David Flowers
Well-Known Member
Any body have experience with it on a 3 g hemi?
Megasquirt ems
- Thread starter David Flowers
- Start date
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blown71duster
Well-Known Member
You might contact these guys, they put megasquirt on a new challenger race car.
http://www.diyautotune.com/
http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=38891
http://www.diyautotune.com/
http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=38891
ateam
A motor can
FWIW, I just ordered their efi book, being a newbie to this high-tech stuff. Looks like Megasquirt III to run cop, E85 and boost. This hemi build, will take pleny o' readin/ritin . ateam.:read2:
David Flowers
Well-Known Member
your not kidding ateam, so far all i have been doing is reading trying to get up to speed on things. it would be so much easier just going carb but so much more fun having efi.
ateam
A motor can
> Knowing jus' enough to be dangerous, I have this crazy plan to "convert". 160lb/hr. injectors, on the way. "Don't try this in a wooden garage". lol, ateam.:home:
With the title, I thought this would be something for the blue forum LOL
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
I haven't set mine up yet, Hell I haven't even bought the ECM yet but I have done a lot of the research, and bought a few parts. Here's a couple of things that I can tell you.
You can use Megasquirt, and tuning is getting easier all the time, if you spend a little extra and get a wide band O2 sensor, the thing will practically tune itself. Megasquirt now has an Autotune feature, that utilizes a wideband O2 sensor to dynamically tune the motor.
You'll want to go with Megasquirt III which will allow you use the factory coil on plug coils, the factory CKP (crankshaft position sensor) CMP camshaft position sensor. The MS III controller will allow you to do fully sequential fuel injection, and spark. Megasquirt III, can even utilize your factory Knock sensors, though it requires some extra work. The Gen III hemi uses a crank and camshaft tone ring very similar to those used on the Dodge Neon, and thus there have been people Megasquirting Hemis for a while now.
You'll need to replace the drive by wire throttle body with a cable operated throttle body complete with a TPS (throttle position switch) and IAC (Idle Air Control). Mopar Performance has an 80mm throttle body, (the same size as stock) but it is pricey at $500.00. Or you can use an Chevy LS style cable operated throttle body, Fuel Air Spark has an adapter for $68.00 that works with their 92mm cable operated throttle body. I made my own adapter and am using a 85mm POWER throttle body I bought off of ebay for 100.00. Incidently the opening on the 6.1 Hemi Manifold is right at 84-85 mm so an 85mm throttle body seems like a good fit to me.
The above poster is correct, the guys at DIY Autotune have installed megasquirt on a 6.1 or 392 Hemi Challenger. They've promised to do a write up but right now all that is available on their website are a bunch of pics of them doing the wiring.
One last thing, if you build your own box and make your own wiring harness, Megasquirt is the CHEAPEST way to get a modern hemi going. A spark controller, Manifold, and Carb will run you right at $1500.00. I'll have just under a thousand into my megasquirt setup when all is said and done and that includes the following:
Megasquirt ECM
Wiring Harness
Fuel System, including pump, regulator, and filter
Throttle body and sensors
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
You can use Megasquirt, and tuning is getting easier all the time, if you spend a little extra and get a wide band O2 sensor, the thing will practically tune itself. Megasquirt now has an Autotune feature, that utilizes a wideband O2 sensor to dynamically tune the motor.
You'll want to go with Megasquirt III which will allow you use the factory coil on plug coils, the factory CKP (crankshaft position sensor) CMP camshaft position sensor. The MS III controller will allow you to do fully sequential fuel injection, and spark. Megasquirt III, can even utilize your factory Knock sensors, though it requires some extra work. The Gen III hemi uses a crank and camshaft tone ring very similar to those used on the Dodge Neon, and thus there have been people Megasquirting Hemis for a while now.
You'll need to replace the drive by wire throttle body with a cable operated throttle body complete with a TPS (throttle position switch) and IAC (Idle Air Control). Mopar Performance has an 80mm throttle body, (the same size as stock) but it is pricey at $500.00. Or you can use an Chevy LS style cable operated throttle body, Fuel Air Spark has an adapter for $68.00 that works with their 92mm cable operated throttle body. I made my own adapter and am using a 85mm POWER throttle body I bought off of ebay for 100.00. Incidently the opening on the 6.1 Hemi Manifold is right at 84-85 mm so an 85mm throttle body seems like a good fit to me.
The above poster is correct, the guys at DIY Autotune have installed megasquirt on a 6.1 or 392 Hemi Challenger. They've promised to do a write up but right now all that is available on their website are a bunch of pics of them doing the wiring.
One last thing, if you build your own box and make your own wiring harness, Megasquirt is the CHEAPEST way to get a modern hemi going. A spark controller, Manifold, and Carb will run you right at $1500.00. I'll have just under a thousand into my megasquirt setup when all is said and done and that includes the following:
Megasquirt ECM
Wiring Harness
Fuel System, including pump, regulator, and filter
Throttle body and sensors
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Thanks Joe! Looks like we'll be talking more in the future!!!
Matt at diyautotune And I have sent a few emails back and forth. He said they're in the process of making and ignition module that will replace the need of 2 Bosch 211's. He wouldn't commit to a release date, said the same guys do sales and product development, so it will just happen as they have time. They will do the write up after they release the ignition modules. Maybe if enough of us get together and want the write up and modules, they'll get on it sooner than later.
What is your plan for ignition? From reading, I guess the hemi coil packs are high current coil packs (vs logic packs like the ls coils?). And that's why we need an external ignition module? Does it really just increase the signal? I know the logic output on the ms3 is 5v, and I saw it mentioned that the Bosch 211 has a 5 amp output or something.
We're definitely looking at the throttle body adapter idea. I'm not sure how big I need to go- the heads I have are 5.7 stage III extremes from fri/gtp, flowed like 350+. Looking for 500+ with a stock short block and small cam. I used a conversion calc that said 90mm tb is good for 468 hp- would I need to go bigger?
Ijust bought used injectors- 40 lb/hr at 40 psi, which is 48 lb/hr at 60 psi. Looking at the walbro external 255 equivalent for a pump, and I bought an external reservoir from the bronco website (built out of a fuel filter- 1 quart capacity). I don't have a low pressure pump picked out yet. Bought a half inch pickup, and looking at half inch fuel and return lines. What are you doing for a fuel pressure regulator?
Matt at diyautotune And I have sent a few emails back and forth. He said they're in the process of making and ignition module that will replace the need of 2 Bosch 211's. He wouldn't commit to a release date, said the same guys do sales and product development, so it will just happen as they have time. They will do the write up after they release the ignition modules. Maybe if enough of us get together and want the write up and modules, they'll get on it sooner than later.
What is your plan for ignition? From reading, I guess the hemi coil packs are high current coil packs (vs logic packs like the ls coils?). And that's why we need an external ignition module? Does it really just increase the signal? I know the logic output on the ms3 is 5v, and I saw it mentioned that the Bosch 211 has a 5 amp output or something.
We're definitely looking at the throttle body adapter idea. I'm not sure how big I need to go- the heads I have are 5.7 stage III extremes from fri/gtp, flowed like 350+. Looking for 500+ with a stock short block and small cam. I used a conversion calc that said 90mm tb is good for 468 hp- would I need to go bigger?
Ijust bought used injectors- 40 lb/hr at 40 psi, which is 48 lb/hr at 60 psi. Looking at the walbro external 255 equivalent for a pump, and I bought an external reservoir from the bronco website (built out of a fuel filter- 1 quart capacity). I don't have a low pressure pump picked out yet. Bought a half inch pickup, and looking at half inch fuel and return lines. What are you doing for a fuel pressure regulator?
ateam
A motor can
> I spoke with the owner of "F&B", at Fall Fling. We discussed how to get good atomization, with Accel "port" injectors, in the former primary ports of Thermoquads,ie. a flat sided rod for the injecter to squirt onto,(cow pissin on flat rock). I think I should pay him, to help with the prototype. He is interested, because he is losing some bussiness because his TB's look like, well, TB's. This is cool, wer'e having a Megsquirt clan within a Gen III hemi clan. ateam.:thumrigh:
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Uhcoog1,
Your research is correct, the logic output of the MS 3X will not directly drive the coils on the Hemi you need some ignition ignitors to do the job. Using Bosch 211 modules is probably the most elegant unfortunately it has a big downside though, as using two 211 ignition modules is expensive. They range in price from 49.99 for some new off brand 211s I found on ebay, or 49.99 for some used 211s that are genuine Bosch. Prices for new genuine Bosch units run about a $150.00 EACH! Yikes. The more economical option is to use 8 Bosch BIP373 DIY Autotune sells them for $8.50 Each. As of right now, I plan to use 8 BIP373. Obviously it takes a bit more fabrication and work.
Glen's Garage used to sell a nifty little board that facilitated using multiple BIP373. Unfortunately Glen's Garage is no longer in business, his website is still up, DO NOT SEND HIM ANY MONEY. I ordered a couple of his ignition boards, (total cost 21.00 so not a real big deal, but still irritates me), order is still pending several months later. GRRRR.
As far as throttle body sizing, I would be hesitant to go to big, as it can negatively affect throttle response. I took a caliper and measured the opening on the aluminum 6.1 manifold on my motor and it is between 84mm and 85mm. I don't see any point going 90mm, I chose 85 because I got it dirt cheap on ebay. If you look around you'll find that most ported throttle bodies for the Hemi are 85mm. The Hemi's cantered valve is so much more efficient than a wedge head that I don't think you need as big a throttle body. Hot Rod did a cam test in which they installed all three different Comp Cams hemi camshafts. Basically with the biggest comp Hemi Cam right at .550 lift, and set of headers, and the stock composite intake, the motor made 475 HP. The following month they added ported heads and were over 500. So I think you're well on your way to 500 HP.
Now if you are looking to save some money and are going to go with a small cam, under .550 lift you could go with a Hughes cam. They have a reground cam for only $199.00. You can see the cam here: http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...3LzYuMSBNb2Rlcm4gSGVtaQ==&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnRz
I've read a lot of nice things on the web, about the quality of Hughes products, FWIW.
As you can see in the above paragraph, even with a stock bottom end you should be right at the 500 HP level. Which from what I've read is about the limit of the stock pistons, anyway. The rods are allegedly good to 600, and the cast crank about 650. The top ring land on the pistons are so thin, but at the 500 HP level and no detonation you should be good. If you plan any NOS, I certainly wouldn't put more than a 100 shot of NOS, and would make sure that the mixture is rich. Now, if you are using the stock composite manifold, it will cost you a bit of HP, but I wouldn't despair, that plastic manifold is so efficient and good at making torque that your area under the curve is going to be higher with the plastic manifold than it would be with the aluminum single plane mopar performance manifold. You could also look for a 6.1 Manifold and port match it, to your 5.7 heads, although I've never seen them on ebay, they typically want around $600.00 for them.
As far as fuel pumps go, I really want to use an intank pump. HotRodCity makes custom aluminum gas tanks for Darts. They will modify the tank for an in tank pump. If I can afford it that's the way I'll go. As far as regulator, I will probably buy one from DIY, their prices seem to be very compettitve.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Your research is correct, the logic output of the MS 3X will not directly drive the coils on the Hemi you need some ignition ignitors to do the job. Using Bosch 211 modules is probably the most elegant unfortunately it has a big downside though, as using two 211 ignition modules is expensive. They range in price from 49.99 for some new off brand 211s I found on ebay, or 49.99 for some used 211s that are genuine Bosch. Prices for new genuine Bosch units run about a $150.00 EACH! Yikes. The more economical option is to use 8 Bosch BIP373 DIY Autotune sells them for $8.50 Each. As of right now, I plan to use 8 BIP373. Obviously it takes a bit more fabrication and work.
Glen's Garage used to sell a nifty little board that facilitated using multiple BIP373. Unfortunately Glen's Garage is no longer in business, his website is still up, DO NOT SEND HIM ANY MONEY. I ordered a couple of his ignition boards, (total cost 21.00 so not a real big deal, but still irritates me), order is still pending several months later. GRRRR.
As far as throttle body sizing, I would be hesitant to go to big, as it can negatively affect throttle response. I took a caliper and measured the opening on the aluminum 6.1 manifold on my motor and it is between 84mm and 85mm. I don't see any point going 90mm, I chose 85 because I got it dirt cheap on ebay. If you look around you'll find that most ported throttle bodies for the Hemi are 85mm. The Hemi's cantered valve is so much more efficient than a wedge head that I don't think you need as big a throttle body. Hot Rod did a cam test in which they installed all three different Comp Cams hemi camshafts. Basically with the biggest comp Hemi Cam right at .550 lift, and set of headers, and the stock composite intake, the motor made 475 HP. The following month they added ported heads and were over 500. So I think you're well on your way to 500 HP.
Now if you are looking to save some money and are going to go with a small cam, under .550 lift you could go with a Hughes cam. They have a reground cam for only $199.00. You can see the cam here: http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...3LzYuMSBNb2Rlcm4gSGVtaQ==&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnRz
I've read a lot of nice things on the web, about the quality of Hughes products, FWIW.
As you can see in the above paragraph, even with a stock bottom end you should be right at the 500 HP level. Which from what I've read is about the limit of the stock pistons, anyway. The rods are allegedly good to 600, and the cast crank about 650. The top ring land on the pistons are so thin, but at the 500 HP level and no detonation you should be good. If you plan any NOS, I certainly wouldn't put more than a 100 shot of NOS, and would make sure that the mixture is rich. Now, if you are using the stock composite manifold, it will cost you a bit of HP, but I wouldn't despair, that plastic manifold is so efficient and good at making torque that your area under the curve is going to be higher with the plastic manifold than it would be with the aluminum single plane mopar performance manifold. You could also look for a 6.1 Manifold and port match it, to your 5.7 heads, although I've never seen them on ebay, they typically want around $600.00 for them.
As far as fuel pumps go, I really want to use an intank pump. HotRodCity makes custom aluminum gas tanks for Darts. They will modify the tank for an in tank pump. If I can afford it that's the way I'll go. As far as regulator, I will probably buy one from DIY, their prices seem to be very compettitve.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Joe-
Sweet- thanks for the confirmation on the ignition igniters. The BIP373 looks like the way to go- maybe DIY will come out with their set up soon (I'm sure they're going to use the BIP373).
I guess I need to do more research on throttle bodies. My partner in crime, Alex (putting a 6.1 in his 68 roadrunner) worked for Frank Racing a couple years back for a couple years, so he is my main source of knowledge for these questions. He's now working with GTP racing, selling heads for them. I think I'll probably end up porting the intake and adapter (not myself- GTP). I have a 6.1 intake that I'm using ($450 is current market value - there's a few on ebay now actually). The 5.7 heads I have actually have larger runners than the 6.1 intake, so there is port matching that needs to be done on that end.
I'm going to be using a Frank Racing cam- don't know the exact specs. Prob 215/219 @.50, with .550 lift or something around there.
The combo I'm going to be running has run mid to low 11's in the 4000+ lb lx's.
I did some reading on the custom tanks- the guys on lateral-g.net have compained about the custom efi tanks ($899+ with all the added baffling) still not keeping the in tank pump covered in fuel. I researched the different solutions - in tank reservoir, in tank reservoir with trap doors, external reservoir, baffles in tank, sump added to tank, etc. From the reviews, I don't think baffles are enough alone (for my application, anyway). Baffles with a sump, maybe, or baffles with an in tank pump that pulls gas from other areas of the fuel tank to dump in your reservoir, maybe. It all got complicated and expensive, so I went with the $50 1/2" pickup and the $70 external reservoir.
Sweet- thanks for the confirmation on the ignition igniters. The BIP373 looks like the way to go- maybe DIY will come out with their set up soon (I'm sure they're going to use the BIP373).
I guess I need to do more research on throttle bodies. My partner in crime, Alex (putting a 6.1 in his 68 roadrunner) worked for Frank Racing a couple years back for a couple years, so he is my main source of knowledge for these questions. He's now working with GTP racing, selling heads for them. I think I'll probably end up porting the intake and adapter (not myself- GTP). I have a 6.1 intake that I'm using ($450 is current market value - there's a few on ebay now actually). The 5.7 heads I have actually have larger runners than the 6.1 intake, so there is port matching that needs to be done on that end.
I'm going to be using a Frank Racing cam- don't know the exact specs. Prob 215/219 @.50, with .550 lift or something around there.
The combo I'm going to be running has run mid to low 11's in the 4000+ lb lx's.
I did some reading on the custom tanks- the guys on lateral-g.net have compained about the custom efi tanks ($899+ with all the added baffling) still not keeping the in tank pump covered in fuel. I researched the different solutions - in tank reservoir, in tank reservoir with trap doors, external reservoir, baffles in tank, sump added to tank, etc. From the reviews, I don't think baffles are enough alone (for my application, anyway). Baffles with a sump, maybe, or baffles with an in tank pump that pulls gas from other areas of the fuel tank to dump in your reservoir, maybe. It all got complicated and expensive, so I went with the $50 1/2" pickup and the $70 external reservoir.
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Uhcoog1,
Thanks for the tank info, would hate to spend 900.00 dollars for something that didn't work. Obviously the OEMs have figured out in-tank pumps, it looks like the aftermarket needs to do a bit more research.
Can you supply a link to your 70.00 dollar reservoir.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Thanks for the tank info, would hate to spend 900.00 dollars for something that didn't work. Obviously the OEMs have figured out in-tank pumps, it looks like the aftermarket needs to do a bit more research.
Can you supply a link to your 70.00 dollar reservoir.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Joe-
Here ya go:
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=119
It's on backorder until this week I think, so in a week or two I'll be able to tell you if we have any room to mount it! It holds 1 quart of fuel, which should be plenty. However, they say it's 10" long...
Here's an install:
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/FuelSystem.htm
And another:
http://classicbroncos.com/fuel_accumulator.shtml
And one more:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=95
The OEM tanks came up on the modified/custom tank discussions, and it's amazing what the OEM guys have done to make their tanks work like they do. BMW has some sort of jet pump that keeps the fuel pump side of the tank full. The ZR1 corvette has a pump inside the tank feeding into the in-tank accumulator. The Mustang has a return line that aims fuel at the in tank accumulator/sump/baffled area. To be honest, I did not research specific brands of custom tanks, I only looked at them as a group.
Here's a link for your own research:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/archive/index.php4/t-27332.html
I guess if my external accumulator has issues at some point, I might add a sump to my tank. I figured I'd start with the simplest solution (not taking the tank out, cutting, and welding), and go from there.
Here ya go:
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=119
It's on backorder until this week I think, so in a week or two I'll be able to tell you if we have any room to mount it! It holds 1 quart of fuel, which should be plenty. However, they say it's 10" long...
Here's an install:
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/FuelSystem.htm
And another:
http://classicbroncos.com/fuel_accumulator.shtml
And one more:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=95
The OEM tanks came up on the modified/custom tank discussions, and it's amazing what the OEM guys have done to make their tanks work like they do. BMW has some sort of jet pump that keeps the fuel pump side of the tank full. The ZR1 corvette has a pump inside the tank feeding into the in-tank accumulator. The Mustang has a return line that aims fuel at the in tank accumulator/sump/baffled area. To be honest, I did not research specific brands of custom tanks, I only looked at them as a group.
Here's a link for your own research:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/archive/index.php4/t-27332.html
I guess if my external accumulator has issues at some point, I might add a sump to my tank. I figured I'd start with the simplest solution (not taking the tank out, cutting, and welding), and go from there.
They also brought up the WIX part #33737 in that post - the 99-04 corvette fuel filter/regulator that you can get from Rock Auto for $36. Anyone have experience with this? What is the regulated fuel pressure?
Here's the details I've found so far on the in and out sizes:
5/16" is return.
Russell PN 640863 is 5/16" to 6AN (for return)
Russell PN 640853 is 3/8" to 6AN (for inlet)
Russell PN 640940 is for 6AN outlet
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1274927-corvette-filter-regulator.html
The LSx is a 58 psi motor, correct? Does anyone know if the fuel pressure is 58 psi with this filter regulator?
I'm also concerned with this only being 3/8" in/out. I guess there's always the option of running two of these to match the flow capacity of a 1/2" line.
Anyone know some good info on this filter/regulator?
Here's the details I've found so far on the in and out sizes:
5/16" is return.
Russell PN 640863 is 5/16" to 6AN (for return)
Russell PN 640853 is 3/8" to 6AN (for inlet)
Russell PN 640940 is for 6AN outlet
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1274927-corvette-filter-regulator.html
The LSx is a 58 psi motor, correct? Does anyone know if the fuel pressure is 58 psi with this filter regulator?
I'm also concerned with this only being 3/8" in/out. I guess there's always the option of running two of these to match the flow capacity of a 1/2" line.
Anyone know some good info on this filter/regulator?
- Joined
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The stock Hemi uses a 5/16 so the upgrade to 3/8 is just fine. The Hemi runs at 58 psi and that reg/filter is perfect for an install, ask me how I know? Also you can get this reg/filter just about anywhere in case of a breakdown.
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Uhcoog1,
Thanks for the links, very helpful.
Joe
Thanks for the links, very helpful.
Joe
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Well I've begun my Megasquirt build. I bought 8 BIP373s from DIYAutotune, and two Coil Board Drivers from Glenn's Garage, a little warning about Glenn's he's SLOW to ship, took me four months to get the boards. GRRR. But he did eventually ship.
List of materials
8- BIP373 from DIYAutotune
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/bosch-bip373-coil-driver-mod-kit-p-230.html
2- Coil Driver Boards from Glenn's Garage
http://www.glensgarage.com/catalog/wire-idle-valve-coil-driver-board-p-80.html
1- Project box from Marvac Electronics
1- DB9 Connector
18 AWG Wire
4- 4-40 1" Counter Sink Machine Screws
1/8" X 3/4 Aluminum Bar Stock to use as a heat sink.
From the Photos
First is the project box.
Second, is the project box's backside. I drilled four small holes to use to mount the boards and counter sunk the holes so the screw heads will fit flush.
Third, is ONE of the three heat sinks I made. The first acted mostly as a spacer. I placed it on the bottom of the project box to lift the lower board off the bottom to keep it from shorting out.
Fourth, is driver board assembled, if you look closely you can see the mica insulator underneath the BIP373.
Fifth, you can see the first board place in the box, the second board is simply sandwiched on top with an extra nut acting as a spacer.
Not show, I used a DB9 connector for the input. and fed the wires out of the box through a grommeted hole for the output to the coils.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
List of materials
8- BIP373 from DIYAutotune
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/bosch-bip373-coil-driver-mod-kit-p-230.html
2- Coil Driver Boards from Glenn's Garage
http://www.glensgarage.com/catalog/wire-idle-valve-coil-driver-board-p-80.html
1- Project box from Marvac Electronics
1- DB9 Connector
18 AWG Wire
4- 4-40 1" Counter Sink Machine Screws
1/8" X 3/4 Aluminum Bar Stock to use as a heat sink.
From the Photos
First is the project box.
Second, is the project box's backside. I drilled four small holes to use to mount the boards and counter sunk the holes so the screw heads will fit flush.
Third, is ONE of the three heat sinks I made. The first acted mostly as a spacer. I placed it on the bottom of the project box to lift the lower board off the bottom to keep it from shorting out.
Fourth, is driver board assembled, if you look closely you can see the mica insulator underneath the BIP373.
Fifth, you can see the first board place in the box, the second board is simply sandwiched on top with an extra nut acting as a spacer.
Not show, I used a DB9 connector for the input. and fed the wires out of the box through a grommeted hole for the output to the coils.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Here's a couple of more pics of the finished box. Including the DB9 input connector.
needsaresto
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Very cool! What is your total investment so far and your planned usage?
I'd like to go this route for my 451,along with a pair of throttle body injectors on some sort of dual quad or x ram intake. I already have one tb inj unit from a chev 350,plus another for the price of pulling a motor for a friend. Mega squirt seems like the low buck DIY alternative. Nothing else is going to fit my budget thats for sure!
I'd like to go this route for my 451,along with a pair of throttle body injectors on some sort of dual quad or x ram intake. I already have one tb inj unit from a chev 350,plus another for the price of pulling a motor for a friend. Mega squirt seems like the low buck DIY alternative. Nothing else is going to fit my budget thats for sure!
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
I haven't bought much so far.
85 mm Power Throttle body $100.00 off of Ebay
Spark Box was about $120.00
71.00 for the 8 BIP373
20.00 for the project box connectors and odds and ends
24.00 for the 2 driver boards.
I wanted to test my soldering skills on this small project first before committing to building my own ECM.
Even though megasquirt is a LOT cheaper than the alternatives, it still adds up over time.
For MS III which is WAY more expensive than MS I or MS II, I'll have over $1,000.00 into it by the time all is said and done.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
85 mm Power Throttle body $100.00 off of Ebay
Spark Box was about $120.00
71.00 for the 8 BIP373
20.00 for the project box connectors and odds and ends
24.00 for the 2 driver boards.
I wanted to test my soldering skills on this small project first before committing to building my own ECM.
Even though megasquirt is a LOT cheaper than the alternatives, it still adds up over time.
For MS III which is WAY more expensive than MS I or MS II, I'll have over $1,000.00 into it by the time all is said and done.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Redtruck-VA
Well-Known Member
Joe, I'm new here and interested in a parallel MSIII install on my 03 Ram street truck. Obviously you have a lot of skill and I'm sure this worked for you. Since this is an old thread can you give an update and lessens learned from what you did?
Thanks,
Thanks,
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Redtruck-VA,
Haven't finished my wiring or install yet. Got sidetracked with a different project, I am building a new garage and adding a bathroom to my home, so all car related stuff has taken a back seat.
Sorry I can't be more help.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Haven't finished my wiring or install yet. Got sidetracked with a different project, I am building a new garage and adding a bathroom to my home, so all car related stuff has taken a back seat.
Sorry I can't be more help.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
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