check for interference between the sway bar and everything else. From the FMJ Body sister site I found out I could use the link kit from a mid 90's Chevy S-10 front sway bar link kit.
I think that's it, it was a fairly easy install.
C
http://www.cloudfactory.org/~josh/barracuda/rearswaytech.html
This was a good write up, and a good place to start. Your install may be as simple as was shown, mine was not. A couple other mods I have made that may have factored into the tweaks I had to make:
A. I changed out the 7 1/4 rear to an 8 1/4.
B. I moved the rear axle back 1/2" by using a spacer block in front of the spring hanger. This centered those 15" tires in the wheel well.
C. My sway bar came from an '88 Gran Fury. Perhaps there were some changes to the brackets along the way.
With the above disclosures made, here are the changes and tweaks I found necessary when I made this mod. Please refer to that write up as I will be referencing those steps here.
1. Step 7. We were doing pretty good to this point. The short bolts that attach the retaining strap to the bracket are not long enough to add the spacer block and strap. Therefore, add Step 7A: Cut the existing bolt off the bracket (they are spot welded in place) and spot weld a new grade 8 bolt, 5/16" X 1 1/2" in place.
2. Step 8. This describes fabrication of a spacer block to provide floor pan clearance. You will note the 3/8" holes are drilled off center. The factory retaining straps have mounting holes off center (see the pic in step 14). If you are reusing the factory worn out bushings, or can find a set of replacement bushings, this Step 8 will work. I was unable to find those bushings and purchased a replacement Energy Suspension PN 9-5156G set. These are black poly bushings that are greasable. They are also available in red. The retaining straps for these are centered. I had to redrill my spacer blocks to accomodate the ES strap. Therefore, I will add the following:
Step 8A: Obtain the bushing kit that you will be using. If reusing the originals, or can find factory parts, drill the spacer block as shown. If you obtain a new aftermarket bushing kit you will need to change the location of the holes.
Step 8B: If necessary, drill the 3/8" spacer block holes 2 13/16" apart, centered 3/4" from each edge.
3. Step 13. Replace the narrative with the following:
Step 13A. Place the frame bar bracket in place, do not drill holes and mount yet. Use clamps if necessary to hold in place.
Step 13B. Attach the bushings to the sway bar and bring the sway bar into location and do a test fit by attaching the bushing retainers and link kits.
Step 13C. Adjust the frame bar bracket up or down the frame rail as necessary to bring the sway bar links to a vertical position. Drill 7/32" holes and attach the frame bar brackets.
That may do it for you. I did have to make two other changes. I did not add them because they were probably due to my moving the rear axle back. I had to reposition the rear axle bumpers, to the top center no less! I also had to fab up a new bracket to attach the rear brake line to. Before doing this there was going to be interference between that bracket (and my brakes) and the sway bar. I also did this install with the shocks removed. This allowed me to bounce the car up and down somewhat to check for interference between the sway bar and everything else. From the FMJ Body sister site I found out I could use the link kit from a mid 90's Chevy S-10 front sway bar link kit.
I think that's it, it was a fairly easy install.
C
