Main Bearing replacement guideance

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"Dart67"

"Dart67"

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I am in the process of redoing my 440 based 512 due to a loss of oil pressure.
I had to have the main journals turned .010.

The block is a 1966 casting.

I used Clevite Main bearing set MS-869P on the Original build. This was a Full Grove main bearing set.
I am unable to find this bearing set anywhere.

I am looking at using the Speed Pro 3/4 Grove 119M10 Main Bearing Set.

Would this be a good choice?
If not, point me to what I need.

Thanks In Advance, Herb, aka "Dart67"
 
Hi Herb. Just a question if you don't mind. Did you actually find the cause of the oil pressure loss?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Hi Herb. Just a question if you don't mind. Did you actually find the cause of the oil pressure loss?
Click to expand...
Yes....
The Oilpan meet the bridge deck down the road from the house.
I was logging my FAST EFI when it happened and the oil pressure dropped to Zero when the two meet.
Then slowly came back up some as I drove back to the shop. Plus the bearing clearance was on the loose side to begin with.
 
"Dart67" said:
Yes....
The Oilpan meet the bridge deck down the road from the house.
I was logging my FAST EFI when it happened and the oil pressure dropped to Zero when the two meet.
Then slowly came back up some as I drove back to the shop. Plus the bearing clearance was on the loose side to begin with.
Click to expand...

If you cannot find the full groove set, you can use two sets and use the uppers in the main caps. You'll have to modify the bearings I believe as the locking tabs will be on the wrong side, so you'll have to file them off. You can add new lock tabs in the appropriate places if you want, but it's not necessary, as the bearing crush will keep them in place. I've always added them anyway in the past when I've done that.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you cannot find the full groove set, you can use two sets and use the uppers in the main caps. You'll have to modify the bearings I believe as the locking tabs will be on the wrong side, so you'll have to file them off. You can add new lock tabs in the appropriate places if you want, but it's not necessary, as the bearing crush will keep them in place. I've always added them anyway in the past when I've done that.
Click to expand...

Would the Speed Pro 3/4 Grove 119M10 Main Bearing Set be a good choice to use?
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you cannot find the full groove set, you can use two sets and use the uppers in the main caps. You'll have to modify the bearings I believe as the locking tabs will be on the wrong side, so you'll have to file them off. You can add new lock tabs in the appropriate places if you want, but it's not necessary, as the bearing crush will keep them in place. I've always added them anyway in the past when I've done that.
Click to expand...
How do you add a locking tab to the main bearing?
 
92b said:
How do you add a locking tab to the main bearing?
Click to expand...

I've done a few. I hit the lock tab with a flap wheel and get it smooth. Clamp the main cap in a vise, locate the bearing, mark where the tab needs to be and make an indention with a center punch right over the notch for the tab. All it needs is a slight indention into the notch to keep it in place laterally. It doesn't need much at all. Some people don't even do that, because the bearing crush keeps the bearing in place. With the top bearing having a lock tab, how can either go anywhere?
 
When you take the upper shell of the second set of bearing and slip it into the main cap as the lower shell the tab is the same just on the other side. Because it is now flipped over.

The only one this does not work on is the wide bearing at the back of the small block. The two tabs on the upper and lower bearings are in different locations but on the sb the rear bearing is usually full groved anyway.
 
Last edited:
Jadaharabi said:
When you take the upper shell of the bearing and slip it into the main cap as the lower shell the tab is the same just on the other side. Because it is now flipped over.

The only one this does not work on is the wide bearing at the back of the small block. The two tabs on the upper and lower bearings are in different locations but on the sb the rear bearing is usually full groved anyway.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know. There's no corresponding notch in the main cap, though. What's your solution? You could grind another notch in the cap, I guess.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah I know. There's no corresponding notch in the main cap, though. What's your solution? You could grind another notch in the cap, I guess.
Click to expand...

What do you mean there are no notches.?

The Caps have their original notches. You can take the upper shell and put it in the lower cap because one notch in the cap is on one side and the notch in the block is on the opposite side. If you look at your bearings when you take them out of the box all of the bearings have the tab on the same side. Except the sb rear bearings.
 
Jadaharabi said:
What do you mean there are no notches.?

The Caps have their original notches. You can take the upper shell and put it in the lower cap because one notch in the cap is on one side and the notch in the block is on the opposite side. If you look at your bearings when you take them out of the box all of the bearings have the tab on the same side. Except the sb rear bearings.
Click to expand...

I hope you're right. I'm going on what I've read here and everywhere else, plus what I've done on other engines. I've never done it on the slant 6 so I don't know for sure, but I can tell you in a few minutes.
 
Jadaharabi said:
What do you mean there are no notches.?

The Caps have their original notches. You can take the upper shell and put it in the lower cap because one notch in the cap is on one side and the notch in the block is on the opposite side. If you look at your bearings when you take them out of the box all of the bearings have the tab on the same side. Except the sb rear bearings.
Click to expand...

Your're dead right, Randall. I thank you for that. Just running the tops in the caps is a bolt in deal. Sorry for the bad info here.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I've done a few. I hit the lock tab with a flap wheel and get it smooth. Clamp the main cap in a vise, locate the bearing, mark where the tab needs to be and make an indention with a center punch right over the notch for the tab. All it needs is a slight indention into the notch to keep it in place laterally. It doesn't need much at all. Some people don't even do that, because the bearing crush keeps the bearing in place. With the top bearing having a lock tab, how can either go anywhere?
Click to expand...
So on the few you have done what application was it for?
 
"Dart67" said:
I am in the process of redoing my 440 based 512 due to a loss of oil pressure.
I had to have the main journals turned .010.

The block is a 1966 casting.

I used Clevite Main bearing set MS-869P on the Original build. This was a Full Grove main bearing set.
I am unable to find this bearing set anywhere.

I am looking at using the Speed Pro 3/4 Grove 119M10 Main Bearing Set.

Would this be a good choice?
If not, point me to what I need.

Thanks In Advance, Herb, aka "Dart67"
Click to expand...
Do u not need a H series bearing for an aftermarket stroker crank? I’m under the impression u need the narrow bearings because of the raised fillets on the journals. A P series is a stock build bearing is it not? Or am I thinking wrong? Thanks. Kim
 
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