Manual steering box rebuild

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MOPARMAGA

" The other hard member"
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Who right now makes a kit to rebuild a factory manual steering box. Im looking to be a low 10 second car and would really like some stable steering lol.
If anyone has any leads I'd really appreciate it.
 
Pretty cool, I didn't get notifications from my own thread
 
two B-1812 bearings for cover and upper sector
one B-1816 bearing lower sector to give greater support than original which was a 18-12

for the worm shaft you need 2 caged ball bearings and in really bad cases of rust 2 races.
I've not had to change a race ever

Chrysler part was 2072060
but here are a load of equivalents its basically a Saginaw manual steering part

if the cages are not broken you can spend s few pennies on bags of new hardened steel balls to go in the cages i.e if one ball flatted or corroded swap em all out with new.
not tried a full compliment without the cage, would be hard to do.


1701688830709.png


upper worm shaft seal
Chrysler 2267156, Timken or National 7214 seems to be equivalent

sector seal
Chrysler 2127154 or Chicago rawhide 11067


sector shaft
2127104 or the superseded part 3643018 which was made until at least 2004)
I got mine from AMS Obsolete it was not cheap you rarely need a new one.

put the superseded part number in here

https://www.amsnos.com/PS.aspx
they still have them new and i purchased mine 8 years ago... so demand must not be that great. i only needed one because my steering box had been reconditioned by an idiot who thought the teeth should be parallel and had made good use of his file.... :(


my 16:1 worm screw came from firmfeel.
you can find 20:1 on ebay from time to time
24:1 always the cheapest
not sure whats is best for drag race something dead in the middle I guess
you are going fast so small input results in big change in direction maybe 24:1



this is all for a standard manual steering box with bearings, not bushes made from 1961 on wards.
1959/60 were much the same with a 5 tooth sectors and subtle differences in the seals


I basically renewed everything but the case and adjuster

I've done a couple more since
you may find the two tubes of grease you need red NLGI II seems to work ok, cost more than some of the bearings and seals

I enjoy the fact that i have a good local bearing supplier who will get me stuff :)

Dave.
 
Last edited:
two B-1812 bearings for cover and upper sector
one B-1816 bearing lower sector to give greater support than original which was a 18-12

for the worm shaft you need 2 caged ball bearings and in really bad cases of rust 2 races.
I've not had to change a race ever

Chrysler part was 2072060
but here are a load of equivalents its basically a Saginaw manual steering part

if the cages are not broken you can spend s few pennies on bags of new hardened steel balls to go in the cages i.e if one ball flatted or corroded swap em all out with new.
not tried a full compliment without the cage, would be hard to do.


View attachment 1716174018

upper worm shaft seal
Chrysler 2267156, Timken or National 7214 seems to be equivalent

sector seal
Chrysler 2127154 or Chicago rawhide 11067


sector shaft
2127104 or the superseded part 3643018 which was made until at least 2004)
I got mine from AMS Obsolete it was not cheap you rarely need a new one.

put the superseded part number in here

https://www.amsnos.com/PS.aspx
they still have them new and i purchased mine 8 years ago... so demand must not be that great. i only needed one because my steering box had been reconditioned by an idiot who thought the teeth should be parallel and had made good use of his file.... :(


my 16:1 worm screw came from firmfeel.
you can find 20:1 on ebay from time to time
24:1 always the cheapest
not sure whats is best for drag race something dead in the middle I guess
you are going fast so small input results in big change in direction maybe 24:1



this is all for a standard manual steering box with bearings, not bushes made from 1961 on wards.
1959/60 were much the same with a 5 tooth sectors and subtle differences in the seals


I basically renewed everything but the case and adjuster

I've done a couple more since
you may find the two tubes of grease you need red NLGI II seems to work ok, cost more than some of the bearings and seals

I enjoy the fact that i have a good local bearing supplier who will get me stuff :)

Dave.
Wow thanks dave. This is great information
 
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