Magnum Retrofit

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vynn3

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I've got a line on a 5.2 Magnum out of a '99 Durango I'm considering for my '67 Dart GT, to replace the 273. I'd like to use it pretty much as-is with a pair of headers. I know I'll need the computer and have the wiring harness modified, and there's a guy over on Moparts.com who will do it for $250.

Any other special considerations I need to keep in mind? The wiring harness mods should cover the lack of an electronic trans. If I remember correctly, motor mounts bolt up. The radiator needs replacing anyway, so I can switch to a driver's in, passenger out version to match the Magnum.

Anything else?
 
you'll need an la center sump pan. i believe it's the 360 center sump that fits all magnums but not 100% positive. someone else please chime in and confirm this.
 
you will need the center sump pan and pick up tube. Kevco racing sales a real nice unit. $180.00 for the pan and $40.00 for the pick up tube.
 
you will need the center sump pan and pick up tube. Kevco racing sales a real nice unit. $180.00 for the pan and $40.00 for the pick up tube.

Ouch! See, this is why I asked...

Learn somethin' new...
 
You may also have to grind the truck motor mount ears off the block for the headers to fit.

This page will answer most of your questions.

http://www.magnumswap.com/
 
Glad I could help, the gentleman that owns the site, is a stand up guy and will answer pm here if you have an issue.
 
I thought 5.2 and 5.9 oil pans were different?

Yes, this swap has been done thousands of times, but most folks just switch to a carb. My main concerns aren't the obvious, physical stuff. It's all the technical details required to use the factory EFI, ignition, and computer.

Thought of something else: electric fuel pump and return line to the tank. The current tank is in pretty bad shape, so I'll likely replace it anyway and get one with with an in-tank sump and pump.
 
Not sure if you are thinking about adding a power distribution block under the hood, but now would be the time. It'll have all of the fuses and relays needed to run an electric fan ,fuel pump and such. If this is a power steering car, you also may want to look into the bracket from a van, it puts the PS pump down just enough vs the truck bracket to clear the battery tray. I already had an in-line pump ( gsl 392 ) and I'm using a filter/regulator with a return line from a GM car.
I'm also keeping the OEM EFI stuff and I'm almost done with the wiring on mine, basically removing all of the ABS,cruise control and other wiring from the C3 connector harness. I'm shooting for this weekend so I'll let you know what's involved, but initial start up consisted of jumping in 3 or 4 hots and she fired.
 
you'll need an la center sump pan. i believe it's the 360 center sump that fits all magnums but not 100% positive. someone else please chime in and confirm this.
Yes. It's a 360 LA pan that you need.

I have a Magnum 318-390 stroker in my Dart right now.
 
Ouch! See, this is why I asked...

Learn somethin' new...
Check with Mancini Racing too. I didn't pay that much.

I'm running a Milodon pan and their pickup tube.
 
I thought 5.2 and 5.9 oil pans were different?

Yes, this swap has been done thousands of times, but most folks just switch to a carb. My main concerns aren't the obvious, physical stuff. It's all the technical details required to use the factory EFI, ignition, and computer.

Thought of something else: electric fuel pump and return line to the tank. The current tank is in pretty bad shape, so I'll likely replace it anyway and get one with with an in-tank sump and pump.
The 5.2 and 5.9 Magnum pans are the same. That's one of the changes between LA and Magnum motors.

I am running a carb on mine, so I just replaced the factory tank and ran an electric pump with no return, as it's a low pressure system.
 
Not sure if you are thinking about adding a power distribution block under the hood, but now would be the time. It'll have all of the fuses and relays needed to run an electric fan ,fuel pump and such. If this is a power steering car, you also may want to look into the bracket from a van, it puts the PS pump down just enough vs the truck bracket to clear the battery tray. I already had an in-line pump ( gsl 392 ) and I'm using a filter/regulator with a return line from a GM car.
I'm also keeping the OEM EFI stuff and I'm almost done with the wiring on mine, basically removing all of the ABS,cruise control and other wiring from the C3 connector harness. I'm shooting for this weekend so I'll let you know what's involved, but initial start up consisted of jumping in 3 or 4 hots and she fired.

All good ideas -- thanks!
 
The 5.2 and 5.9 Magnum pans are the same. That's one of the changes between LA and Magnum motors.

Gotcha. Knew I got that info somewhere. It was LA info. Thanks!
 
Just finished swapping a 2001 5.9 in my '68. Eventually, I will put in a 46rh, but for now I'm running a 727. I used a Dodge Ram 2500, 5 speed OBDII computer from Solo PCM's in Florida. They zero'd out the VIN and milage. I used an SCT Tuner purchased from Scott a.k.a. Hemi Fever.

The long block was out of a 90k mile Durango that had a small fuel fire from a leak at the rear injector crossover hose. I washed the exteriorior of the motor, resealed everything, bead blasted, gasket matched and modified the inside of the stock intake, gasket matched the heads, threw in a fresh set of rod bearings, a new true roller timing chain and a Hughes Engines spec'd cam and springs, Hughes pluenum kit, a set of Mopar Performance valve covers and a milodon oil pan and pick up and finally I painted it and the accessories. I never had the heads off.

With a 3.23 suregrip, it will smoke them off with ease and chirps the tires hard into second gear. It's probably a high 13 second car as is.

The wiring harness was from Hotwire Auto, but it was not without some minor issues.

Exhaust was house brand from Summit including headers and full dual exhaust. Fit and quality were excellent requiring only minor massaging. I did strip and repaint the headers with VHT paint.

For the fuel system, I used the stock tank with 3/8 feed and return, a low pressure electric fuel pump pushing fuel to a surge tank mounted up front. It runs excellent even with only a couple gallons in the tank. Way better than a sumped or baffeled in tank system, as any bubbles are expelled before the high pressure pump can ingest them and feed them to the injectors.

Overall, it was a bit of a pain, because I had to learn all about EFI and the sensors, decidwhich way to go with the fuel system, and overcome the normal incidentals associated with this type of a swap, but it's soooo worth it now that its done.

As far as the power steering, it bolted right up to my factory ps box. I used a narrower battery and cut my battery tray to clear the pump instead of using the van PS pump and having to mess with the serpentine set-up from a van. I used the stock Durango set-up.
 

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Yes, great write up. I got some inspiration from this guy during my mid winter conversion blues.
 
Just finished swapping a 2001 5.9 in my '68. Eventually, I will put in a 46rh, but for now I'm running a 727. I used a Dodge Ram 2500, 5 speed OBDII computer from Solo PCM's in Florida. They zero'd out the VIN and milage. I used an SCT Tuner purchased from Scott a.k.a. Hemi Fever.

The long block was out of a 90k mile Durango that had a small fuel fire from a leak at the rear injector crossover hose. I washed the exteriorior of the motor, resealed everything, bead blasted, gasket matched and modified the inside of the stock intake, gasket matched the heads, threw in a fresh set of rod bearings, a new true roller timing chain and a Hughes Engines spec'd cam and springs, Hughes pluenum kit, a set of Mopar Performance valve covers and a milodon oil pan and pick up and finally I painted it and the accessories. I never had the heads off.

With a 3.23 suregrip, it will smoke them off with ease and chirps the tires hard into second gear. It's probably a high 13 second car as is.

The wiring harness was from Hotwire Auto, but it was not without some minor issues.

Exhaust was house brand from Summit including headers and full dual exhaust. Fit and quality were excellent requiring only minor massaging. I did strip and repaint the headers with VHT paint.

For the fuel system, I used the stock tank with 3/8 feed and return, a low pressure electric fuel pump pushing fuel to a surge tank mounted up front. It runs excellent even with only a couple gallons in the tank. Way better than a sumped or baffeled in tank system, as any bubbles are expelled before the high pressure pump can ingest them and feed them to the injectors.

Overall, it was a bit of a pain, because I had to learn all about EFI and the sensors, decidwhich way to go with the fuel system, and overcome the normal incidentals associated with this type of a swap, but it's soooo worth it now that its done.

As far as the power steering, it bolted right up to my factory ps box. I used a narrower battery and cut my battery tray to clear the pump instead of using the van PS pump and having to mess with the serpentine set-up from a van. I used the stock Durango set-up.

Great info! Thanks!
 
Exhaust was house brand from Summit including headers and full dual exhaust. Fit and quality were excellent requiring only minor massaging. I did strip and repaint the headers with VHT paint.

Nice post & pics. Any idea how the Summit headers compare to TTI or Dougs for ground clearance?
 
Nice post & pics. Any idea how the Summit headers compare to TTI or Dougs for ground clearance?

Thanks guys! I can't comment on the ground clearance issues between the different manufacturers you've listed, but do know that some of the others are routed above the drag link. For the money, you'd be hard pressed to do better than the Summit stuff.
 
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