Milled head and pushrods..

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JeffTheMarine

JeffTheMarine

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Looking to mill the head down .060 and to mill .020 off the top of the block of my slant to bump the compression up a decent amount. Now basic math would say .080 shorter pushrods would be needed. If so could someone point me in the direction on somewhere to buy them. I am not a big fan of Clifford since the son started running it and what not.


Appreciate the advice

Jeff
 
Don't need them. The adjusters in the rocker arms will take up that much difference.
 
JeffTheMarine said:
Looking to mill the head down .060 and to mill .020 off the top of the block of my slant to bump the compression up a decent amount. Now basic math would say .080 shorter pushrods would be needed. If so could someone point me in the direction on somewhere to buy them. I am not a big fan of Clifford since the son started running it and what not.


Appreciate the advice

Jeff
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And thats only a concern if the geometry was right in the 1st place, who knows maybe all the milling will fix it.lol

But really just gotta do it then check the geometry, wear pattern and actual lift at the valve.

After all the milling I did=.080 head/.020 block I still used stock PR's.
 
JeffTheMarine said:
Looking to mill the head down .060 and to mill .020 off the top of the block of my slant to bump the compression up a decent amount. Now basic math would say .080 shorter pushrods would be needed. If so could someone point me in the direction on somewhere to buy them. I am not a big fan of Clifford since the son started running it and what not.


Appreciate the advice

Jeff
Click to expand...

on a slant u can take .150 before having to worry about new pushrods. just make sure that u adj the spring pockets and valve guides down. im running a .510 cam and after machining and a 1.680 install height i was good to go! also on clifford i bought there manifold and its alright but the aussie manifold looks way better. dn't buy the cams from clifford, go erson talk to john
 
805moparkid said:
on a slant u can take .150 before having to worry about new pushrods. just make sure that u adj the spring pockets and valve guides down. im running a .510 cam and after machining and a 1.680 install height i was good to go! also on clifford i bought there manifold and its alright but the aussie manifold looks way better. dn't buy the cams from clifford, go erson talk to john
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Always MEASURE some slants you cant go .150 before you need new pushrods some you can go more.
John is no longer with Erson and they are out of slant 6 cam blanks and just FYI Engine Builder is out of OS valves.
Frank
 
66aCUDA said:
Always MEASURE some slants you cant go .150 before you need new pushrods some you can go more.
John is no longer with Erson and they are out of slant 6 cam blanks and just FYI Engine Builder is out of OS valves.
Frank
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oh no really? john was good at what he did and set me up with a great cam. well another ting u can do is call clifford and ask where they get there valves from 1.7/1.44. can't remember but its some where near the 805 where i used to live, SO-cal. don't know the price tho from them.
 
Yup John was GREAT to work with. Clifford got there valves from Engine Builder. Fiearra (sp) is still selling there valves on Ebag. I really like to use the Ford 300 valves BUT you need to be at least .060 over bore. You can have bad shrouding problems and/or need to bore notch if you dont.
Frank
 
66aCUDA said:
Yup John was GREAT to work with. Clifford got there valves from Engine Builder. Fiearra (sp) is still selling there valves on Ebag. I really like to use the Ford 300 valves BUT you need to be at least .060 over bore. You can have bad shrouding problems and/or need to bore notch if you dont.
Frank
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ford valves? what size are they? cuz i have .080 bore. and also when i called clifford they gave me a race shop in simi valley CA in the 805.
 
1.78/1.50 for the Ford valves. David ( Grumpscreature) says that engine builder has gotten a new supply for the 1.70/1.44 valves. So maybe things are looking up.
Frank
 
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