MA5 5-speed to 5.7 hemi?

[MoparPowa]

Anybody done this? Know anyone who has? It's the 5-speed out of the Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon and the Solstice also uses a slightly modified version with a different tailshaft. Their lineage is with the Toyota Supra R-154's and they're supposed to be just as buff as well as slick shifting with triple cone synchro's and the like. So far I've gathered to use a Dakota 3.9L bell with the Dak flywheel which is an 11" 143-tooth flywheel with a 10.5" actual clutch mounting surface. Still researching clutch/pressure plate. I'm pretty confident I can make the electronic speedo work since I'll be going aftermarket gauges regardless. Any help? Also, I've read that you can and you can't use the jeep 3.7L bell, seems preferable to me(lower weight/smaller size, etc), why can't I?

-Ryan

 

[magnumdust]

Anybody done this? Know anyone who has? It's the 5-speed out of the Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon and the Solstice also uses a slightly modified version with a different tailshaft. Their lineage is with the Toyota Supra R-154's and they're supposed to be just as buff as well as slick shifting with triple cone synchro's and the like. So far I've gathered to use a Dakota 3.9L bell with the Dak flywheel which is an 11" 143-tooth flywheel with a 10.5" actual clutch mounting surface. Still researching clutch/pressure plate. I'm pretty confident I can make the electronic speedo work since I'll be going aftermarket gauges regardless. Any help? Also, I've read that you can and you can't use the jeep 3.7L bell, seems preferable to me(lower weight/smaller size, etc), why can't I?

-Ryan

I've been wondering about this too. My DD has an Ma5 and has had at least 1000 hard launches @ 190rwhp in a 3800lb truck. But i wonder how well it would stand up to a torquey V8. The I5 is far from torquey.

 

[MoparPowa]

I've been wondering about this too. My DD has an Ma5 and has had at least 1000 hard launches @ 190rwhp in a 3800lb truck. But i wonder how well it would stand up to a torquey V8. The I5 is far from torquey.

From what I've read they apparently do LS1 conversions into Soltice's so I feel like that should speak to the strength of the MA5 trans. Not to mention that it originates from the Toyota R154 that is supposed to be a more than capable high performance transmission that drifters beat on constantly.

Interestingly enough, wikipedia lists the curb weight of the Solstice at 2877 lbs. Not far from what my '66 Dart probably weighed based on the NHRA listings. So, 5.7 hemi in my car is lighter than the old small block by a bit, LS1 is significantly heavier than the 4 cylinder they put in the Solstice... I feel pretty good about it.

-Ryan

 

[magnumdust]

hmm interesting.

What about the input shaft length? The MA5 uses a longer input shaft. 8.2" vs. 7.25"(R154). I don't know how hard a spacer would be to make or if you could cut down the input shaft.

http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740&page=5

That site suggests the put spline count is the same as a typical chevy clutch. So you could have Clutchmasters make you a kit w/ a mopar pressure plate & chevy clutch

 

[MoparPowa]

hmm interesting.

What about the input shaft length? The MA5 uses a longer input shaft. 8.2" vs. 7.25"(R154). I don't know how hard a spacer would be to make or if you could cut down the input shaft.

http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740&page=5

That site suggests the put spline count is the same as a typical chevy clutch. So you could have Clutchmasters make you a kit w/ a mopar pressure plate & chevy clutch

I'm very familiar with that guide... The individual who wrote it, Greg55_99, a member here amongst endless other sites from what I've been noticing, contradicted himself in this post(granted it was written earlier than that guide I suppose). For simplicity's sake, I'm hopeful it matches the AX15's input shaft length, as he stated in that post. However, of the few MA5 swaps I've found done, the measurement always seems to come out differently? I agree that the clutch shouldn't be a problem, just haven't gotten around to researching that aspect of the build. I think I'm probably much better off compared to the R154 swap where there is really only one 10.5" Toyota 21-spline (that I know of) commercially available clutch and it's not exactly a high performance model.

See picture from a lexus website... You can also note that the end of the input shafts length is significantly made up of a portion without any splines which should be very simple to modify, if at all necessary(knock on wood).

 

[MoparPowa]

Well, since nobody seems to have any (other) thoughts I guess I'll just think out loud here...

Based on some of the discussion going on over here, the 3.9L bellhousing from a 94-99 Dakota (pictured above) is the best available option for mounting one of these Aisin transmissions to a 5.7 hemi. That 3.9L bellhousing however comes with some caveats, it requires an 11"/143-tooth flywheel. If you're bolting it to a standard smallblock you can just transfer over the V6 flywheel, however in my case, Mopar hooked me up and changed out crank bolt patterns. This means I have to find an 11"/143-tooth 5.7/6.1 hemi flywheel. Now, they are available, although expensive and aftermarket. I was trying to avoid aftermarket parts simply due to maintenance parts availability.

So... the MA5 is a little steep in the first gear department at 3.753:1. Certainly a lot of gear in comparison to nearly any aftermarket trans or factory available option. This affords me the ability to run a very conservative gear and keep my highway rpm's more than reasonable. Based on the recommendations of a multitude of sites online, the range of 9-11 for a starting line ratio (first gear x rear gear) is a good middle ground for a street car.

With a 2.93 rear gear I will be at 10.996, or 11 for simplicity's sake. Already on the high end of that range, my shorter tires, 315/35/R17's, are only 25.7" tall, effectively increasing my launch ratio. A 2.93 rear gear puts me just a hair under 2000 rpm's cruising at 70 mph in 5th.

With a 2.76 rear gear I will be at 10.36, more middle groundish, cruising at 70 around 1850 rpm.

3.23's seem a little too steep... My only concern is that this car will be a street car and see some parking lot autocross or time trials style races, a little quarter mile and stoplight to stoplight drags. Maybe even some standing mile or 1/2 mile, I think I'd really like to try that. Does 2.93 seem like a good compromise to those of you drive stick cars out there? Will it launch comfortably on the street and aggressively at the track, yet first gear won't be a waste and barely make it through a stop light? Would 2.76's be too tall? I'd also like to have a little room to go with some slightly taller tires in the rear if I decided to. I can't see going taller than 28" for what I'm trying to do.

In connection to all of that, I know steel flywheels are pretty much the rule for the street but would my high SLR and relatively low weight early A(shooting for 3500 lbs MAX with me in it, hopefully much less, just trying to be conservative) allow for the use of an 11" aluminum flywheel? I think it could be beneficial in the autocross and time trials situations. To be honest, this will be my first vehicle with a stick, I am thoroughly
excited about it.

 

[Greg55_99]

I'm very familiar with that guide... The individual who wrote it, Greg55_99, a member here amongst endless other sites from what I've been noticing, contradicted himself in this post(granted it was written earlier than that guide I suppose). For simplicity's sake, I'm hopeful it matches the AX15's input shaft length, as he stated in that post. However, of the few MA5 swaps I've found done, the measurement always seems to come out differently? I agree that the clutch shouldn't be a problem, just haven't gotten around to researching that aspect of the build. I think I'm probably much better off compared to the R154 swap where there is really only one 10.5" Toyota 21-spline (that I know of) commercially available clutch and it's not exactly a high performance model.

See picture from a lexus website... You can also note that the end of the input shafts length is significantly made up of a portion without any splines which should be very simple to modify, if at all necessary(knock on wood).

LOL! LIES I tell you, all LIES!..

However, if you REALLY want to know the length of the AX15 vx R154 input shaft, I have an example of both in my garage. I think you've hit the nail on the head pointing out the important thing here is the length to the splines.

Greg

 

[MoparPowa]

LOL! LIES I tell you, all LIES!..

However, if you REALLY want to know the length of the AX15 vx R154 input shaft, I have an example of both in my garage. I think you've hit the nail on the head pointing out the important thing here is the length to the splines.

Greg

The legend himself! Man is it good to hear from you... it seems like I've read reposts of your engine swap bellhousing guide on just about every single site I can run into. All of that aside, I'd be delighted if you could compare them for me. Am I safe in assuming the AX15's input shaft is the same length as the MA5(as you stated in that post I linked)? It's really hard to figure all this stuff out without being able to actually touch any of it. There are a few yards about 2.5 hrs(one way) away from me that have a couple MA5's listed, one of which claims only 7k miles and they're only asking $325... I need to get the 3.9L bellhousing as well so I can just get the stuff bolted together behind my hemi and be able to do the sheetmetal work. Possibly sometime this week...

 

[Greg55_99]

Would you believe that info is now over ten years old. I've led many a poor soul down the garden path with it. I've even seen it reprinted in a book. Didn't get a quarter. LOL.

Anyway, yes, I can go out and take some tape off of the R154 and AX15 if it helps. The MA5 is a good transmission. With that said, my philosophy is "Just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean you SHOULD do something". Are you sure you want to cut into your car and put one in? I've got a big block and I'm going with a Viper T56. I have no doubt the MA5 can handle a Hemi, but there are other options.

Personally, I'm a junkyard dog. I like the idea of putting parts together and making them work. Your opinion?

Greg

 

[71Scamper]

Greg!!! Good ol' buddy! Hey that R-154 I got off of you looks pretty good on the inside. I ordered the billet shift forks and the upgraded thrust washer that always fails on them. I also got a 1350 slip yoke to mate it up easier to a mopar drive shaft. I still haven't installed it yet but it looks like it will happen very soon. If I get it done this summer i'll be making a trip back down to visit you and I'll even let you take it for a good rip!

 

[MoparPowa]

Would you believe that info is now over ten years old. I've led many a poor soul down the garden path with it. I've even seen it reprinted in a book. Didn't get a quarter. LOL.

Anyway, yes, I can go out and take some tape off of the R154 and AX15 if it helps. The MA5 is a good transmission. With that said, my philosophy is "Just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean you SHOULD do something". Are you sure you want to cut into your car and put one in? I've got a big block and I'm going with a Viper T56. I have no doubt the MA5 can handle a Hemi, but there are other options.

Personally, I'm a junkyard dog. I like the idea of putting parts together and making them work. Your opinion?

Greg

That's a shame man, you gotta copyright everything nowadays! As for the MA5, I've been researching this car and my general build for years(10?). In all of those years, I've waited and watched new products come and go, few successes. I've been back and forth between automatics, manual, electronically paddle shifted manuals AND automatics, etc. etc. etc. I've looked at Keisler, Passon, Twist Machine, Bowler, CK Trannies, it goes on and on. All I ever wanted was to get something I would enjoy driving as well as provide minimal tunnel modifications so I could utilize a stock 66 center console to match the 66 cuda dash I will be putting in the car. The MA5 just seems to be the best option I've yet come upon and I could continue to research this for another decade but at some point I just have to commit to something and be satisfied. I think I can commit to, and be satisfied with the MA5.

I also had crazy dreams(1000+ hp twin turbo'd 3rd gen hemi) with this car originally that I've had to of course reel myself back into reality. Money was the main motivator... I just can't stomach the idea of having a $50k+ car that would only ever be worth $25k... 66 Darts aren't exactly killing it at Barret-Jackson. Not to imply that I think of the Dart as a financial investment, just that there's a certain level of reason with which I have to treat it.

That said, quite a bit of the stuff on the car is aftermarket, looking back, I definitely would have done it different. I could have build an outstandingly good handling car on torsion bars and leaf springs, factory big disk brake conversion and a 408 stroker on megasquirt. Instead of that I'm building a 5.7 hemi with megasquirt and coil overs everywhere. It's okay though, this is where I'm at now and I just have to move forward.

So Greg, unless you've got another idea, it seems like the MA5 is the right transmission for me. I even contemplated putting an srt-4 motor in the Dart but when I saw how the rwd conversion went for another individual using the MA5 trans, and his lack of satisfaction with the clutch, I said screw that. As much as I love forced induction, this just isn't the right time.

 

[Mopar to ya]

I am going to let my brother in on this post. He has a 5.7 Hemi project and he is rethinking it because the tranny is so expensive. This may be another way to get the job done, and it is going into a Little Red Express clone. Lots of room. Good info here!

 

[DionR]

Couple of thoughts.

In regards to the gear ratios, The newer Mustang GT's with the 6 speeds (MT82, not the T-56 derivatives) run a 3.66 first gear, and a 3.55 final drive. That gives a 12.993 SLR, for comparison. The ratio spreads are better on that trans, though, as the GT get's a 1:1 fifth, so more spaces to spread the drop over. On the MA5, the splits are about 40%/40%/27%/27%. For reference, the standard A833OD has a 45%/40%/27% spread. So, in theory, a 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift on the MA would feel like a 2-3 shift on an A833OD. And the TKO-500 and R154 both have about a 40% drop from 1-2, too.

In regards to the flywheel, I know of one person that has relocated the pocket on the 3.9 bellhousing to work with a 130T flywheel. That is my plan for my R154 swap (if I ever get to it), and I got started on the layout for a jig, but haven't finished anything. I was working on building a plate based on a 727 bellhousing that would use the motor to bell holes to locate the starter pocket holes correctly. Then I was going to cut the pocket out, use the plate to locate it, and get it welded back together. Just an idea, but it would make it easier to find a flywheel. And it would solve some issues with the starter you will have to deal with since it is farther out into an area that is already way too tight.

Lastly, I would talk to Spec or someone about a clutch. They did a custom clutch for me when I was going to run my R154 behind a turbo slant. Built me a Stage 3 clutch that was the right diameter and splines to match up. Don't remember the price (it was a group buy on Slantsix.org), but seemed reasonable. Too bad it was a complete waste of money as the car and the project is long gone. Either way, they should be able to build you a 10.5" or 10.95" clutch to fit a standard 5.7 swap flywheel, and put the right splines in it, and I doubt you will need a Stage 3 to make it work, either.

 

[DionR]

I might add that the AR5 in the Solstice (MA5 is a Colorado trans) has a slightly different gear spread with a 1.51 ratio for third. This makes the gear drops 40%/33%/34%/27%. Plus the AR5 is supposed to have a shotpeened 1st and 2nd gear.

Also, the Colorado MA5 has a different shifter setup than the Solstice AR5 and might be difficult to swap into the car. I looked at this once and wasn't able to figure it out for sure, but I think the MA5 shifter is right about where the crossmember is on the A-Body. (not the best location) while the AR5 is a divorced shifter (and might be too far back).

And the MA5 was considerably cheaper than the AR5 the last time I looked.

 

[magnumdust]

I might add that the AR5 in the Solstice (MA5 is a Colorado trans) has a slightly different gear spread with a 1.51 ratio for third. This makes the gear drops 40%/33%/34%/27%. Plus the AR5 is supposed to have a shotpeened 1st and 2nd gear.

Also, the Colorado MA5 has a different shifter setup than the Solstice AR5 and might be difficult to swap into the car. I looked at this once and wasn't able to figure it out for sure, but I think the MA5 shifter is right about where the crossmember is on the A-Body. (not the best location) while the AR5 is a divorced shifter (and might be too far back).

And the MA5 was considerably cheaper than the AR5 the last time I looked.

That location puts the shifter in the same place as a t5/tko shifter.

 

[DionR]

That location puts the shifter in the same place as a t5/tko shifter.

Which trans, the MA5 or AR5, puts the shifter in the same location as the T5/TKO? Both?

Sorry, not following.

 

[magnumdust]

Well, since nobody seems to have any (other) thoughts I guess I'll just think out loud here...

Based on some of the discussion going on over here, the 3.9L bellhousing from a 94-99 Dakota (pictured above) is the best available option for mounting one of these Aisin transmissions to a 5.7 hemi. That 3.9L bellhousing however comes with some caveats, it requires an 11"/143-tooth flywheel. If you're bolting it to a standard smallblock you can just transfer over the V6 flywheel, however in my case, Mopar hooked me up and changed out crank bolt patterns. This means I have to find an 11"/143-tooth 5.7/6.1 hemi flywheel. Now, they are available, although expensive and aftermarket. I was trying to avoid aftermarket parts simply due to maintenance parts availability.

So... the MA5 is a little steep in the first gear department at 3.753:1. Certainly a lot of gear in comparison to nearly any aftermarket trans or factory available option. This affords me the ability to run a very conservative gear and keep my highway rpm's more than reasonable. Based on the recommendations of a multitude of sites online, the range of 9-11 for a starting line ratio (first gear x rear gear) is a good middle ground for a street car.

With a 2.93 rear gear I will be at 10.996, or 11 for simplicity's sake. Already on the high end of that range, my shorter tires, 315/35/R17's, are only 25.7" tall, effectively increasing my launch ratio. A 2.93 rear gear puts me just a hair under 2000 rpm's cruising at 70 mph in 5th.

With a 2.76 rear gear I will be at 10.36, more middle groundish, cruising at 70 around 1850 rpm.

3.23's seem a little too steep... My only concern is that this car will be a street car and see some parking lot autocross or time trials style races, a little quarter mile and stoplight to stoplight drags. Maybe even some standing mile or 1/2 mile, I think I'd really like to try that. Does 2.93 seem like a good compromise to those of you drive stick cars out there? Will it launch comfortably on the street and aggressively at the track, yet first gear won't be a waste and barely make it through a stop light? Would 2.76's be too tall? I'd also like to have a little room to go with some slightly taller tires in the rear if I decided to. I can't see going taller than 28" for what I'm trying to do.

In connection to all of that, I know steel flywheels are pretty much the rule for the street but would my high SLR and relatively low weight early A(shooting for 3500 lbs MAX with me in it, hopefully much less, just trying to be conservative) allow for the use of an 11" aluminum flywheel? I think it could be beneficial in the autocross and time trials situations. To be honest, this will be my first vehicle with a stick, I am thoroughly
excited about it.

I think you're shooting way too tall on the gearing. My DD runs 245/45/17s(25.8 tall tire). I've run 3.42s, 4.10s, and now 3.73s behind that transmission. At the track its done best with the 3.73s. It would never hook on street tires with the 4.10s.

Oh and just an FYI, these transmissions don't like powershifting, and grabbing 3rd at over 6000rpm is extremely hit or miss.(which is really frustrating when i'm winding the truck out to 7k in 2nd gear.

 

[magnumdust]

Which trans, the MA5 or AR5, puts the shifter in the same location as the T5/TKO? Both?

Sorry, not following.

sorry, the Ma5. If you look at TKO builds, they all hack that center crossmember because the shifter comes up right in that area. The T5 is just slightly forward, but most of it needs to be notched anyways.

 

[Greg55_99]

This pic is from the Pirate 4X4 site of an AX15 input shaft on the left:

I think you'll be OK. Just grind the tip of the MA5 down a bit.

Greg

 

[MoparPowa]

I am going to let my brother in on this post. He has a 5.7 Hemi project and he is rethinking it because the tranny is so expensive. This may be another way to get the job done, and it is going into a Little Red Express clone. Lots of room. Good info here!

The more the merrier!

Couple of thoughts.

In regards to the gear ratios, The newer Mustang GT's with the 6 speeds (MT82, not the T-56 derivatives) run a 3.66 first gear, and a 3.55 final drive. That gives a 12.993 SLR, for comparison. The ratio spreads are better on that trans, though, as the GT get's a 1:1 fifth, so more spaces to spread the drop over. On the MA5, the splits are about 40%/40%/27%/27%. For reference, the standard A833OD has a 45%/40%/27% spread. So, in theory, a 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift on the MA would feel like a 2-3 shift on an A833OD. And the TKO-500 and R154 both have about a 40% drop from 1-2, too.

In regards to the flywheel, I know of one person that has relocated the pocket on the 3.9 bellhousing to work with a 130T flywheel. That is my plan for my R154 swap (if I ever get to it), and I got started on the layout for a jig, but haven't finished anything. I was working on building a plate based on a 727 bellhousing that would use the motor to bell holes to locate the starter pocket holes correctly. Then I was going to cut the pocket out, use the plate to locate it, and get it welded back together. Just an idea, but it would make it easier to find a flywheel. And it would solve some issues with the starter you will have to deal with since it is farther out into an area that is already way too tight.

Lastly, I would talk to Spec or someone about a clutch. They did a custom clutch for me when I was going to run my R154 behind a turbo slant. Built me a Stage 3 clutch that was the right diameter and splines to match up. Don't remember the price (it was a group buy on Slantsix.org), but seemed reasonable. Too bad it was a complete waste of money as the car and the project is long gone. Either way, they should be able to build you a 10.5" or 10.95" clutch to fit a standard 5.7 swap flywheel, and put the right splines in it, and I doubt you will need a Stage 3 to make it work, either.

I'm not really interested in relocating the starter just to use a slightly smaller/lighter flywheel, it seems like too much work for the payoff. The 11" will be fine and I can just make sure it is drilled for a 10.5" clutch.

I might add that the AR5 in the Solstice (MA5 is a Colorado trans) has a slightly different gear spread with a 1.51 ratio for third. This makes the gear drops 40%/33%/34%/27%. Plus the AR5 is supposed to have a shotpeened 1st and 2nd gear.

Also, the Colorado MA5 has a different shifter setup than the Solstice AR5 and might be difficult to swap into the car. I looked at this once and wasn't able to figure it out for sure, but I think the MA5 shifter is right about where the crossmember is on the A-Body. (not the best location) while the AR5 is a divorced shifter (and might be too far back).

And the MA5 was considerably cheaper than the AR5 the last time I looked.

I'm aware of the different 3rd gear in the Soltice. The remote shifter I suspect will definitely be too far back and I don't really think the gearing of the Colorado trans is that bad. I understand it has some deeper rpm drops but the way I intend to use this car will be geared towards a flat torque curve and relatively low rpms(6k rpms +/-) as I don't intend to upgrade the shortblock and I want to be able to beat on the engine.

I think you're shooting way too tall on the gearing. My DD runs 245/45/17s(25.8 tall tire). I've run 3.42s, 4.10s, and now 3.73s behind that transmission. At the track its done best with the 3.73s. It would never hook on street tires with the 4.10s.

Oh and just an FYI, these transmissions don't like powershifting, and grabbing 3rd at over 6000rpm is extremely hit or miss.(which is really frustrating when i'm winding the truck out to 7k in 2nd gear.

That's disappointing to hear about the issues with high rpm shifts but as I stated above I don't intend to take the engine much further than 6k. I'm certainly open to any suggestions on gearing, I just don't want first gear to be useless on the street.

sorry, the Ma5. If you look at TKO builds, they all hack that center crossmember because the shifter comes up right in that area. The T5 is just slightly forward, but most of it needs to be notched anyways.

Any pictures of this? That does seem a ways back further than I expected and I'd like to be able to use a stock 4-speed console...

This pic is from the Pirate 4X4 site of an AX15 input shaft on the left:

I think you'll be OK. Just grind the tip of the MA5 down a bit.

Greg

That's what I figured Greg, thanks for looking into it.

 

[DionR]

I'm not really interested in relocating the starter just to use a slightly smaller/lighter flywheel, it seems like too much work for the payoff.

Just pointing it out. Buschi had to relocate a couple of tubes on his headers (as I recall) when he had the LA motor in his car, not sure what he did when he put the Hemi in. At the time, I don't remember him being able to find an 143T flywheel because he had the Dakota one welded up and drilled, so it sounds like things have changed.

I'm aware of the different 3rd gear in the Soltice. The remote shifter I suspect will definitely be too far back and I don't really think the gearing of the Colorado trans is that bad. I understand it has some deeper rpm drops but the way I intend to use this car will be geared towards a flat torque curve and relatively low rpms(6k rpms +/-) as I don't intend to upgrade the shortblock and I want to be able to beat on the engine.

Again, just making sure you were aware, not trying to steer you a different direction.

I agree that the AR5 divorced shifter will be too far back, but I still think the MA5 shifter is going to right in line with the TB crossmember.

Here is Buschi's R154 with a Dakota bell:

This is from a guy on Neons.org that put a 2.4 and MA5 in a '77 Celica:

Comparing the two pictures makes me think the shifter on the MA5 will require some additional crossmember work.

Again, just trying to help, not trying to discourage.

 

[Greg55_99]

Some AX15 pics here;

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=257402&highlight=ax15

Greg

 

[71Scamper]

I don't remember Buschi having to relocate tubes on his headers. If that's the case then my R-154 trans swap is going no where cause I don't want to ruin my new Doug's headers.

Is Buschi's a right hand drive? He does live in Europe you know and that would make sense about the headers.

 

[DionR]

I don't remember Buschi having to relocate tubes on his headers. If that's the case then my R-154 trans swap is going no where cause I don't want to ruin my new Doug's headers.

Is Buschi's a right hand drive? He does live in Europe you know and that would make sense about the headers.

He is left had drive, like the US. He's in Germany, they must drive on the correct side like we do.

I can't seem to link to a specific post from Moparts, but here is the thread starting at page 7 (I think) with the post about the exhaust at the top - here.

No idea what he did for exhaust when he swapped to a 3G Hemi.

 

[DionR]

Looks like Buschi used TTI headers when he went to the Hemi. All of the issues above are related to the LA headers he had in the car, so maybe the TTI's with the Hemi don't interfere. I guess you'd have to ask Buschi.