Mid 60s C-Body 8.75 axles... cant shorten them?!?

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greazerlou

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Hey everybody,
Does anyone know for sure if this true? I read something online about the mid 60's Truck/C-Body 8.75 axles not being able to be narrowed because they taper down as you get closer to the splines which ends up making them unuseable??? If you read carefully it says "many" mid-sixties Truck/C-Body 8.75s have these axles inside them... Has anyone on here actually shorted a C-Body 8.75 for their A-Body? My RB/727/8.75 donor car is a 66' New Yorker, are custom axles in my future or am I ok???

Below is where I read that info.


http://www.pdfmanual.net/chrysler-8-34-rear-axle-guide.html

Thanks!!!
 
If it`s written on the internet, it`s true, right? I imagine it`s true. One way to verify, pull one of your axles. I`m slooooowly narrowing a 72 Yorker rear and it has the full length diameter. Have fun:clock:
 
Moser told me that send them to them an they would do it for a 110$ shorten an respline i need it for the bolt pattern .... then got to looken at there site buy the time i ship to them an ship back an pay to have the work done ..... im better off buying a set ... they make 2 different strengths. i was looken at the ones 215$ b body brakes big bolt pattern but they make abody's brake drum size whole list ck it out i tryed the go to machine shop respline an cut but it takes the hardness out of axle make it worthless unless you live in a area where you can have them re harden ... then i look to redrill but my axles have to many hole in them ... why dont no that one either .... so im back in save mood till i get the money for the right ones
 
greazerlou said:
Hey everybody,
Does anyone know for sure if this true? I read something online about the mid 60's Truck/C-Body 8.75 axles not being able to be narrowed because they taper down as you get closer to the splines which ends up making them unuseable??? If you read carefully it says "many" mid-sixties Truck/C-Body 8.75s have these axles inside them... Has anyone on here actually shorted a C-Body 8.75 for their A-Body? My RB/727/8.75 donor car is a 66' New Yorker, are custom axles in my future or am I ok???

Below is where I read that info.


http://www.pdfmanual.net/chrysler-8-34-rear-axle-guide.html

Thanks!!!
Click to expand...

I've seen axles both ways. I had one set from a truck that were tapered and another set that was not. Big wagons usually are not tapered. You just have to check them every time. First measure the OD of the splines, then measure a little more than 28 inches from the outer flange. If it is at least the OD of the Spline OD you are good to go. You should not have to harden the new splines as the hardening on axles goes pretty deep. I had Moser do mine. I had someone local ruin a set of axles trying to respline them. So much for saving a few dollars. Pay the money and do it right. You won't be sorry.
 
I just looked this up the other day in an old article from Mopar Action as I'm planning on doing the same swap.Here's a list of what they found that usually works as long as they're not excessively undercut:

69 or 70: C-body wagon
71: any C-body or B-body wagon
72 or 73: any B-body wagon or any C-body
74: B-body wagons only

71-74 Dodge vans,100 or 200 series
72-74 Dodge D100 pickups


As a previous poster mentioned,make sure you've got a minimum of 28" from the back of the flange to where they start to narrow.
 
...............Dont run a drag radial or slick with resplinrd axles.......pay the money and get good 1s.........and no u need to harden the splines other wise there like butter.......kim...........
 
oldkimmer said:
...............Dont run a drag radial or slick with resplinrd axles.......pay the money and get good 1s.........and no u need to harden the splines other wise there like butter.......kim...........
Click to expand...
So Moser and the others will happily respline, take your money, and send you back butter junk? If this is true, what a friggen scam. Thought I remember asking about hardness and they said it would be ok? Makes you wonder if they would even run true after the hardening process?
 
no moser re-hardens them but figure all in shipping ,to, from ,work done which is less expensive........i mean to tell you im one of the cheapest sob's. i look an save parts horse trade but as far as axles go , i up the creek with out a paddle ... i.ve been going through this since the 70's but just love the abodys
 
Supposedly the case hardening extends down the axle into where the new splines are cut so there's still some strength there but cutting new splines into a case hardened shell won't be as good as the factory roll forged splines.
As a previous poster stated,they probably won't stand up to drag race starts with slicks but are likely fine for mild street cars on street tires.Personally I can't picture my 273 2bbl stripping splines off any kind of rearend never mind an 8 3/4.
 
67GTConvert said:
Supposedly the case hardening extends down the axle into where the new splines are cut so there's still some strength there but cutting new splines into a case hardened shell won't be as good as the factory roll forged splines.
As a previous poster stated,they probably won't stand up to drag race starts with slicks but are likely fine for mild street cars on street tires.Personally I can't picture my 273 2bbl stripping splines off any kind of rearend never mind an 8 3/4.
Click to expand...

Typical axle case hardening is .150 thick and 8 3/4 axle splines are about .050 deep, so the resplining should be in the hardened zone. But as 67GTConvert says, the factory roll forged splines are better. Supposedly Chrysler axles are made of 4140 steel with a typical yield strength of 106,000 psi. Like oldkimmer was saying, if you get racing axles, some go up to 210,000 psi yield strength. There are also disadvantages to running racing axles on the street. I'll leave that to someone else. I run on the street and am going to try resplined axles. Time will tell.
 
Dang this is a touchy one!!! I almost feel like slapping it in there full length and letting the wheels stick out the sides!

Heres my basic routine... 65 mile (round trip) commute to work 5 days a week PLUS thursday night fun runs @ my local track (1/8 mile) before I call it a day AND im running in a 6-race Bracket Series this year. All of this without a trailer too so its gotta be stout because if I break down, its tow truck time baby!!! I guess ill respline the axles if theyre not tapered and roll the dice and if theyre tapered, ill leave my small rear end in it and stay off the drag strip until I get the 8.75 situated.
 
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