Meguiar's Wax

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ramcharger

ramcharger

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I've always been impressed by the finish given by this wax and or polish since i was a HS kid. I've had one or two cars/bikes that were worth a good waxing every 90 days since way back, lol.

Anyway, I have one machine worthy of waxing now and that is my bike. Yes, it's a '77 Kawaski KZ1000 early number frame pre-US made.

I had a local painter spray up the tailpiece, side covers and tank. It was not cheap but dam it man, I can't paint, lol.

Anyways, I just used Meguiar's Quick Detailer and Quick Wax twice on a dang near new paint job. The bike was painted in late Jan and Early Feb. I was told to let it "outgas and settle" for 90 days before I waxed it. Well, done as instructed and I did find a minor flaw or two and when I say "Minor" I mean 30 minutes of staring at the bike to find it.

Back to the point, has anyone ever heard bad of Meguiar products? Will waxing prevent the final "touch up"? From the painter? BTW, Iron Horse Magazine was supposed to be there for another bike, but not when I went to pick up my junk, lol!

So, back to the point. I was promised that after I badged and installed the tailpiece, side covers and tank that they would color sand and buff plus wax. Should I spend a Sat Morning getting this dealt with or just let it go. I should have brought it back months ago, does it really need color sanding?

Thank you all for your help. Like I said earlier, having any vehicle with nice paint is was way out of my league and any help for the bike would be appreciated. :)
 
what r you asking here?
"Back to the point, has anyone ever heard bad of Meguiar products? Will waxing prevent the final "touch up"? From the painter?"

YES I have heard of bad almost every product out there...my question is BAD HOW? what was BAD?

what is final touch up? are you talking about wet sanding and buffing? if yes the answer is no...waxing will not affect that since most decent painters/detailers use wax & grease remover before they wet sand and buff....otherwise you are sanding the wax into the paint.....

based on how your question was asked I think you have your answer
 
ooops you had more than ONE point....

"So, back to the point. I was promised that after I badged and installed the tailpiece, side covers and tank that they would color sand and buff plus wax. Should I spend a Sat Morning getting this dealt with or just let it go. I should have brought it back months ago, does it really need color sanding? "

MOST painters today use base clear meaning there is a colored base coat and a clear top coat......what the heck is COLOR SAND? WET SAND MAYBE? or WET SAND & WHEEL? and what are you spending a SAT doing? getting the paint fixed? or getting it wheeled out? try to focus when you ask a question, random is very hard to follow
if this is the question you are asking....first ask yourself is my paint to my liking? is it smooth enough? is it shiny enough? or is it full of orangepeel? if you are happy with the texture and sheen....leave it be
 
How does it look? Are you happy with it?

I will let you in on a secret...... EVERY paint job will have a flaw in it if you spend an excessive amount of time looking.

Wet sanding and buffing of the clear if far from mandatory. In fact, if the paint went on well and looks great, you shouldn't wet sand and buff.

In short...... If it looks great, don't mess with it.


And if I understand your question (not sure I do). Unless you have sanded on it yourself and left the painter with an unknown film thickness that he isn't willing to risk burning through, he can still wet sand and buff.

But this should have been done before the parts were put back on the bike, in my opinion.
 
66cuda said:
ooops you had more than ONE point....

try to focus when you ask a question, random is very hard to follow
if this is the question you are asking....first ask yourself is my paint to my liking? is it smooth enough? is it shiny enough? or is it full of orangepeel? if you are happy with the texture and sheen....leave it be
Click to expand...


My fault and I should have been more clear. It has a bit more orange peel than I would like although no one else has mentioned it. It certainly shines like crazy so no issues there.

What I was trying to say was:

A: Has anyone ever had issues with meguiars wax causing problems with their paint job over time.

B: Will waxing be an issue before the painters final detail. I believe the painter said he would do a final "Touch Up" after all the badging and parts were installed on the bike in case of scratches or fingerprints in the soft paint. It was very, very cold (below zero) when I picked up the tank, side covers and tailpiece.

1968FormulaS340 said:
How does it look? Are you happy with it?

I will let you in on a secret...... EVERY paint job will have a flaw in it if you spend an excessive amount of time looking.

Wet sanding and buffing of the clear if far from mandatory. In fact, if the paint went on well and looks great, you shouldn't wet sand and buff.

In short...... If it looks great, don't mess with it.


And if I understand your question (not sure I do). Unless you have sanded on it yourself and left the painter with an unknown film thickness that he isn't willing to risk burning through, he can still wet sand and buff.

But this should have been done before the parts were put back on the bike, in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Thank you '68Formula and you did answer a question I wasn't even sure I was asking (lol), and that is.... is there ever a "perfect" paint job? I found some flaws but really it was only during the one hour clean and wax session last night. I certainly did not do any sanding whatsoever. Paint is not my forte' and I'd be sure to screw it up.
 
A good wet-sand and buff will do wonders for a paint job.

Here are some pictures of my Honda Blackbird and my Kaw 500 after they were finished.
My son painted them, a week later I wet-sanded them and he did the final buff.
I used only 2000 grit paper and stopped as soon as the shine was gone.

P3297585.jpg


P3227537.jpg


P3227536.jpg


ORANGE.jpg


PA090518.jpg
 
yellowdartdave said:
A good wet-sand and buff will do wonders for a paint job.

Here are some pictures of my Honda Blackbird and my Kaw 500 after they were finished.
My son painted them, a week later I wet-sanded them and he did the final buff.
I used only 2000 grit paper and stopped as soon as the shine was gone.
Click to expand...

Beautiful!!!!! :thumblef:
 
ramcharger said:
Beautiful!!!!! :thumblef:
Click to expand...

Haay ramcharger!
You know I usually don't answer tech questions due to it always leading to my dismay, but, hey, it's for ramcharger!! AND it is in "General discussion" section, I feel I'm ok here!
How could I go wrong! LMAO!!!:shock:

Disclaimer, I am NOT a professional painter.:thumblef:

Ok cool...Here's my $.02 worth,
I have won a few shows with my driveway paint jobs. Most of them have not even been buffed or waxed!
Anyway, on old paint jobs or new ones after gasing a few weeks, you can "wet sand" with 1000, 2000, 4000 grits sand papers with water, then go through various buffing compounds, then on to hand glaze to remove swirls, then wax with a good carnuba.
Or
any of the above combos as needed! LOL!!:happy6:

Depending how well the painter "flowed" the paint onto the surface. I've shown lots of shows with fresh from the gun paint jobs. But I spray my paint on wet and thick just shy of running. That's just me, and I'm sure it aint right, but it's good enough for my hollar!

If you like it and it shines enough for you, wax it with mcgwires gold carnuba, LOVE IT!

The painter can always remove wax before wet sanding again. You can even wet sand years down the road to freshen up every 4 years or so, depending on paints used, ie clear coats, laquers, etc...
But, you do not want to wet sand murals, graphics, decals, gold or silver leaf, pinstripes....

Good Luck!
John:cool:
 
64dart170 said:
Haay ramcharger!
You know I usually don't answer tech questions due to it always leading to my dismay, but, hey, it's for ramcharger!! AND it is in "General discussion" section, I feel I'm ok here!
How could I go wrong! LMAO!!!:shock:

Disclaimer, I am NOT a professional painter.:thumblef:

Ok cool...Here's my $.02 worth,
I have won a few shows with my driveway paint jobs. Most of them have not even been buffed or waxed!
Anyway, on old paint jobs or new ones after gasing a few weeks, you can "wet sand" with 1000, 2000, 4000 grits sand papers with water, then go through various buffing compounds, then on to hand glaze to remove swirls, then wax with a good carnuba.
Or
any of the above combos as needed! LOL!!:happy6:

Depending how well the painter "flowed" the paint onto the surface. I've shown lots of shows with fresh from the gun paint jobs. But I spray my paint on wet and thick just shy of running. That's just me, and I'm sure it aint right, but it's good enough for my hollar!

If you like it and it shines enough for you, wax it with mcgwires gold carnuba, LOVE IT!

The painter can always remove wax before wet sanding again. You can even wet sand years down the road to freshen up every 4 years or so, depending on paints used, ie clear coats, laquers, etc...
But, you do not want to wet sand murals, graphics, decals, gold or silver leaf, pinstripes....

Good Luck!
John:cool:
Click to expand...

Thanks John for the input and thanks to everyone else that responded. :thumrigh:
 
If you think it shines know just wait till you see it sanded flat and buffed out
And if the flaw is a run in the clear coat
it will be gone when you pick up your '77 Kawaski KZ1000 Yes I was a painter and you will see a GIANT difference in your color :glasses2::glasses2::glasses2:
The wax will be removed with prep whip so it don't clog up the sand paper as he will water sand it then buff. There is a good example off what a sand and buff in Tony fields thread he started in his power tour and I have seen Meguiar's Wax in many shops being used. I say 5 star wax
:hello2:
 
ok i know this is A-BODYONLY,,but how bout a pic of the kaw..was riding with friends last week and good friend had one of his kaw's out..forgot how nice those bikes were...rember these words...1075kit,kirker,back cut gears,kicked swing arm.cut dn seat drag bars.500 shocks. ahhh the good old days...these paint guys need to see the paint lol good luck with her
 
memike said:
If you think it shines know just wait till you see it sanded flat and buffed out
And if the flaw is a run in the clear coat
it will be gone when you pick up your '77 Kawaski KZ1000 Yes I was a painter and you will see a GIANT difference in your color :glasses2::glasses2::glasses2:
The wax will be removed with prep whip so it don't clog up the sand paper as he will water sand it then buff. There is a good example off what a sand and buff in Tony fields thread he started in his power tour and I have seen Meguiar's Wax in many shops being used. I say 5 star wax
:hello2:
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike, I think I'll take it in this coming Saturday.

truckerlee379 said:
ok i know this is A-BODYONLY,,but how bout a pic of the kaw..was riding with friends last week and good friend had one of his kaw's out..forgot how nice those bikes were...rember these words...1075kit,kirker,back cut gears,kicked swing arm.cut dn seat drag bars.500 shocks. ahhh the good old days...these paint guys need to see the paint lol good luck with her
Click to expand...

Here's a thread with the bike in it. :thumrigh: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=145549
 
ramcharger said:
Thanks John for the input and thanks to everyone else that responded. :thumrigh:
Click to expand...

Just for reference, checkthis out;

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdHofsKFVmk&feature=relmfu"]YouTube - ‪Airbrushing - Buffing out the Clear Coat - airbrush‬‏[/ame]

See Ya!:glasses2:
 
Enjoy your Vacation time Joe :blob6:
You just wait and see :thumbrig:
That sweet machine will not look the same :thumbrig::thumbrig:
 
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